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Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Got a switch lite from a friend, it shows the charge icon for a second, if I start it, Nintendo logo shows up, then nothing.
From a quick search, it's a good idea to install the picofly to see if it'll load into Hekate for diagnosis, but after installing it, I immediately get ===* BCT copy failed - comparison failure, which I've never encountered before and even after searching BCT copy failed, the only results I'm getting are the list of error codes, it's either that nobody ever deals with this, or search just isn't capable of differentiating this specific issue since it's just keywords.

What are the options here? Is it the NAND that's dead and it's unrecoverable? It's not even clear what the root cause is.
It still shows the Nintendo logo with the chip attached and then goes dark.
 
Last edited by Endracion,
Evening, I'm switching to firmware 21.
I get a short yellow flash, a long one, another short one, and then it boots in OFW. As it boots, it repeats the same flash sequence.
With this sequence, the guide error reports:
No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)

Of course, I've checked everything; the only thing I haven't tested is another RP2040.

Can you help me?
 
cicci084 said:
Evening, I'm switching to firmware 21.
I get a short yellow flash, a long one, another short one, and then it boots in OFW. As it boots, it repeats the same flash sequence.
With this sequence, the guide error reports:
No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?)

Of course, I've checked everything; the only thing I haven't tested is another RP2040.

Can you help me?
Click to expand...

Error codes here:
https://github.com/Ansem-SoD/Picofly
 

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Hi

After a picofly install I have vertical lines in the screen comming from no where, they can appear and disapear, but they do not Come if the switch is in the dock on TV.

What do you suggestion ?

Thanks
 

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linkref said:
After a picofly install I have vertical lines in the screen comming from no where, they can appear and disapear, but they do not Come if the switch is in the dock on TV.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a bad connection of the TFT/LCD ribbon cable.
If it is not inserted properly in the connector stuff like this might happen.
Also check for bent/broken pins in the connector or some dust/dirt in the connector or on the ribbon cable.
If you have no microscope but a modern smartphone, you might be able to use that.
Note that the ribbon cable is rather fragile.
It can crack more easily after a few years so handle it gently.

The reason why you don't see it on the dock is that most of the signal goes through a different path.
 
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Hi,

I am facing a terrible issue, i never saw an issue like that...
I picofly-ed an v2 but i have black screen trying to boot into hekate
  • when trying to boot hekate : black screen
  • if i remove the sd card : it boots with NO SD logo
  • if i try to boot OFW (vol+ vol-) : it works
  • if i remove the SD card, boot into OFW : the switch OS sees the SD correctly
  • if i try another SD card, or another SD card reader : not better
  • if i try to replace the modchip : not better
What can i try... ?
 
linkref said:
Hi,

I am facing a terrible issue, i never saw an issue like that...
I picofly-ed an v2 but i have black screen trying to boot into hekate
  • when trying to boot hekate : black screen
  • if i remove the sd card : it boots with NO SD logo
  • if i try to boot OFW (vol+ vol-) : it works
  • if i remove the SD card, boot into OFW : the switch OS sees the SD correctly
  • if i try another SD card, or another SD card reader : not better
  • if i try to replace the modchip : not better
What can i try... ?
Click to expand...
what sdcard are you using,
 
Hi . please which PicoFly FW should be used now?
As i have other batch of chips and seems like they are booting bit slower, like 10-15x blue flashes until it flashes White or Yellow (hard to say) and I get SD Card screen.

Tried so far on 2 - OLED switches
Using same 16GB card, just to test to boot into hekate

Originally is there FW 2.73 , tried 2.80 form Rehius - PicoFly_2.80_2024.09.04_04-12
it was not much faster

Found here somewhere some FW from @abal1000x , seems "fastest" one , but not much details to it, nor FW change log.

Dont want to use it widely before is somehow confirmed.

PS: with the batch before I never faced such issue and if i recall correctly it was always faster. Even I didnt even bother with FW update (probably was shipped with 2.74?)


Thanks
 
killeriq said:
Hi . please which PicoFly FW should be used now?
As i have other batch of chips and seems like they are booting bit slower, like 10-15x blue flashes until it flashes White or Yellow (hard to say) and I get SD Card screen.

Tried so far on 2 - OLED switches
Using same 16GB card, just to test to boot into hekate

Originally is there FW 2.73 , tried 2.80 form Rehius - PicoFly_2.80_2024.09.04_04-12
it was not much faster

Found here somewhere some FW from @abal1000x , seems "fastest" one , but not much details to it, nor FW change log.

Dont want to use it widely before is somehow confirmed.

PS: with the batch before I never faced such issue and if i recall correctly it was always faster. Even I didnt even bother with FW update (probably was shipped with 2.74?)


Thanks
Click to expand...
2.75 has been reliable, you can get 2.80

many factors can affect bootup speed

1. emmc type
2. soldering
3. ramtype & emmc combination & interference
 
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Endracion said:
Got a switch lite from a friend, it shows the charge icon for a second, if I start it, Nintendo logo shows up, then nothing.
From a quick search, it's a good idea to install the picofly to see if it'll load into Hekate for diagnosis, but after installing it, I immediately get ===* BCT copy failed - comparison failure, which I've never encountered before and even after searching BCT copy failed, the only results I'm getting are the list of error codes, it's either that nobody ever deals with this, or search just isn't capable of differentiating this specific issue since it's just keywords.

What are the options here? Is it the NAND that's dead and it's unrecoverable? It's not even clear what the root cause is.
It still shows the Nintendo logo with the chip attached and then goes dark.
Click to expand...
Nobody has any input on this?
 
Endracion said:
Nobody has any input on this?
Click to expand...
If the original doesn't work, it's obviously a hardware problem. Installing PicoFly won't tell you the cause. PicoFly gives you error codes based on working hardware, to help you determine the cause of the incorrect installation. However, on hardware that's already broken, you can't rely on PicoFly's error codes; they'll already be distorted by the compromised hardware.
 
Endracion said:
Got a switch lite from a friend, it shows the charge icon for a second, if I start it, Nintendo logo shows up, then nothing.
From a quick search, it's a good idea to install the picofly to see if it'll load into Hekate for diagnosis, but after installing it, I immediately get ===* BCT copy failed - comparison failure, which I've never encountered before and even after searching BCT copy failed, the only results I'm getting are the list of error codes, it's either that nobody ever deals with this, or search just isn't capable of differentiating this specific issue since it's just keywords.

What are the options here? Is it the NAND that's dead and it's unrecoverable? It's not even clear what the root cause is.
It still shows the Nintendo logo with the chip attached and then goes dark.
Click to expand...
try to change the chip. also show the soldering work.
bct copy failed means it cannot write the emmc
so either
a. install is bad
b. emmc is about to die
c. something else.
 
Hi Guys, we all use kapton tape on sp1 and sp2 on the tegra but is it really mandatory ?
I tried without and there is no effet, also I can see that the shield is isolate.

What's your thoughts ?
 
linkref said:
Hi Guys, we all use kapton tape on sp1 and sp2 on the tegra but is it really mandatory ?
I tried without and there is no effet, also I can see that the shield is isolate.

What's your thoughts ?
Click to expand...
best to put kapton or any form of insulating material?
if your soldering is spotty, it can leave mounds and even spikes (of solder)
using too much solder will also buldge that and ive seen that happen to others.
 
killeriq said:
@leerz or Anyone has more info to that?

Thanks
Click to expand...
I am sure this was discussed before. Just use the latest version of the official firmware or abal's version. both do the same thing, in different ways. With their latest changes, Abal and rehius made sure that the mod chip goes into standby properly. How they achieved this differs, but the end result is the same.
I know it's a lot to read, but this thread has a lot of interesting and helpful information that can help you in the future. It's really worth going back to get that info and not post duplicate questions.
 
Last edited by twins333,

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