Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

cowboy619 · May 21, 2025

GaySexMaster said:
Hello, i have hwfly rp2040 original version (i think, it doesnt say v2 on it, HWFLY Core RP2040 ) and i sometimes have emmc slow issues with it installed. without it installed everything is good. i have v1 patched console.
There are some resistor mods you can do, does anyone know what values i should use
cat0 is 200ohm and cmd is 50 ohm

Dat 0 and CMD needs to have a total of 100ohm - measure the current setup and then add accordingly

Post automatically merged: May 21, 2025

matu said:
Hi everyone, I'm trying to install a hwfly chip into my switch lite and after soldering the flexi tapes I did some measurement of the points and it looks like point B is having to much voltage? I'm getting 3V while measuring in diode mode.
The values of the other points are:

Measurement in diode mode:
C: 0,729V
A: 0,725V
D: 0,731V

Measurement in beep mode:
SP1:
left side: 0,
right side: 024,7 Ohm

SP2:
left side: 024,6 Ohm,
right side 0

I watched a youtube tutorial of modding the switch lite and the guy was measuring around 1,7V on the point B. I'm getting 3V. So now I'm worried that I did something wrong. The chip is not connected yet and I haven't powered the switch on yet. I will attach some pictures, would really appreciate if someone can give me a hint what might be wrong.
Thank you in advance.

B should be around 1.7v and 2.9v - you should be fine - ps i dont like those flexes i prefer running wires or using the latest flex for lite's

matu · May 21, 2025

Thanks @cowboy619, after I attached the mod chip and measured B on the mod chip itself I got around 1,7V. Everything works fine now. Thank you.
Yes, the needed bending of those flex cabels is not good. I got the set from aliexpress. Can you recommend a source were to get the new generation of flex cabels?

nashismo · May 22, 2025

Guys I haven't posted in years in this forum, I used to post all the time.

To the point, I was installing a Hwfly Picofly chip on my brand new Oled Switch, I did everything correctly, checked all my connections, but the damn chinese flex broke (copper trace came off) in this part I will show below, anyone knows where this trace goes? Because I have no problem doing this with a wire:

Hell I would be happy to replace that entire flex cable with wires! Sadly there is not much info on these modchips, this is mine:

Thank you all!!

EDIT: If anyone has this chip, I ask you with all my heart, to measure that trace and where it goes to the end of the flex! Is not about money BUT TIME! Thank you so much.

thesjaakspoiler · May 22, 2025

nashismo said:
EDIT: If anyone has this chip, I ask you with all my heart, to measure that trace and where it goes to the end of the flex! Is not about money BUT TIME! Thank you so much.

Same cable with the exact same pad coming off is mentioned in this thread :
https://gbatemp.net/threads/will-modded-boot-without-this-connection.660106/

And as usual @jkyuho knows all the details :
https://gbatemp.net/threads/will-modded-boot-without-this-connection.660106/#post-10484012

that point is connected to ground, as long as you have other ground pad having connection.(i.e the pad under label A) you are good

nashismo · May 22, 2025

thesjaakspoiler said:
Same cable with the exact same pad coming off is mentioned in this thread :
https://gbatemp.net/threads/will-modded-boot-without-this-connection.660106/

And as usual @jkyuho knows all the details :
https://gbatemp.net/threads/will-modded-boot-without-this-connection.660106/#post-10484012

Thank you Jak!! Now I know I have to look into other solutions, you saved me days of needless work!

mike130504 · May 24, 2025

Hi guys, i need to swap resistors from this board cause i can't boot into ofw, what size are they? And also, CLK is D point, CMD is the A point, and DAT0 is C point right? They seem to be 0.6 mm

cowboy619 · May 24, 2025

matu said:
Thanks @cowboy619, after I attached the mod chip and measured B on the mod chip itself I got around 1,7V. Everything works fine now. Thank you.
Yes, the needed bending of those flex cabels is not good. I got the set from aliexpress. Can you recommend a source were to get the new generation of flex cabels?

These ones are good https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_okNewc6

Post automatically merged: May 24, 2025

nashismo said:
Guys I haven't posted in years in this forum, I used to post all the time.

To the point, I was installing a Hwfly Picofly chip on my brand new Oled Switch, I did everything correctly, checked all my connections, but the damn chinese flex broke (copper trace came off) in this part I will show below, anyone knows where this trace goes? Because I have no problem doing this with a wire:
View attachment 506034

Hell I would be happy to replace that entire flex cable with wires! Sadly there is not much info on these modchips, this is mine:
View attachment 506035

Thank you all!!

EDIT: If anyone has this chip, I ask you with all my heart, to measure that trace and where it goes to the end of the flex! Is not about money BUT TIME! Thank you so much.

Thats just an anchor point

Post automatically merged: May 24, 2025

mike130504 said:
Hi guys, i need to swap resistors from this board cause i can't boot into ofw, what size are they? And also, CLK is D point, CMD is the A point, and DAT0 is C point right? They seem to be 0.6 mm

0201 you need to add a total on each point 100ohms to DAT 0 and CMD

mike130504 · May 24, 2025

cowboy619 said:
Post automatically merged: May 24, 2025

Thats just an anchor point

Post automatically merged: May 24, 2025

0201 you need to add a total on each point 100ohms to DAT 0 and CMD

so i need to have 240+100 ohm on dat0 (C) and 47+100 on cmd (A), nothing on clk (D)?

Post automatically merged: May 24, 2025

cowboy619 said:
These ones are good https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_okNewc6

Post automatically merged: May 24, 2025

Thats just an anchor point

Post automatically merged: May 24, 2025

0201 you need to add a total on each point 100ohms to DAT 0 and CMD

i added the resistors, i now get 340 ohm to the dat 0 point (C) and 147 ohm to the CMD point. It glitches fine but when i boot it gets stuck on nintendo switch logo, before it showed a black screen after nintendo logo, so improvements have been made but it's still not enough, what can i try? i saw some people adding only 47 ohm to the dat0 line. Thanks

Edit: switch boots fine without modchip installed

Edit 2: with all the resistors in place it now glitches fine every single attempt. Before i was getting *== error code. Still no boot, should i try an higher or lower resistance on both lines?

twins333 · May 24, 2025

mike130504 said:
so i need to have 240+100 ohm on dat0 (C) and 47+100 on cmd (A), nothing on clk (D)?

Post automatically merged: May 24, 2025

i added the resistors, i now get 340 ohm to the dat 0 point (C) and 147 ohm to the CMD point. It glitches fine but when i boot it gets stuck on nintendo switch logo, before it showed a black screen after nintendo logo, so improvements have been made but it's still not enough, what can i try? i saw some people adding only 47 ohm to the dat0 line. Thanks

Edit: switch boots fine without modchip installed

Edit 2: with all the resistors in place it now glitches fine every single attempt. Before i was getting *== error code. Still no boot, should i try an higher or lower resistance on both lines?

You need 100ohm max on dat0 and cmd (not 147)

cowboy619 · May 24, 2025

mike130504 said:
so i need to have 240+100 ohm on dat0 (C) and 47+100 on cmd (A), nothing on clk (D)?

Post automatically merged: May 24, 2025

i added the resistors, i now get 340 ohm to the dat 0 point (C) and 147 ohm to the CMD point. It glitches fine but when i boot it gets stuck on nintendo switch logo, before it showed a black screen after nintendo logo, so improvements have been made but it's still not enough, what can i try? i saw some people adding only 47 ohm to the dat0 line. Thanks

Edit: switch boots fine without modchip installed

Edit 2: with all the resistors in place it now glitches fine every single attempt. Before i was getting *== error code. Still no boot, should i try an higher or lower resistance on both lines?

No dat 0 needs to be 100ohm and cmd needs to be 100ohm

mike130504 · May 24, 2025

twins333 said:
You need 100ohm max on dat0 and cmd (not 147)

but basically the dat0 already has a 240 ohm resistor.

btw i tried by adding 100 ohm on dat0 and 47 ohm (so 98 total) on cmd but still couldn’t get past black screen after nintendo logo and still got some failed glitches with *== error.

best result i got was by adding 100 ohm and 100 ohm since it booted till the nintendo switch logo but it stayed there and also i tried 20 boots with it and never got *== error. i guess i have a super picky emmc but i don’t know what else to try

so far i tried
d0: +100 cmd: +50
d0: +100 cmd: +100 best result
d0: 0 cmd:+100

boots fine with picofly unplugged

i used this as a sample, i have an aliexpress board: https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly...sappear-after-rebooting.657060/#post-10447635

Cristiano04 · May 25, 2025

Hello, when I went to remove the flat from the SP2 capacitor it came loose and broke the pad and now I can't solder it. Is there any way to get around this?
Can you search for it from another point?

thesjaakspoiler · May 25, 2025

Cristiano04 said:
Hello, when I went to remove the flat from the SP2 capacitor it came loose and broke the pad and now I can't solder it. Is there any way to get around this?
Can you search for it from another point?

You can also use points on the back of the board that connect to the same points.
Pictures are in this thread somewhere but I haven't seen anyone doing it for quite a while now.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/page-574#post-10200167
I don't know which model you have though.

Upside is that the capacitors you need to connect to are much bigger but the downside is that you have to remove the main board in order to be able to access the back side.
In your case, it will be the only option left.

Cristiano04 · May 25, 2025

Olá, quando fui remover o flat do capacitor SP2, ele se soltou e quebrou o pad, e agora não consigo soldá-lo. Existe alguma maneira de contornar isso?

thesjaakspoiler said:
You can also use points on the back of the board that connect to the same points.
Pictures are in this thread somewhere but I haven't seen anyone doing it for quite a while now.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/page-574#post-10200167
I don't know which model you have though.

Upside is that the capacitors you need to connect to are much bigger but the downside is that you have to remove the main board in order to be able to access the back side.
In your case, it will be the only option left.

thank you very much

twins333 · May 25, 2025

mike130504 said:
but basically the dat0 already has a 240 ohm resistor.

btw i tried by adding 100 ohm on dat0 and 47 ohm (so 98 total) on cmd but still couldn’t get past black screen after nintendo logo and still got some failed glitches with *== error.

best result i got was by adding 100 ohm and 100 ohm since it booted till the nintendo switch logo but it stayed there and also i tried 20 boots with it and never got *== error. i guess i have a super picky emmc but i don’t know what else to try

so far i tried
d0: +100 cmd: +50
d0: +100 cmd: +100 best result
d0: 0 cmd:+100

boots fine with picofly unplugged

i used this as a sample, i have an aliexpress board: https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly...sappear-after-rebooting.657060/#post-10447635

you're using one of the all-in-one aliexpress custom boards.
those have very bad quality most of the time. the ribbons are bad as well. I suggest you either ask the seller for guidance, or use a standard rp2040 from waveshare with the proper resistor values and mosfets. your emmc is not picky, your mod chip is.

karatefeet · May 27, 2025

I’ve come across an issue never seen before and hoping someone can share some insight.
I’m working on a v1 unpatched and the installed modchip (rp2040 core from Ali) is showing the error * * which means RST not connected then boots to ofw. I’ve tried a new modchip- same thing. I tried running wires with a rp2040 zero - same error.
What’s really odd is I can inject a payload with the RCM loader!

Anyone seen this before? Reading way back, someone mentioned the code looks for voltage on the RST line to be 1.6-2V. I measure about 1.2V. The RST line goes to the max IC on the underside so perhaps the chip is bad?

LuigiGad · May 27, 2025

karatefeet said:
I’ve come across an issue never seen before and hoping someone can share some insight.
I’m working on a v1 unpatched and the installed modchip (rp2040 core from Ali) is showing the error * * which means RST not connected then boots to ofw. I’ve tried a new modchip- same thing. I tried running wires with a rp2040 zero - same error.
What’s really odd is I can inject a payload with the RCM loader!

Anyone seen this before? Reading way back, someone mentioned the code looks for voltage on the RST line to be 1.6-2V. I measure about 1.2V. The RST line goes to the max IC on the underside so perhaps the chip is bad?

Are you sure about the quality of the soldering at point RST? If you have changed multiple chips but the error persists, it is definitely a problem with point RST on the motherboard.

karatefeet · May 27, 2025

LuigiGad said:
Are you sure about the quality of the soldering at point RST? If you have changed multiple chips but the error persists, it is definitely a problem with point RST on the motherboard.

Yes positive the soldering is good. Also the core chips from Ali use the point off the eMMC connector on the motherboard and I've tried 2 different ones.

thesjaakspoiler · May 28, 2025

The fact that you can use an RCMLoader does imply that all your lines are working correctly.

karatefeet said:
Yes positive the soldering is good. Also the core chips from Ali use the point off the eMMC connector on the motherboard and I've tried 2 different ones.

Do you have pictures?
Maybe it is something to obvious that you have overlooked it, like using the wrong point for the RST (which will also give 1.6v diode readings in some cases).
Can you also measure that there is a good connection between the RST and the resistor on the board of the modchip?
Sometimes it is just a bad board/flex/connector.

CarlosCruz · May 28, 2025

Helllo

Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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