Car amp died

[DinohScene]

Neat~

I was also thinking of installing some LEDs in mine but scrapped the idea.
My current powercap already has 2 blue LED's that are pretty bright.
Including the voltage display that is wildly bounding between 14.1v and 10.7v xd

I'm really glad that I decided to get a more heavy duty one cause this would be a serious punishment on my cars battery.

 

[Sicklyboy]

I plan to hold off on getting a cap until I see how my car fares without one. Everything I can find on that cable I ordered points to it being ofc instead of cca which should help any dimming issues. Probably will use it to replace my alt cables and battery ground too, next is the cable to the distribution block.

Edit - I need to take a new picture for my avatar.

 

[DinohScene]

Powercap isn't needed but it's recommended.
Dashlights could flicker ;p

That + it'll help with feeding a steady current to the Amps.
Great if you want to play your music loudly over a longer period



I think you should leave yours the way it is.
I like it ;3

 

[Sicklyboy]

Picked up a 4 in 2 out toggle switch at Radioshack yesterday, it'll give me a very clean cut way of doing what I want to do. As long as it doesn't introduce much/any noise to the speaker (I really hope it doesn't), I'm gonna have the speaker leads in, and then depending on whether I want the 2 Ohm or 8 Ohm load, have the switch dictate what wiring scheme it outputs over (output the coils in parallel for the 2 ohm load, in a series for the 8 ohm one). Doing that should keep the sub from blowing if I ever need to take the second one out of my car (and I looked it up, sounds like running an 8 ohm load on a 4 ohm rated amp is supposed to be perfectly fine, you typically get a touch over half of what the 4 Ohm RMS rating is on the amp).

Picked up the paint, handles, a switch, and these two pvc cap sort of things that are gonna stick out on the outside of the ports (they're 5.7" round ports). Gotta pick up the pvc pipe still, probably tomorrow while my dad takes me to get the MDF (I need his pickup for it).

The half-order with the sub, ring terminals/spades, lightbulb, and grilles shipped. This is gonna be so awesome :3

 

[DinohScene]

As long as the amp doesn't heat up badly then it should indeed be fine.

Mine... heats up a lot ;p
Had a thermal shutdown 3 times so far iirc.

Might be due to the thing being modified + it has to drive both the speakers + sub.


Hmm
I have a vague idea of what you mean with the PVC pipes.
Btw what thickness MDF are you going to get?
I've took 18mm so that it'll have more strenght in the cut out sections of the speakers and sub.

 

[Sicklyboy]

18mm roughly equals 3/4" which is what I am getting. I'm gonna brace it with 3 1"x1"xwidth or height wooden rods for safetys sake. I gotta re-draw the blueprints for it tonight so I know exactly how I want it to be.

 

[DinohScene]

Metric system user over here xd

Adding wooden support struts is indeed not a bad idea.
It can never hurt to add them but don't stuff the compartments full with them xd
It'll have a negative impact on the total sound (although 1 centre rod won't make much of a difference)


Oh.
You're not lining the walls with absorbtion foam?

 

[Sicklyboy]

Nope no foam. And I worked the dimensions of the box to compensate for the extra support beams.

 

[DinohScene]

Hmm I've lined mine with foam (just the walls) to reduce the "woody" sound of it.

Aye sweet~

 

[Sicklyboy]

Sub amp and wipers shipped now too. Everything that shipped ought to be here around the 9th. Just waiting on the speaker amp, distribution block, and power wire.

I really hope that cadence wire is true OFC. Everything I've found says it is, but it's relatively cheap. Having OFC instead of CCA would be great.

 

[DinohScene]

Aye neat!

Hmm
As I have no experience with Amazon I also hope it for you.

 

[Sicklyboy]

I'm playing with the sub for my home theater setup in my bedroom, I just figured out how to remove the speaker grille a few days ago (thought it was glued on until I tried to pry it off, it was just held in place extremely well). Watching the excursion of the cone while I play my stereo really high and the sub turned all the way up. It's a little 8" sub in a Yamaha box (no idea who makes the sub), thing moves like hell, but I ran it so hard it actually overheated the amp in the sub enclosure and shut itself off XD

(I was afraid for a minute that I released the magic smoke D: )

 

[DinohScene]

AHAH sweet xd

Always fun to watch xd


Try blowing up a small speaker with it ;3

 

[Sicklyboy]

Time for some pics. I got three of my six shipments from Amazon today.



Kicker grille on a Crunch amp. #IdowhatIwant Those grilles are nice quality though, my only complaint is that Kicker screw holes are turned a bit more than standard speakers, so that cross in the center of the grille is turned oddly. Oh well.







Let's hope so.



They're a little smaller than I had expected, but they'll be just fine.



Switch I got from Radioshack. Really hoping this adds no noise into the speaker line.



Spades and ring terminals. Two of each.

Wipers and the LED lightbulb came too. Putting the wipers on tomorrow morning, using the bulb now, it's not as bright as I had hoped but it's still really neat.

 

[DinohScene]

Power from the gods LOL xd

Hifonics aren't bad so you got a pretty sweet Amp then ;]

Where are you going to place the switch?

 

[Sicklyboy]

I don't know how I pulled it off,but within a minute of waking up the idea of the switch popped into my head and I gave it some serious thought. Its a mono amp with two sets of outputs. If I wire each sub with the coils in a series but both amps connected,which is essentially in parallel but over two sets of interconnected outputs, I won't need the switch to drop a single sub down to an 8 ohm load. Gonna return it today.

 

[DinohScene]

Hmm I see.

To prevent loss of quality it's better to wire them up parallel to each other indeed.

 

[Sicklyboy]

I was planning on coils in parallel and subs in a series, originally.

Building it now. All of the fiber board is cut, probably gonna nail and glue it tomorrow.

I'm not gonna do the carry handles like I had said I would. I picked them up but I'm just gonna return them.

 

[DinohScene]

Sweet~

Bummer.
I got 2 handles from old worthless speakerrigs you can get at any audioshop xd
Just screwed them off since the speakers where useless anyway.

I have to say that it's better then carrying a 20 KG speakerrig without them xd
Or maybe more the 20 KG idk.. it's heavy I know that xd

 

[Sicklyboy]

First box is together. Sitting in the shed, glued and nailed, clamped for compression while it dries. Have some spaces I'll need to fill with glue/ sawdust+glue because I am horrible at cutting (it was my first time using the circular saw, don't laugh ) and some edges I'll have to shave down with the hand planer a bit as well.

Second box going together in the next few days.

Gotta paint them and put the PVC pipe for the port in.

Decided I'll still use the handles.

Pioneer speaker amp came in today. Installed it, something sounds off. It doesn't like bass at all on my speakers, and its RMS rating is higher than my speakers (Only by about 10w). I suppose it won't make a difference when I get the subs in, but... man, it sounds like crap compared to that Lanzar piece of crap. Only thing I can think of is that on this amp, since it's a bridageable sub or a speaker amp, each channel has a switch allowing you to choose between LPF, HPF, or Full Range. The Lanzar amp specifically designated a HPF to the speaker channels. I have both the front and rear set to Full Range and I'm controlling the frequencies with my in-dash EQ. I suppose it's possible that any song with bass might have notes too low for the speakers to handle, so they get distorted, but enabling the HPF and filtering out the lower notes may fix it. I'll play with it tomorrow, but for now I'm just happy to have music back.

Opened the Pioneer amp (no warranty stickers), very pleased with the internal construction as opposed to the Lanzar one.

Here's the kicker to the whole situation - I, for some brilliant reason, decided to not realize until now that my current in-line fuse wouldn't be nearly strong enough to power both amps (it's an 80a glass tube fuse). Sooo... I had to order a 200a ANL fuse + a holder off of Amazon, and to take my order to $25 for the free shipping (I would have been paying $15 in shipping anyway + $10 for the items) I ordered a 12 pack (6 pair) of speaker wire spades as well. They're very nice looking.

Lights dim when I turn this up a lot (while bass distorts). Never did with the Lanzar. Either it's improperly set or it is illogicaly more powerful. I'll look into upgrading all of my power cables to the amp/distro block when it comes in, battery -> engine, and alternator cables. That Cadence wire IS supposed to be pure OFC... I'll probably need some more if I'm gonna do the big 3, then I'll start looking into a power cap. May just go with that 10F one I had linked in the beginning "because why the fuck not?".

Was a little amused at the fact that the remote for the Hifonics amp uses RJ45 wire, the Lanzar used a measly RJ15 lol.

(Ok, long post is done).