Switch OLED teardown V1/V2

[TheUnknownOne]

Hello, just received my OLED chips and when connecting to the PC one goes straight to RED led and the other Yellow led.

the one with that goes straight to Red has a groove on one of the chips like its been dremeled.

I'm assuming its dead? what about the Yellow led one? should it not be Green or only when it's installed?

still waiting for my OLED Switch to arrive.

The red sounds like a DOA chip, the yellow is it's normal behaviour.

As for the scratches on the chips. They're doing this so people can't tell what kind of chip it is. Probably to try and stop reverse engineering.

 

[Cryzzgrantham]

Nice and clean install. Good job! I like this version better than mine...but I was impatient and I couldn't find your version for sale on Ali.

Ive been using a lot of both and the non usb version glitches instantly everytime, where as the one with debug seems to be so sporadic across the board.

imo that flex is perfect, its more like LITE installs, if we had a version with the extra flex, half dat0 adapter and debug port that would be perfect.

 

[lufeig]

Ive been using a lot of both and the non usb version glitches instantly everytime, where as the one with debug seems to be so sporadic across the board.

imo that flex is perfect, its more like LITE installs, if we had a version with the extra flex, half dat0 adapter and debug port that would be perfect.

mine is the usb version and I agree that it's glitching times are erratic, even after updating its firmware to the 0.2.0 China proper edition from Mena.

 

[ViOTeK]

Any ideas on why my RST point will not show a diode reading? Have tried with 3 multi-meters now, including a brand new one, same thing with all of them. I only get a reading if I reverse the leads and use red on the ground and black on the RST point. That said, with the new meter my readings are more in line with the others I've seen:

DAT0 = .700
CLK = .695
CMD = .691
RST = nothing with black on ground, reversing the polarity I see 415, same thing occurs directly at RST solder point.
3.3v = .712
GND = 0

 

[MrGrinch]

Any ideas on why my RST point will not show a diode reading? Have tried with 3 multi-meters now, including a brand new one, same thing with all of them. I only get a reading if I reverse the leads and use red on the ground and black on the RST point. That said, with the new meter my readings are more in line with the others I've seen:

DAT0 = .700
CLK = .695
CMD = .691
RST = nothing with black on ground, reversing the polarity I see 415, same thing occurs directly at RST solder point.
3.3v = .712
GND = 0

My guess is: https://gbatemp.net/threads/nintend...or-modchip-install.601394/page-5#post-9668457

 

[Excitedguy]

Just wanted to give a shout-out to @de9ed !

He’s the real deal and installed 2 modchips in both my OLED switches. I play primarily in handheld so OLED is definitely worth the upgrade and costs of the modchip and installation.

I actually tried to do 1 install myself and it fried the switch. I thought I did the install right and all the diode values were correct, but yet I still saw some smoke after turning it on to test. So lost confidence in my skills and decided to have a pro like @de9ed do the installs for me.

I found out later the reason my install failed is because there is a bug in spacecraft v1 on the Hwfly lite modchip that if you turn on the switch with no sd card inserted, it sends 5v to the switch and fries it. It pains me that I killed it by just forgetting to plug in the sd card, but at least I know now my micro soldering skills are decent for being a beginner!

 

[White_Raven_X]

I still have an hwfly v2 and I found a schematic to follow to install in a oled... But I read somewhere that I would need to update the firmware as OLEDs use more voltage or something like that and the firmware on the V2 isn't compatible even though the hardware can be installed.
Can anyone confirm this? Also can I update the firmware on this hwfly v2 cause I also read it was locked down and cannot be updated? I'm confused.

 

[Excitedguy]

I still have an hwfly v2 and I found a schematic to follow to install in a oled... But I read somewhere that I would need to update the firmware as OLEDs use more voltage or something like that and the firmware on the V2 isn't compatible even though the hardware can be installed.
Can anyone confirm this? Also can I update the firmware on this hwfly v2 cause I also read it was locked down and cannot be updated? I'm confused.

If it's on spacecraft v2 and not v1, it's safe to install into an OLED. Only spacecraft v1 sends the 5v to the switch if no sd card is inserted or payload.bin is missing.

The only thing I can warn you about v2 though is that it has some compatibility issues with some sd cards not working. To my knowledge, all samsung sd cards work fine, other brands are trial and error to see which work and which don't.

 

[note9]

The red sounds like a DOA chip, the yellow is it's normal behaviour.

As for the scratches on the chips. They're doing this so people can't tell what kind of chip it is. Probably to try and stop reverse engineering.

Is it faulty firmware that can be reflashed or it's a dead chip?

 

[TheUnknownOne]

I have no idea. I'm guessing DOA or bricked somehow. I flashed mine no problem and it runs great now.

 

[TheUnknownOne]

If it's on spacecraft v2 and not v1, it's safe to install into an OLED. Only spacecraft v1 sends the 5v to the switch if no sd card is inserted or payload.bin is missing.

The only thing I can warn you about v2 though is that it has some compatibility issues with some sd cards not working. To my knowledge, all samsung sd cards work fine, other brands are trial and error to see which work and which don't.

A newer fw has been released that for the most part has fixed the issue. It sure has hell did for me (on the 6 wire chip)

 

[Donnie-Burger]

A newer fw has been released that for the most part has fixed the issue. It sure has hell did for me (on the 6 wire chip)

6 wire chip here with smaller flex cable - FW Left stock - Glitchess instantly. Just like the old OG non clones, results vary.

 

[TheUnknownOne]

6 wire chip here with smaller flex cable - FW Left stock - Glitchess instantly. Just like the old OG non clones, results vary.

If it works for you then it works. Personally I would highly recommend everyone update their 6 wire chip, but that's me.

 

[boston909]

A newer fw has been released that for the most part has fixed the issue. It sure has hell did for me (on the 6 wire chip)

Did you flash the r021 firmware from sthetix? I'm just asking around about this as my switch is currently with my local modder to install the OLED chip.

 

[TheUnknownOne]

Did you flash the r021 firmware from sthetix? I'm just asking around about this as my switch is currently with my local modder to install the OLED chip.

If that's the one where he updated the video to add that, then yes that's the one. Trust me it is worth doing.

 

[boston909]

If that's the one where he updated the video to add that, then yes that's the one. Trust me it is worth doing.

Cheers - that is indeed the one on his video: ... I'll get my UK-based modder to do that.

 

[FR0ZN]

Anyone also using the UL10064 wire he is recommending?

 

[lufeig]

Anyone also using the UL10064 wire he is recommending?

I am and highly recommend it.

It’s easier to manipulate than 0.1mm enamel wire. The silicone coating gives the impression of being safer than enamel too.

This is my OLED installation using it.

 

[Donnie-Burger]

Anyone also using the UL10064 wire he is recommending?

I used kynar 36 and worked fine.

 

[FR0ZN]

I am and highly recommend it.

It’s easier to manipulate than 0.1mm enamel wire. The silicone coating gives the impression of being safer than enamel too.

This is my OLED installation using it.

What worries me the most is the braided core with multiple wires.

I used kynar 36 and worked fine.

Thanks, I might have some of that laying around.