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Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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UPDATE: I got error CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check
mosfet) im doing research to validate the value of the points and discard using another flex cable the good thing its still boot on ofw
 
Hello, I need some help with an LED mod for the Switch Lite. I’ve installed a Picofly and replaced the OEM LED on the Home button with a WS2812B 2020 LED. As I understand it, I need to solder a wire from the data line to the LED. However, I didn’t check beforehand that the Picofly I’m using lacks a dedicated data solder pad. Where can I tap into the data line now, and is this even the correct approach?
 

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Last edited by needhelpoc,
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needhelpoc said:
Hello, I need some help with an LED mod for the Switch Lite. I’ve installed a Picofly and replaced the OEM LED on the Home button with a WS2812B 2020 LED. As I understand it, I need to solder a wire from the data line to the LED. However, I didn’t check beforehand that the Picofly I’m using lacks a dedicated data solder pad. Where can I tap into the data line now, and is this even the correct approach?
Click to expand...
There various models of the picofly board but the main idea is the remove the led from the board and connect a wire to the pad of the led.
With a multimeter you should be able to find the VCC/GND and with that the orientation of the LED to figure out the DI pin.
The DO pin is not used afaik.
Technically you would keep the LED on the board and connect a wire to the DI pin of the led to your new led.
But the LED wires are very fine.

Takezo-San

Hacking Hardware  Post in thread 'Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip'

Thanks @mviper28 and we were on the same wave length. Looked back at @vulp_vibes post about the LED mod with the XIao chip. Had one lying around and swapped it out instead. Better fit too. Thanks anyway and it works flawless. Not sure why the guide way didn't work with the RP2040.

20240718_141051.jpg
20240718_141118.jpg
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thesjaakspoiler said:
Es gibt verschiedene Modelle der Picofly-Platine, aber die Grundidee ist, die LED von der Platine zu entfernen und einen Draht an den Anschluss der LED anzuschließen.
Mit einem Multimeter sollten Sie VCC/GND und damit die Ausrichtung der LED finden können, um den DI-Pin zu ermitteln.
Soweit ich weiß, wird der DO-Pin nicht verwendet.
Technisch gesehen würde man die LED auf der Platine belassen und einen Draht vom DI-Pin der LED zur neuen LED verbinden.
Die LED-Drähte sind aber sehr fein.

Takezo-San

Hacking Hardware  Post in thread 'Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip'

Thanks @mviper28 and we were on the same wave length. Looked back at @vulp_vibes post about the LED mod with the XIao chip. Had one lying around and swapped it out instead. Better fit too. Thanks anyway and it works flawless. Not sure why the guide way didn't work with the RP2040.

20240718_141051.jpg
20240718_141118.jpg
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Click to expand...

Hello, thanks for the reply. I asked ChatGPT about this a while back, and as I recall, it mentioned that there’s no reliable way to determine which pin is which on a WS2812B 2020 LED. I didn’t know the manufacturer, so I compared various datasheets. Mine has a green mark—and I’ve since noticed that the LED on the Picofly board has one, too. It’s also fairly clear where the connection should be made; furthermore, the only visible circuit trace leads from the RP chip to the DIN pin. I have one final question: I can see from your photo that you used this method, but how does it work—soldering the LED’s DIN pin to the bottom solder pad of the original (OEM) LED? Is there anything else that needs to be done, or is there some other factor involved? Also, can I simply run a wire from the DIN pin of the Picofly LED to the replacement LED near the Home button, without having to desolder the Picofly LED itself?
 
Having this issue on switch lite with the 3 in 1 chip. After it has been installed, and I turn it on, I see it is glitching correctly and the hekate screen loads but shortly after the screen fades away. The screen itself LCD remains powered on but now black at this point. As sometimes I will get the rasberry pi screen, hekate screen, or actual hekate menu.. I don't think it is the lcd flex cable itself. The light code on the chip is blue, followed by white.

When I disconnect the chip, I get a completely black screen but I can hear the menus so it's loading into the OFW

Any last suggestions beside trying to reseat the LCD flex cable? I am probably going to throw it on ebay as is but figure I'd check here for any last suggestions
 
Last edited by ultracamp,
needhelpoc said:
Hello, thanks for the reply. I asked ChatGPT about this a while back, and as I recall, it mentioned that there’s no reliable way to determine which pin is which on a WS2812B 2020 LED. I didn’t know the manufacturer, so I compared various datasheets. Mine has a green mark—and I’ve since noticed that the LED on the Picofly board has one, too. It’s also fairly clear where the connection should be made; furthermore, the only visible circuit trace leads from the RP chip to the DIN pin. I have one final question: I can see from your photo that you used this method, but how does it work—soldering the LED’s DIN pin to the bottom solder pad of the original (OEM) LED? Is there anything else that needs to be done, or is there some other factor involved? Also, can I simply run a wire from the DIN pin of the Picofly LED to the replacement LED near the Home button, without having to desolder the Picofly LED itself?
Click to expand...
You can find more details here about what those users were doing.
Maybe there is more info here on the forum.
Note that the users removed the original white led and are using 2 of the pads (VCC and DI) to attach it to the mainboard.
That extra wire is connected to the GND I think.
The DI signal from the raspberry pi is connected after the resistor so it won't interfere with the original signal.
But I don't know if the led will light up white under normal circumstances. I assume not.
This is the before picture :
1792925092847.png


Technically you can leave the led on the picofly and connect the DI pas to another WS2812B led.
Both will take in the signal and display the same color.
 
thesjaakspoiler said:
Hier finden Sie weitere Details darüber, was diese Nutzer getan haben.
Vielleicht gibt es hier im Forum weitere Informationen.
Beachten Sie, dass die Benutzer die originale weiße LED entfernt haben und nun 2 der Lötpads (VCC und DI) verwenden, um sie an die Hauptplatine anzuschließen.
Ich glaube, dass dieser zusätzliche Draht mit Masse (GND) verbunden ist.
Das DI-Signal vom Raspberry Pi ist hinter dem Widerstand angeschlossen, damit es das ursprüngliche Signal nicht stört.
Ich weiß aber nicht, ob die LED unter normalen Umständen weiß leuchtet. Ich nehme an, nicht.
Dies ist das Vorher-Bild:
View attachment 598602

Theoretisch können Sie die LED am Picofly lassen und den DI-Pins mit einer anderen WS2812B-LED verbinden.
Beide empfangen das Signal und zeigen die gleiche Farbe an.
Click to expand...
Post automatically merged:

I will try 👍
 
what kind of error y got with the hwfly after boot with no sd card insert show no sd card but after the sd card i got an error with that screen anyone have this isue
 

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