Hardware Switch not charging (new port fitted)

neo1607 · Mar 15, 2019

I'm sure this has been asked a million times but I've changed a faulty charge port on my switch, but it is still not charging

M92T36 seems fine, it's 5v on pin 5 and I've checked all caps around it for shorts. Also checked for shorts near BQ24193 and I can't find any obvious shorts there

I plug the charger in and I can measure 5v and 3.3v at various points around the board. It just doesn't seem to charge the actual battery. The switch still does turn on and everything under battery power

Could P13USB be the fault? Although I thought that was also tied to the video chip so if that's faulty then surely there wouldn't be any display?

Just looking for whatever else I could check as I don't want to go ordering all 3 chips if It turns out to be something obvious

The Real Jdbye · Mar 15, 2019

neo1607 said:
I'm sure this has been asked a million times but I've changed a faulty charge port on my switch, but it is still not charging

M92T36 seems fine, it's 5v on pin 5 and I've checked all caps around it for shorts. Also checked for shorts near BQ24193 and I can't find any obvious shorts there

I plug the charger in and I can measure 5v and 3.3v at various points around the board. It just doesn't seem to charge the actual battery. The switch still does turn on and everything under battery power

Could P13USB be the fault? Although I thought that was also tied to the video chip so if that's faulty then surely there wouldn't be any display?

Just looking for whatever else I could check as I don't want to go ordering all 3 chips if It turns out to be something obvious

Have you tried flipping the cable around?
Keep in mind the USB-C connector has 2 rows of pins, one of them being very hard to get soldered on correctly because it's hidden underneath the port.

neo1607 · Mar 15, 2019

The Real Jdbye said:
Have you tried flipping the cable around?
Keep in mind the USB-C connector has 2 rows of pins, one of them being very hard to get soldered on correctly because it's hidden underneath the port.

Yeah tried flipping the cable around. I'm 99% sure all the pins are soldered down correctly. So I'm putting it down to a faulty IC rather than the charging port

FanboyKilla · Mar 16, 2019

Are you able to power the Switch on with the battery disconnected and ONLY the USB Cable connected to power?

neo1607 · Mar 16, 2019

FanboyKilla said:
Are you able to power the Switch on with the battery disconnected and ONLY the USB Cable connected to power?

No it doesn't power on. It's not drawing any amps when plugged in to a USB meter, voltage is definitely going to the board though and no shorts anywhere that I can find

FanboyKilla · Mar 16, 2019

I'm just concerned that not ALL of the pins are making contact. I know that second row of pins is tucked in there pretty good making it a little harder to see and for heat to transfer thru. Have you tried reflowing it again to help see if maybe some of those pins need to be reseated?

neo1607 · Mar 16, 2019

I will give it a try. Hopefully can get it off again without burning up the port

FanboyKilla · Mar 16, 2019

Yeah those bottom pins are tricky. It's really just a 'cross your fingers and hope for the best' kinda thing. I would say ~700° F should be plenty of heat. Hopefully you've got some Kapton Tape to block off the surrounding components.

neo1607 · Mar 17, 2019

FanboyKilla said:
Yeah those bottom pins are tricky. It's really just a 'cross your fingers and hope for the best' kinda thing. I would say ~700° F should be plenty of heat. Hopefully you've got some Kapton Tape to block off the surrounding components.

Yeah that's how I put it on in the first place I heated it from underneath to melt the solder and then just dropped it on, it is just a tiny fraction sitting to the right although all the top pins line up fine so assumed the underneath pins would be the same

mattytrog · Mar 17, 2019

400 degrees from the underside, keep the heat on it... Just until correctly lined up

Use a tip of a screwdriver to put into the screw holes, so you can be sure it is lined up.

You need to remember, the port itself can take around 200 degrees of heat before it starts toasting.

So you can afford to keep the heat there after dobbing it on, just for a few seconds. Should give you enough working time.

put plenty of flux (no-clean, paste if possible) on the port before dobbing it on.

Occasionally, the port needs "working" a few times (ie plugging and unplugging) as (some of the ching chong ones) they can develop a slight oxide layer on the pins, making you have a poor connection to the lead.

neo1607 · Mar 17, 2019

With that first port I bent the pins down slightly before I put it on so they had better contact with the board, is that advisable or not? I normally do it with micro USB ports and HDMI ports but wasn't sure if the same needed done with a switch port

mattytrog · Mar 17, 2019

neo1607 said:
With that first port I bent the pins down slightly before I put it on so they had better contact with the board, is that advisable or not? I normally do it with micro USB ports and HDMI ports but wasn't sure if the same needed done with a switch port

Yeah. You just need to make sure the copper on the new port isn`t tarnished.
I normally go over the pins to be soldered with a fiberglass pen or a very sharp blade, "brushing" outwards.

Then plenty of no-clean "fux" - not a typo.

neo1607 · Mar 17, 2019

2 reflows later to get it 100% into position and it's charging fine now. Drawing a steady 1.44A on my meter.

Just shows that you need to double check and then double check again that the port is 100% down perfectly

FanboyKilla · Mar 19, 2019

I knew it! Glad you got it handled now instead of chasing your tail around trying to fix other things that aren't broken.

neo1607 · Mar 21, 2019

The guy I fixed it for is saying it's kinda hit or miss with charger. It's perfect one way but the other way round it can be a bit temperamental, might need to give it another quick reflow just to make it solid

Hardware Switch not charging (new port fitted)

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