Car amp died

Sicklyboy

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I'm toying with some options right now. I'm looking at this Rockford Fosgate dual 12" + box setup on amazon. As far as another amp, I'm not sure what I should get.

Anyone have any recommendations on any front? I need new subs (I want to go with dual 12s) and a box (not sure whether I should go ported/vented or not), a cap, and a power distribution block.
 

DinohScene

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If you make a dual sub box then place a bassport in both compartments.
As for the amp, yeah you know my answer ;p
Rockford Fosgate ftw.

That or get an Xplod amp if you get 2 Xplod subs.
As for a powercap.
Any one will do, rule of thumb is 1F per 1000 watts


Personally I think you should get the dual RF box.
If money allows it.
 

jimmyemunoz

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It sounds like your on a low budget, so definitely look into Kicker CompVR subs. Their decent subs. I have 3 15" Kicker Solobarics but before that a while ago I rocked Kicker CompVR 12's. They are a great budget speaker.
 

Sicklyboy

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@[member='DinohScene'], @[member='Suprgamr232'], I just got together what I think I want on Amazon.

http://amzn.com/w/19SFVEC8DD0Z5

Thoughts?

Also, only going with a 10F cap because the price isn't that bad on it, but it also has 4 terminals instead of 2 (not that I'm REALLY gonna need 10F, lol). I think it would be better to have both amps behind a cap instead of just the sub, given the possibility. What do you think?

Edit - Also, I think I'm gonna run a small 40mm fan into my Lanzar amp soon, probably run it off of the remote lead, just to keep everything nice and cool.
 

DinohScene

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10F is really overkill xd
But it can't hurt of course.
Anyway be extremely careful with it cause it'll surge power from your battery like fuck.
So you might want to install a heavier alternator.


Anyway the rest seems pretty fine!
A 2F cap would suffice for the Amp+ subs.

Just hook the + from the battery to the + of the cap and the + of the cap to the amp, same with negative and you might need to split your remote (if it's a cap with remote)
This will prevent power surges in the battery and flickering dashlights.
 

Sicklyboy

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Alright, if I go with a smaller cap, should I put it in front of the distribution block so it can run to both amps, or should I put it behind the block and in front of the Sony amp only?

Also, I just found a good vid on youtube on what the Rockford P1's can do.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHycKytyosE&hd=1

HOLY. SHIT.
 

DinohScene

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That's pretty much what my rig also does xd
Only slightly worse xd

Erm.

You should hook the cap up in parallel (with a short distance to the amp)
Ideally it's Battery (+) ---------- cap (+) -- Amp (+) then Amp (-) --- cap(-) -------- central GND point/battery (-)

But yes you can split the + and - wires from the cap to 2 amps or more (just take 1F per amp)
 
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DinohScene

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Not bad.
Pretty cheap to.

However since this is a paper cone sub, you should be a little bit more careful with them.

They tend to break quicker then plastic/alu ones.
 

Sicklyboy

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I'm just buying it as something temporary until I can get the Rockford Fosgate stuff. The lanzar is fairly low powered, even wiring the sub as a 2 ohm load I shouldn't be over driving it. I - may- run it in conjunction with the RF stuff when I get it. Probably not though.

Can't wait to see how a DVC sub works over a SVC one.

In other words, if it breaks after a while, it was cheap enough.
 

Sicklyboy

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Welp. That Rockford Fosgate box is out of stock, unavailable, and most likely discontinued. And I'm not surprised, those were the P1s, and the P3s have been out for a while. That set was from 2009.

Sooooo... Now I'm looking at two of these :creep:

http://www.amazon.co...s=kicker+square

Edit - I have to do some serious planning to see if my car can handle both amps. I'll probably be getting this amp for the sub(s). I'll upgrade all of my wiring to 1/0 AWG as well because I have a feeling I'm gonna need it... I realllllly don't want to have to put in a high output alt.
 

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