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Hacking RELEASE CTCaer's Hekate w/ Battery Desync Fix

  • Thread starter Thread starter GalaxyYT
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CTCaer said:
The other one that powered-on right away had AutoRCM?

Additionally,
For the switch with AutoRCM:
So you charged it, after that, how you tried to send the payload?

Normally the way to go for autorcm is:
Payload.
Remove usb.
Run fix.
Press PWR for 12-15s to completely power off again. (This should be optional though...)
Connect wall adapter or PC (you need a source that can give ~500mA and more. Smartphones are ~200mA max and other even less)
Normally from a complete power off, you have to press [PWR] or [PWR + VOL UP](for no autorcm) to switch on again.
Run the payload so you can boot into HOS.
Click to expand...

Yes, both my switches have AutoRCM.

Switch 1:
- Payload
- Remove USB
- Go to Tools and run the fix
- Connect to USB again (via Laptop) and tried to send payload again. TegraRCMSmash responded with "not found"
- Connect to docking station for charging. 1h later tried payload again, did not work.
- Removed battery manually

Additional: I pressed [PWR] mutliple times to try to force it off at first and then try to power on again.

Switch 2:
- Payload
- Go to Tools and run the fix
- Remove USB when I was told to
- Connect to laptop USB again, send payload, everything back to normal.
 
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Leanny said:
Yes, both my switches have AutoRCM.

Switch 1:
- Payload
- Remove USB
- Go to Tools and run the fix
- Connect to USB again (via Laptop) and tried to send payload again. TegraRCMSmash responded with "not found"
- Connect to docking station for charging. 1h later tried payload again, did not work.
- Removed battery manually

Additional: I pressed [PWR] mutliple times to try to force it off at first and then try to power on again.

Switch 2:
- Payload
- Go to Tools and run the fix
- Remove USB when I was told to
- Connect to laptop USB again, send payload, everything back to normal.
Click to expand...
So it's probably a timing thingy.

OK, it probably gonna still work if the order is
run fix, remove usb. power 12s, plugin usb, etc.

I'll mitigate this by not letting you run the fix if the adapter is not connected.
But still this is strange. It probably has something to do with the supplement mode.

Last question, you remember the approx percents (%) of battery from your 2 switches?
 
Last edited by CTCaer,
ShadowXin225 said:
Will have to wait before I can open the switch my screwdrivers are fucked and I don't have a tri wing
Click to expand...

Old modding trick and only advised if you practice on something dead first like 100 times buts you could try and heat the screw with a soldering iron until the screw can fall out but then again, like I said... 100 times...

Be advised I am not liable if you toast your switch.


Edit: second thought you should just try and grab a set of bolt extractors, those would 100% work.
 
Last edited by Duhasst0,
That would be a no go as I'd have to hammer it in to the tiny screw in the rail I don't trust myself enough

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Same with the tri wings due to it being tiny and fragile

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Is there anyone in Sydney who could help me willing to pay even if you have a screwdriver and effectively remove the screws I'll be great full to have a working switch haha
 
Well if your desperate here is what I did-
I was doing a cooling mod and totally stripped two of the screws. For one of them I was able to use a torx driver and pressing very hard managed to get the grip on the screw I needed to get it out. The second one I just hollowed out more using a torx, so I took a file and sharpened an old tri driver I had laying around (in retrospect maybe sharpening a flathead would have worked better... but anyway) and pushed in hard to get a grip on the head of the screw and manages to get it out. Both screws came out easy once I was able to "break" them loose and get them started.

Now of course doing what I described could hollow your screws out even more and maybe even break the head off... but it worked for me.
 
ShadowXin225 said:
please do that I think the guy who tried compiling it messed up and I was a Guinee pig to test lol second switch this month.
Click to expand...
Really late to this. I didn't change anything in the source code, and I definitely know this works for me at least. I simply ran make in the cloned directory.
 
I don't understand how to use this. Do I just need to boot into hekate with rcm and then just click on the battery fix? Does the battery need to stay at is minimum percentage? (In my case is 57%, if my console reaches that percentage it turns off instantly) or it needs to stay at is maximum displayed percentage? (100%)? Do I need to flash the payload and then connect the Switch to power adapter before clicking on the fix?

I am confused
 

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