Bought a ps4 that was constantly bootlooping into safe mode even when installing the recovery firmware. I just tore a little the power button from the inside and voila: I have a 9.00 ps4 in 2026 .
Still, I have to clean it from inside and replace the power button but it works well as is now
I got a 9.00 FAT one ages ago from a friend, it had a faulty hard drive, I just put a new one in and installed the 9.00 firmware and voilla - then I sold it. The very next day my friend gave me a slim one for free on 5.50 firmware. It's still getting used regularly.
Virgins, I love'um... picked this beauty up at pawn for next to nothing. Kinect, 4 controllers, dual charge station *cha-ching*
Might throw another giveaway with this 4GB Trinity
Damn that means you got ten years on me. Though with everything I was raised with, I think we’re even as far as culture and things go. Lots of us 80’s-early 90’s kids grew up with the same things as 70’s kids. Same shows, same movies, same music, even same games at times.
Picked up a second-hand Switch w/ crap Bluetooth and Wi-Fi signals. Joy-Cons wouldn't stay synced unless they were practically touching the thing. Ended up DIY-ing a full antenna swap and chipped it while I was under the hood. Now it's my go-to console. The games are honestly pretty chill and a great way to unwind. And please, spare me the 'Nintendo is for kids' talk—I’m hitting the big 5-0 this year! LOL
Damn that means you got ten years on me. Though with everything I was raised with, I think we’re even as far as culture and things go. Lots of us 80’s-early 90’s kids grew up with the same things as 70’s kids. Same shows, same movies, same music, even same games at times.
I bought this PS2 HDD adapter from Wills Console Mods, whom I met in person. This thing has been lying around in my parts bin for a couple of years because I didn't have any IDE hard drives and wouldn't think it would suit my purpose of playing games from one. Until I recently ordered BitFunx's SATA adapter conversion kit.
Honestly, trying to get this to fit nice and flush was difficult; for one, it needed to be pushed slightly upwards for the metal shielding to go over without scuffing up the connector. At least they added a nice dust cover to the connector to prevent it from damage.
I like having the ability to lounge with my arms wherever, which joycon (like the Wiimote+nunchuk) let you do, but pro controllers don't. But I also prefer having four back buttons like the GuliKit KK3 Max, so I can e.g. work menus (A & B) / run and jump in Zelda (B & X) / cycle through arts in Xenoblade (d-pad) without moving either thumb off the sticks. There are fatjoycon with four back buttons - the EasySMX S15 - but they don't have HD rumble or the build quality of the MobaPad M6 HD. But actually, joycon already have extra buttons - SL & SR - if you are able to reach them. Which you might with regular joycon but not fatjoycon.
I have previously jury-rigged some Xbox Elite paddles-on-paddles to press these buttons, but they didn't wrap far enough round towards the back of the controller. My solution was to buy a length of plastic box-girder from the model-railway department of my local bike/fabric/toy/hardware store. I had originally planned to hot-bend it, but to get such sharp corners without crushing the tube, I needed to take a bite out of the inside. I was also not sure how strong the final bend would be, as pressing the end would flex the cut parts away from each other. So I added some folded wire to hold the bends in place, and didn't bother getting out my temperature-controlled soldering iron.
The sawn-off 'wrist strap attachments' let me charge the controllers using a USB cable without removing the paddles, add a spring that makes the activation of the buttons clearer and gives me somewhere to attach the wire axle without damaging the controllers themselves. This axle wraps around the attachment and clips into the screw holes. The elastics are probably not needed any more as they were with the Xbox paddles.
I am probably going to add to this - either adding a piece on top of the existing back buttons so the pair on each side sit level with each other, or adding a new upper pair in the same way as my current mod. This would have disadvantage of needing a sideways bend as well - I think the most natural location would be just above the existing back buttons, about level with the midpoint of SL & SR. But it's easy to remap SL & SR in System Settings, whereas getting an A button on the left back button involved:
stick-click (which I can assign the back button to using the MobaPad app) = A
select (which is awkward to reach past the stick) = stick-click (needed rarely but enough that I don't want to lose it entirely)
screenshot (which I never intentionally use) = select
It's been a busy week, since I can finally walk again somewhat normally so let's see:
-Fixed the vacuum by 3D modeling/printing a new part for the head.
-Replaced the polarizer on my Gamecube screen (It started looking weirdly burned, and when I opened it up it smelled rather vinegary).
-RGHd two Xbox 360s (a Jasper with RGH1.2, and a Trinity with RGH3), and I have to say that the Trinity was far less stress inducing than the Jasper due to the PLL point location (the Jasper has a lot of very small components nearby while the Trinity has far less in its vicinity).
-Somehow managed to repair the connector pads for one of the eyes on my Virtual Boy (there were about ten torn pads there an I was sure it wouldn't work, but somehow it does). To be honest, while the soldering doesn't necessarily look all that pretty, this is the one I'm most proud of.
the connector:
Like I said, it's not the prettiest (although a lot of the black stuff is singed nail polish rather than flux/burnmarks in order to give it a little more strength) but it does work.
It's been a busy week, since I can finally walk again somewhat normally so let's see:
-Fixed the vacuum by 3D modeling/printing a new part for the head.
-Replaced the polarizer on my Gamecube screen (It started looking weirdly burned, and when I opened it up it smelled rather vinegary).
-RGHd two Xbox 360s (a Jasper with RGH1.2, and a Trinity with RGH3), and I have to say that the Trinity was far less stress inducing than the Jasper due to the PLL point location (the Jasper has a lot of very small components nearby while the Trinity has far less in its vicinity).
-Somehow managed to repair the connector pads for one of the eyes on my Virtual Boy (there were about ten torn pads there an I was sure it wouldn't work, but somehow it does). To be honest, while the soldering doesn't necessarily look all that pretty, this is the one I'm most proud of.
the connector:
View attachment 573315
Like I said, it's not the prettiest (although a lot of the black stuff is singed nail polish rather than flux/burnmarks in order to give it a little more strength) but it does work.
Heh, thanks. While I've done some soldering on tiny points before (and even some trace repairs), the last time that I came across something that needed this much repair (10 pads needed replacements as well as several traces) I binned the thing so I'm pleased as punch that this actually worked out.
Found this XBox Stellar Shift controller in broken state. The left stick wasn't working at all, felt "floppy" and practically no response at all. Opened the controller and found out that the potentiometer axle wasn't connected to the stick at all - both were undamaged though. Easy fix - opened up the controller, put the stick into place and closed the sucker.
Just left me wondering if the controller had left the factory in broken state, as there was no sign of damage nor tampering and for some reason the previous owner didn't need to return this when getting a replacement - go figure As can be seen in the picture, the controller is practically mint.
Anyways a nice addition to my controller collection.
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