Hacking [RCM] hekate-ipl for 5.0.x + working hb menu

[riyyi]

I don't think this can be shared like this on here. Probably better to email it or link it via pm. Someone else may know better than me though

It states this in the rule section: "We DO NOT HOST or PROVIDE ROMs/WADs/ISOs/CIAs; or link to websites that do contain ROMs/WADs/ISOs/CIAs."
Is the BOOT0 dump classified as a 'ROM'?

 

[lembi2001]

I think it's copyrighted content. Like I said, someone else may know better

 

[nmkd]

doesent work on my 64gb SDXC card

Make sure it's fat32 formatted

 

[subcon959]

It states this in the rule section: "We DO NOT HOST or PROVIDE ROMs/WADs/ISOs/CIAs; or link to websites that do contain ROMs/WADs/ISOs/CIAs."
Is the BOOT0 dump classified as a 'ROM'?

I'd be more worried that it contained unique details about your Switch. I have no idea if it does but I don't think sharing it publically is a great idea anyway.

 

[riyyi]

I'd be more worried that it contained unique details about your Switch. I have no idea if it does but I don't think sharing it publically is a great idea anyway.

Thats true, I'll remove it and PM the OP.

 

[aikon]

doesent work on my 64gb SDXC card

Same here..

Enviado de meu F5122 usando Tapatalk

 

[msaraiva]

Why? It’s no different then bending two pins together, which ever route you take the two pins are grounded and basically unusable.

Of course it's different. First, the test pads are much bigger than the pins. Second, the test pads are not in contact with the pins on the joycon rails. If you have extra solder spilling over any other pin, you can short the connection and damage the Joycon, the Switch, or both. So yeah, it's MUCH safer to short the test pads than the actual joycon pins.

 

[Dr.doom]

Nice work .

Same here..

Enviado de meu F5122 usando Tapatalk

Use Rufus for your 64gb cards format to fat 32 it'll work .

 

[BL4Z3D247]

-snip-
Then why even bother posting? What are you sore because you're on a firmware that hasn't got access to homebrew?

Grow up already, devs are getting things out as fast as they can. Do you want unstable hax and CFW to brick Switches?

The amount of self-entitled little babies begging for things is sickening, seriously. If I was Jan4V(be glad I'm not), I wouldn't even bother. Why should people/devs who only hear people demanding them to release things rather than thanking them for taking the time to create/work on these sort of things for the community.

@Jan4V, I'm not even on 5.0.x but on behalf of all the children hounding you, thank you for the time you're spending to help those who can't help themselves.

 

[Reecey]

Of course it's different. First, the test pads are much bigger than the pins. Second, the test pads are not in contact with the pins on the joycon rails. If you have extra solder spilling over any other pin, you can short the connection and damage the Joycon, the Switch, or both. So yeah, it's MUCH safer to short the test pads than the actual joycon pins.

Yeah I’ve realised I have made a huge mistake so I have ordered another right joy con assembly rail, it was only £10.00&pp but this time I will leave the rail and solder the two joints ground & live with a wire instead. I think you can do this also?

 

[msaraiva]

Yeah I’ve realised I have made a huge mistake so I have ordered another right joy con assembly rail, it was only £10.00&pp but this time I will leave the rail and solder the two joints ground & live with a wire instead. I think you can do this also?

The easiest (and safest) mod, imho, is on the right joycon itself, on the test pads, right above the pins. A blob of solder between those two is enough to get it done, no wire needed.

 

[OkazakiTheOtaku]

The easiest (and safest) mod, imho, is on the right joycon itself, on the test pads, right above the pins. A blob of solder between those two is enough to get it done, no wire needed.

I've heard of people doing that and then the joycon doesn't get recognized as being "attached" to the switch anymore

 

[Reecey]

The easiest (and safest) mod, imho, is on the right joycon itself, on the test pads, right above the pins. A blob of solder between those two is enough to get it done, no wire needed.

What do you mean? That sounds like exactly what I did in the first instance that’s why I am in this mess and the right joy con won’t recognise as connected.

I’ve decided now I will fit the new rail and keep the old one to access cfw a bit like using an expensive a 3D printed jig lol, this will do without needing to mod anything on the joy con. I presume I can use the old rail by sliding it down the rails on the side of the switch touching the correct pins and activating cfw that way, much easier and safer I reckon I’ve learned an expensive lesson here!

 

[Justin20020]

I have a question about the rawnand dump. I'm using a 120 gb sd card but why stopped the dump at 89% with a text with "Done"? I have enough space and I got 12 parts (part 12 has 0 bytes) and together I got around 24 gb. Something went wrong I think. What can I do now?

Can someone help me here?

 

[Reecey]

I've heard of people doing that and then the joycon doesn't get recognized as being "attached" to the switch anymore

My point exactly very astute of you! this is why I have had to order a new right rail assembly in the first place.

 

[msaraiva]

What do you mean? That sounds like exactly what I did in the first instance that’s why I am in this mess and the right joy con won’t recognise as connected.

I’ve decided now I will fit the new rail and keep the old one to access cfw a bit like using an expensive a 3D printed jig lol, this will do without needing to mod anything on the joy con. I presume I can use the old rail by sliding it down the rails on the side of the switch touching the correct pins and activating cfw that way, much easier and safer I reckon I’ve learned an expensive lesson here!

My point exactly very astute of you! this is why I have had to order a new right rail assembly in the first place.

That's not what you did. You bent the pins. I'm talking about soldering the TEST PADS above the PINS on the Right Joycon. That's completely safe. Look at the picture that I attached:

 

[OkazakiTheOtaku]

I'm talking about soldering the TEST PADS above the PINS on the Right Joycon. That's completely safe.

Does that still affect the joycon's ability to be detected as attached to the switch?

 

[msaraiva]

Does that still affect the joycon's ability to be detected as attached to the switch?

Definitely not. This has been happening with other ppl because they shorted/damaged different pins altogether.

 

[OkazakiTheOtaku]

Definitely not. This has been happening with other ppl because they shorted/damaged different pins altogether.

I had an idea of using conductive copper tape to bridge the 10 and 9, and the insulating the copper tape with the foam pad in the joycon. would this be feasible? im trying to avoid permanent mods

 

[msaraiva]

I had an idea of using conductive copper tape to bridge the 10 and 9, and the insulating the copper tape with the foam pad in the joycon. would this be feasible? im trying to avoid permanent mods

If it's thin enough and doesn't short any other pins, it should be fine. If you do go the solder route, it's very easy to undo later on as well, so i wouldn't call it "permanent".