Hacking Question Power button does not work

[pedrosh]

Hi everyone. So the other day I tried loading an arcade rom through Retroarch, but my switch crashed several times (it seems that I was using the wrong core). After the third reboot or so, I realized that the power button just stopped working. I can still make the switch enter and exit sleep mode, but i was wondering if there is any way to fix it. BTW, my switch is on 10.2 and I'm using Atmosphere, in case it is relevant.

Thanks in advance

 

[BaamAlex]

I can still make the switch enter and exit sleep mode

Then...is your power button not broken

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

According to Nintendo's own suggestions , just reboot the Switch once.
That did solve it for me.

 

[pedrosh]

Then...is your power button not broken

What I meant is that its still possible to wake up the swith (by holding the home button), and enter sleep mode (by touching the "on" icon on the menu)

According to Nintendo's own suggestions , just reboot the Switch once.
That did solve it for me.

How am I supposed to do that without the power button?

EDIT: I managed to reboot it twice, first via the "reboot to payload" homebrew and then via Goldleaf, but no luck.

Any ideas?

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Hi everyone. So the other day I tried loading an arcade rom through Retroarch, but my switch crashed several times (it seems that I was using the wrong core). After the third reboot or so, I realized that the power button just stopped working. I can still make the switch enter and exit sleep mode, but i was wondering if there is any way to fix it. BTW, my switch is on 10.2 and I'm using Atmosphere, in case it is relevant.

Thanks in advance

The power and volume buttons are on a little separate board that you can probably get replacements for online at a reasonable price. No soldering should be needed.

The buttons are little metallic clicky dome switches like this. If you can solder you can try to desolder them and clean the contacts on the board and the inside of the dome with IPA. Maybe by soaking it in IPA you can clean it sufficiently without desoldering anything. Or you can get a replacement board online for about $10.

 

[pedrosh]

How hard/safe is it? I have some experience with this kind of stuff (I replaced the left joy con two years ago) but I'm worried I may fuck up my switch. Not to mention I've never done any soldering, although my father has, so i guess i could ask him. Besides, the volume buttons still work, so maybe the board is not the issue... IDK

 

[The Real Jdbye]

How hard/safe is it? I have some experience with this kind of stuff (I replaced the left joy con two years ago) but I'm worried I may fuck up my switch. Not to mention I've never done any soldering, although my father has, so i guess i could ask him. Besides, the volume buttons still work, so maybe the board is not the issue... IDK

Easy enough. Remove all the screws on the back and the middle screw on the JoyCon rails and the back comes off, be careful with the little microSD board, the connector is flimsy, pull it straight off after removing the single screw and align it carefully when putting it back on before pushing down. A few more screws and the metal shielding comes off, careful not to get that thermal paste gunk everywhere you can reuse it. Lastly you need to remove the CPU heatpipes/heatsink, as the cable is routed under it.
The Switch is pretty easy to work on thanks to how modular it is, the main PCB is just the main hardware like the SoC, charging/USB controllers and such and everything else is on separate boards, even the flash chip. Ribbon cables and connectors can be flimsy so be careful with them.

I assume you meant the left JoyCon stick and not the whole JoyCon?

 

[pedrosh]

Easy enough. Remove all the screws on the back and the middle screw on the JoyCon rails and the back comes off, be careful with the little microSD board, the connector is flimsy, pull it straight off after removing the single screw and align it carefully when putting it back on before pushing down. A few more screws and the metal shielding comes off, careful not to get that thermal paste gunk everywhere you can reuse it. Lastly you need to remove the CPU heatpipes/heatsink, as the cable is routed under it.
The Switch is pretty easy to work on thanks to how modular it is, the main PCB is just the main hardware like the SoC, charging/USB controllers and such and everything else is on separate boards, even the flash chip. Ribbon cables and connectors can be flimsy so be careful with them.

I assume you meant the left JoyCon stick and not the whole JoyCon?

Thanks, I'll do some more research first but it seems I'll likely have to replace the board. And yes, I meant the stick . "Joy-con drift isn't real"

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Thanks, I'll do some more research first but it seems I'll likely have to replace the board. And yes, I meant the stick . "Joy-con drift isn't real"

Oh yeah and you need a size Y00 triwing bit/driver. Don't try a Y0 as it will strip the screws. I found that out the hard way.