Sorry! Not near a console! Give me till this evening. Not much switch play time today
Hey mattytrog,
Would you be able to test and find the values of the cap circled below? Thanks!
Attachments
Pretty specific, but this is the Joy-Con battery female connector (the one that sits on the PCB):
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-78171-0002
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-78171-0002
M92T36 area... You can use either 1uF or 2.2uF caps. Whichever you can get the easiest,
Last edited by mattytrog,
@mattytrog
Do you think this is a suitable fuse replacement ? i think i see an "R" marking on the fuse , and for Littlefuse fuses means 3.5 A if is produced by Littlefuse.
https://ro.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0438035WRA?qs=wd5RIQLrsJi0ppmxLVSh6Q==
Edit 24.07.2019
The corect size it's 0402, if you have 0603 you can fit it if you make one of the pads larger by removing some of the coating on the pcb .
Value probably 2.5 A or 3 A.
Do you think this is a suitable fuse replacement ? i think i see an "R" marking on the fuse , and for Littlefuse fuses means 3.5 A if is produced by Littlefuse.
https://ro.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0438035WRA?qs=wd5RIQLrsJi0ppmxLVSh6Q==
Edit 24.07.2019
The corect size it's 0402, if you have 0603 you can fit it if you make one of the pads larger by removing some of the coating on the pcb .
Value probably 2.5 A or 3 A.
Attachments
Last edited by Modificatorul,
Looks like an R to me too.
It could be a Matsuo fuse too. Their R rated are 0.315a. Which is FAR FAR too low.
So, yes. I`d go with that.
@spirity
https://gbatemp.net/threads/help-needed-to-indentify-missing-capacitor.529226/
1uf 10v 0402 should work.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/help-needed-to-indentify-missing-capacitor.529226/
1uf 10v 0402 should work.
Last edited by Modificatorul,
I have a problem with my switch works perfect in handheld but will not dock, just black screen. the tv output settings only show 480p.
I have used my multimeter around the usb c port and on the following pic i seem to have continuity on the pins marked (sorry for wobbly lines)? I checked the 3 in the pic and seem to have continuity on the lower 2.
I am new to this testing like this so learning as i go a long, would love some input from others who have a working board to hand to tell me if this is normal?
I know my dock works, my tv is fine so it is the switch, changing the usb c port is do-able but a big job, wanted to do that as last resort!
thanks
I have used my multimeter around the usb c port and on the following pic i seem to have continuity on the pins marked (sorry for wobbly lines)? I checked the 3 in the pic and seem to have continuity on the lower 2.
I am new to this testing like this so learning as i go a long, would love some input from others who have a working board to hand to tell me if this is normal?
I know my dock works, my tv is fine so it is the switch, changing the usb c port is do-able but a big job, wanted to do that as last resort!
thanks
Is that picture of your actual board? If so, unless my eyes are playing up on me, around the USB C connector looks as though it has some corrosion? the water indicator sticker doesn't look like it's been tripped.
Did you happen to have any water damage around that area?
yes thats the board, i haven't spilt anything but possible previous owner?
i will take a closer look, might have to swap the usb c after all!
thanks for a second set of eyes
Another suggestion is to get one of those circuit board cleaners that comes in a can, they come in many brands but pretty much do all the same thing. Spray in and around that area and use a small toothbrush and just do a general clean around the usb-c area to clean that white corrosion off and let it sit to dry, these cleaners dries pretty quick.
A can shouldn't cost you more than $10 AUD, not sure how much is that in your currency, I got some at my local electronics store.
Worth a shot because I seen videos on how to change those usb-c ports, if your a noob, it's going to be hard but if your good with your soldering skills it shouldn't be a problem.
My first switch was a second hand one with no history, when I opened it up, it looks like it has some sort of water damage at some stage, I used the cleaner to clean up as much as I can see, not sure if it made any difference but it did looks heaps better than before
You need to check the PI3USB IC on the back of the board where the signal lines come in from the USB-C port, just above the port are 5 filters check all these for continuity also check the lines for any shorts to ground.
Aslo look inside the usb port to check all the pins are OK
Last edited by Pintglass,
I might as well ask in this thread.
As stated in my previous reply, my hacked switch I got a while ago was second hand with no history, it only worked in docked mode, figured it was a faulty screen, replaced that and all is working.
I did notice it has some water damage at some stage, the water indicators didn't trip so it could have been some light water damage, had green corrosion on some solder points, connectors, etc.. Did my best to clean it all up and everything works as it should.
Now comes the weird part, I have those usb-c voltage monitors that monitors the charge/volts, the Switch charges with no issues either by the dock or directly connecting the OEM Switch charger as far as I can tell since it charges pretty quickly.
I purchased a portable battery bank/pack to charge the Switch on the go, I noticed that the Switch charges very slowly, checked the usb-c voltage monitor, it's only charging at around 0.12A. I tested the same power bank on my second Switch which I got brand new back in the day and it's charging at 1.87A.
Could the charging IC be causing this?
OEM charger is fine but using any other power bank/packs, not good, do the same on my good Switch, I have no issues.
As stated in my previous reply, my hacked switch I got a while ago was second hand with no history, it only worked in docked mode, figured it was a faulty screen, replaced that and all is working.
I did notice it has some water damage at some stage, the water indicators didn't trip so it could have been some light water damage, had green corrosion on some solder points, connectors, etc.. Did my best to clean it all up and everything works as it should.
Now comes the weird part, I have those usb-c voltage monitors that monitors the charge/volts, the Switch charges with no issues either by the dock or directly connecting the OEM Switch charger as far as I can tell since it charges pretty quickly.
I purchased a portable battery bank/pack to charge the Switch on the go, I noticed that the Switch charges very slowly, checked the usb-c voltage monitor, it's only charging at around 0.12A. I tested the same power bank on my second Switch which I got brand new back in the day and it's charging at 1.87A.
Could the charging IC be causing this?
OEM charger is fine but using any other power bank/packs, not good, do the same on my good Switch, I have no issues.
Size is OK not sure on power rating 0201 are typically 50 mW
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