I took the copper plate off and used one of those IC Diamond thermal graphite pads. Best decision ever. Far better heat transfer than the little piece of copper. but to answer you, yes. MX4 will work just fine.
I second this, I did this with Thermal Grizzly’s Carbonaut pad (not as good as the IC Diamond pad but still good enough). I also used their Minus 8 brand 0.5mm thermal pads along the heat pipe to transfer heat to the RF shield as well. I believe 1.0mm would be optimal as I used spacers on the backplate to keep the metal RF shield pushed onto the pads for better heat transfer as the 0.5mm just touches and the added pressure keeps compressed for better heat transfer.
The copper sticker is put on the metal shield that you took off it should not have been taken off of that to begin with so hell yes put the copper sticker back on that is a must unless you made or ordered something better to use. all you had to do was remove the metal plate that had that copper sticker on it then taken the past off under it and on top of it replaced the past (with better stuff) then put the cover back on then the heat pipe then the past on the heat pipe then the big metal backing.If i remove the copper sticker to replace the paste under, can/ should i put it back after?
Nope i tried but failed. Bent the metal surrounding it. I guess you need a sharp tip razor, but i should't improve temp muchI havent removed the sticker yet..so it is worth to remove the metal plate to replace the paste on the cpu die instead of just replacing the other 2 layers of paste(heatsink, back shield)?
It seems tricky to remove the cpu metal shield without breaking it
Ok i decided to not replace the paste on the die.Nope i tried but failed. Bent the metal surrounding it. I guess you need a sharp tip razor, but i should't improve temp much
I did that on my switch when I put a new housing on it and Have never had a problem with it as of now and that was moths ago, only problem I have every right joycon motherboard I replace the R button falls off so I give up lol.Ok i decided to not replace the paste on the die.
last doubt; can i replace the pinky gum like paste between the back shield and heatsink with mx4?
Im afraid of breaking the metal shield on the die, btw i was thinking so replacing termal paste On the die would mean a sort of “delid” right?I did that on my switch when I put a new housing on it and Have never had a problem with it as of now and that was moths ago, only problem I have every right joycon motherboard I replace the R button falls off so I give up lol.
But replacing the one on the die is not hard at all and plus its way better then what they put on at the factory.
ya its really small clips on it just take a small flathead or something like it and go around slow lifting the edge all around little by little and it will pop right off its not hard and it just snaps back on, its worth the extra work plus mine runs a bit cooler docked as well, plus I found all my compound was dried up on my switch and had a snowflake pattern on the chip, So some is done better then others but Nintendo did not do a good job on this switch, I do wish I took photos of it.Im afraid of breaking the metal shield on the die, btw i was thinking so replacing termal paste On the die would mean a sort of “delid” right?
Emm no the copper stick literally does nothing but add a pointless layer of thermal resistance to the die itself. you get better thermal performance doing directly to the die which literally only requires you to just screw the heatpipe on with same force you would use reattaching it anyway.The copper sticker is put on the metal shield that you took off it should not have been taken off of that to begin with so hell yes put the copper sticker back on that is a must unless you made or ordered something better to use. all you had to do was remove the metal plate that had that copper sticker on it then taken the past off under it and on top of it replaced the past (with better stuff) then put the cover back on then the heat pipe then the past on the heat pipe then the big metal backing.
the thermal paste is applied directly to the die just like laptop cpus the die doesnt have an IHS "lid" to get the best thermal conductivity in the size restraints.Im afraid of breaking the metal shield on the die, btw i was thinking so replacing termal paste On the die would mean a sort of “delid” right?
So I removed the copper shim/tape and applied Kryonaut after removing the old thermal paste. I also put 0.5mm thermal pads on the ram chips on the inside of the shield and on the outside next to the heatpipe.
Now my switch stutters slightly undocked and severely stutters when docked. This happens even after no use on a cold boot. Did I put too much thermal paste or not enough?
i think these thermal pads you put are overkill
Yeah it's probably overkill but I saw people doing that in this thread and elsewhere. That wouldn't make my switch stutter though right?