Things you have fixed/modded recently

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Created a cleaner, smaller, wiring harness for the light assembly on my ebike.

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Tested good (with ohm meter) and should work. Now, I just need to install it. This will make future mods easier. The wiring was a total rats nest, but I’ve done some cleaning up already. It would take about 30-40 minutes to close my bike up, because I’d have to shove 10 pounds of shit into a 5 pound bag.
 
I’m on an Electric Transportation kick. I really like my bike, but I found this on the side of the freeway. Yes, freeway. My co-workers were laughing (I would too), my wife just shook her head and said “whatever makes you happy.” Lol.

It was missing the right handlebar, so I snagged one from an old bike that the kids have outgrown. I got it working!!

This thing does about 15mph and I overvolted the motor. It runs on a 36v 8ah SLA battery arrangement. I just need to address the horrible throttle linkage.
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It won’t win any beauty contests, but it’s a fun project.

My co-worker just dropped off an old ebike that im going to try to get running. I think I may have found my job for after I retire from my “current” (trying to pun) job.

Lots of the bike shops, in my area, won’t/can’t work on the electrical components. Perhaps I can fill that gap. I’m learning lots and it’s fun!
 
So, my buddy dropped off an ebike. He thinks I can fix it. It’s 25 years old. It’s missing batteries. Here it is below….

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I busted out some SLA batteries and wired them up and beep beep, it turned on. Just the throttle didn’t engage the motor. I found out that the brake sensors were stuck closed, they are Normal Open. I cleaned them up and realigned them. BOOM! It works now. Brakes disengage the motor. They don’t get stuck. The pedal assist doesn’t work. I’m going to continue troubleshooting this in the morning. Ahh yes, morning. Wake and bake, get coffee. Fat waffles. Mmmm


Interesting fact about this bike. It was designed by Lee Iacocca. He designed the mustang. This bike was sold at Chrysler dealerships in the late 90’s.
 
Yes. YES! Breathe new life into old parts.
I just needed a shitty gameboy to test if cartridge flashings work when I make ROM hacks and homebrew. This one can just sit on my desk, and I won't care if it gets knocked around.
 
On my daily ebike rider, I fixed an open on that little white wire from my controller to my motor. It’s the wire that manages the speed and motor temperature. My speedometer reads consistently and the motor temp now works!
 
Last edited by slaphappygamer,
Back buttons for the Wii U Gamepad

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I have used my Xbox Elite controller as a Pro Controller mostly for the paddles on the back so I can keep my thumb on the right control stick, and navigate menus with my dominant left hand. Having them mapped to A & B on the left and X & Y on the right also lets me sprint and jump at the same time in BotW. But it's a pain to set up, and a pain to change which adapter is attached (Brook Super Converter for Wii U, Brook Xone for Switch), especially as the Xone replaces the battery door and is quite stiff to attach/remove.

The Gamepad has flexible circuit boards for ABXY+-RZr and dpadLZz, and soldering to these would probably melt the plastic backing. So I've soldered wires to the test points on the motherboard:
ABXY test points.jpeg


I would also be interested in adding d-pad directions for use with Xenoblade Chronicles X, but there is no similar cluster of test points at the other end of the board : (. I have tested all hundred-odd test points against the ribbon cable sockets on each side, but I've only been able to identify a bunch of common-ground connections.

As the Wii U was not very popular, controller modders have mostly not studied it, so AcidMods doesn't have pinouts the way they do for Xbox controllers. The main hardware mod seems to be removing motherboard to build a Raspberry Pi portable, retaining the button connections. Sudomods therefore have details of the ribbon cable connections, so I was able to trace the face buttons's test points.
 
I really love back buttons. The Binbok joycon have insufficient back buttons. Joycon have extra buttons I don't really use - SL & SR. Maybe I can use them as back buttons, with the help of the system remapping?
Binbok paddles.jpg

I use the short paddles from the PowerA component kit on my Elite controller, so the stock MS longer ones are available for some hardware hacking. The pivot point is a piece of wire, folded over at the top and hooking into the screw recess above the release button and just bent round the bottom of the wrist-strap mount.
I think this will work better than trying to use them without the mount, as SL and SR are flush with the joycon rail and don't press easily with the flat paddles, whereas the mount raises the buttons.
Update:
Disassembled and jiggled the spring in the right strap mount as the grey button didn't lock properly and it slid up in use;
Extended the paddles (using the two PowerA ones and two Bionik ones not attached to my Elite controller) so I can actually reach them with my hands in a natural position.
Added more thread to support the glue dots holding the second set of paddles onto the first.
 

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Last edited by emcintosh,
Most recent I tried modding, was an attempt of adding tactile buttons to Binbok Joycons. Sadly I didn't have some that just feel right, so for now I just tinned the pads again and once I have more time I will try it again.

What I repaired was a PS1 controller, while I was cleaning and opening it (no idea if it was already broken or not) I saw that a litte bit of the pcb was broken of, where it connected one of the rumble motors to I believe it was power, so I had to solder some cables in which gladly worked out.
 
Doing a double open-heart (HDD) surgery on two old Roland VS-880EX multitrack systems the other night. I had been getting "drive not detected" errors on my old system, and my brother gave me his. His worked a few times, then the same issues. He also hadn't used his in a long time. Mine, I hadn't used in probably 15 years. I ordered a comparable HDD off eBay, threw it into his system, and though it recognized the drive at first, it wouldn't initialize. So, I had waited 'til I had some free time to take them both apart and confirm that I had the adapter pins connected properly. They were...

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So, another drive from a different eBay seller arrived yesterday. Gonna make a last-ditch effort next time I have more free time to try for a positive result.
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Doing a double open-heart (HDD) surgery on two old Roland VS-880EX multitrack systems the other night. I had been getting "drive not detected" errors on my old system, and my brother gave me his. His worked a few times, then the same issues. He also hadn't used his in a long time. Mine, I hadn't used in probably 15 years. I ordered a comparable HDD off eBay, threw it into his system, and though it recognized the drive at first, it wouldn't initialize. So, I had waited 'til I had some free time to take them both apart and confirm that I had the adapter pins connected properly. They were...

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So, another drive from a different eBay seller arrived yesterday. Gonna make a last-ditch effort next time I have more free time to try for a positive result.
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The new HDD arrived the day before yesterday. I had some time yesterday to work through the install. Powered her on, and...

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It took several hours (had to leave it on to do its thing overnight), but she successfully processed through all the initialization and testing procedures, and was asking for a restart this morning. I just successfully executed the shut-down procedure. Looks like I've got myself a working digital workstation again. She might be "outdated," but she still got the moves.
 
Just modded my cheap multimeter with a spare GBA battery I had laying around and a spare TP4056 I had. The output voltage is close to 6v, but it's good enough for this. I just hate 9 volt batteries
Nice!
But... may I know what is wrong with 9V blocks?
 
Nice!
But... may I know what is wrong with 9V blocks?
They're annoying to find, and they're expensive to replace. My particular multimeter doesn't shut itself off after x amount of minutes of no usage. So it will just let the 9 volt battery die, and that happened to me. Now I can let it die, and just recharge it when it goes flat.
 
They're annoying to find, and they're expensive to replace. My particular multimeter doesn't shut itself off after x amount of minutes of no usage. So it will just let the 9 volt battery die, and that happened to me. Now I can let it die, and just recharge it when it goes flat.
Hmm...

Do you live outside the U.S.?
 
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