Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Nephiel]

Some answer confusion using AI, sometimes AI says this is source power 3.3V to cpu/apu and says the Mosfet in glitch curt-circuit this line to break cpu/apu work, but others AI says this line is D0 and CLK and mosfet down this sinal to interrupt eMMC communication, what is the truth?

The truth is those "AI"s are just plausible-looking-random-bullshit generators. The sooner people realize this truth and quit treating LLMs as all-knowing oracles, the better.

The answer you seek can be found here: https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/

 

[LuigiGad]

i see there are new dat0 flex can fit on point it is black where can find it tabao?

the thing i wonder is, if an installer technician has the skills to do a kamikaze on oleds, why should he tie himself to commercial gadgets to make a modification? personally having the skills like many of you, i would avoid in all ways to tie myself to commercial solutions like hwfly / flex etc etc. In my humble opinion the only acceptable commercial solution would be that of mosfets on flex which save a lot of time and do not affect costs, for the rest all freely usable material like rp 2040 and resistors.

 

[lightautodark]

the thing i wonder is, if an installer technician has the skills to do a kamikaze on oleds, why should he tie himself to commercial gadgets to make a modification? personally having the skills like many of you, i would avoid in all ways to tie myself to commercial solutions like hwfly / flex etc etc. In my humble opinion the only acceptable commercial solution would be that of mosfets on flex which save a lot of time and do not affect costs, for the rest all freely usable material like rp 2040 and resistors.

Because for a lot of people, time is very precious, chip installation is just a side gig. The kit in the video costs $4 (when bought in bulk). Installation time = 30 - 40 mins.

 

[ANIL007]

11've installed the mosfet directly to the cpu as I had the flex broken when testing source, No continuety.
But after hours of testing I don't know why I lost 3.3v on +7780 ic is missing 1.8v enable to start produce the 3.3v and when testing the caps near the +7780 it only rised up to 0.056mv.
So now I'm trying now to fix the switch then will resume with the rp2040.

Hope I get it fixed fingers crossed.

If anyone came a cross this problem pm me or reply.
Will need some help here.

Hello. i have same problem do you find a solition. My chip is to much warming.

Post automatically merged: Mar 7, 2025

 

[dehydrated_lemur]

So I got a batch of tinyflys made and so far on the first handful of installs I have done I am experiencing something a little weird. When I press the power button the switch doesn't boot. I keep needing to hold down the power button for 13 seconds to force shut it off. After doing that the switch boots and glitches properly. Happening on the first couple consoles with this chip now. Its like when I get the No SD screen and then press the power button again to turn it off, it's not fully turning off or something.

Basically consoles are only booting and glitching after force shutting them down.

Seems to randomly happen. For example, if Ieave it off for a while and then go to turn it on.

Not sure if anyone has heard of this or if it's like a luck of the draw kind of thing or what.

 

[deeps]

So I got a batch of tinyflys made and so far on the first handful of installs I have done I am experiencing something a little weird. When I press the power button the switch doesn't boot. I keep needing to hold down the power button for 13 seconds to force shut it off. After doing that the switch boots and glitches properly. Happening on the first couple consoles with this chip now. Its like when I get the No SD screen and then press the power button again to turn it off, it's not fully turning off or something.

Basically consoles are only booting and glitching after force shutting them down.

Seems to randomly happen. For example, if Ieave it off for a while and then go to turn it on.

Not sure if anyone has heard of this or if it's like a luck of the draw kind of thing or what.

I've had similar problems with my preassembled tinyflys. about 1 in every 10 chips have behaved like this for me. My guess is that the problem is that the batch of rp2040's they have in stock at JLCPCB isn't very good, so they can't handle being overclocked to 200mhz and sometimes immediately freeze on boot instead leaving the io's stuck open, which results in the switch booting into RCM (black screen).

 

[Danook28]

is this rcm chip can soldering in nintendo switch motherboard is it fake it is boot normal to hekate i need digram after i press power it only do blue led blinking i chose tool outo rcm enabled now only if i press in + boton in chip it is soldring ready in switch. need digram if there any info.

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

is this rcm chip can soldering in nintendo switch motherboard is it fake it is boot normal to hekate i need digram after i press power it only do blue led blinking i chose tool outo rcm enabled now only if i press in + boton in chip it is soldring ready in switch. need digram if there any info.

That is 'just' a RCMLoader , this has nothing to do with the picofly.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loader-Nintenton-Switch-Payloads-Injector/dp/B0C1BX75DZ
You can only do something with that if you have an unpatched original Switch.
Maybe you need a firmware update to get it working again :
https://gbatemp.net/download/rcm-loader-one-plus-firmware-v2-02.37758/

 

[Danook28]

That is 'just' a RCMLoader , this has nothing to do with the picofly.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loader-Nintenton-Switch-Payloads-Injector/dp/B0C1BX75DZ
You can only do something with that if you have an unpatched original Switch.
Maybe you need a firmware update to get it working again :
https://gbatemp.net/download/rcm-loader-one-plus-firmware-v2-02.37758/

thank you so much.it is go hekate and emummc. after press + and power in console.i think it is fake.

i will change it with x86 rcm chip.

yes it is unpatched console. you meaning can soldering picofly chip?????

 

[Mr Skinner]

@abal1000x,
Are you okay pal?

I always come back here to read when I have questions, but I saw that you deleted all your main posts from the topic... what happened?

 

[hippy dave]

@abal1000x,
Are you okay pal?

I always come back here to read when I have questions, but I saw that you deleted all your main posts from the topic... what happened?

Not to speak for them, but that sounds like the kind of thing that suggests someone has been contacted by Nintendo

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

Hello. i have same problem do you find a solition. My chip is to much warming.

I can think of 3 reasons :
- Your MOSFET is broken. Remember that it is used to short the power to the ground which takes its toll on the MOSFET.
If it was working but not anymore, then this might be issue. You can check this with a multimeter.
- Do you have the right part number? It needs to be a N-Channel MOSFET.
- Did you connect it correctly? I can across a DIY mod last year where they managed to connect it incorrectly.

Post automatically merged: Mar 10, 2025

thank you so much.it is go hekate and emummc. after press + and power in console.i think it is fake.

i will change it with x86 rcm chip.

yes it is unpatched console. you meaning can soldering picofly chip?????

If it is unpatched, you don't need a picofly.
If you set up AutoRCM, you almost never need that rcm loader.
Only when you drain the battery.
But you can use a PC/Mac/Android phone as a rcm loader too.
The only advantage of the picofly is that you don't need any other device to turn on your switch.

 

[Danook28]

I can think of 3 reasons :
- Your MOSFET is broken. Remember that it is used to short the power to the ground which takes its toll on the MOSFET.
If it was working but not anymore, then this might be issue. You can check this with a multimeter.
- Do you have the right part number? It needs to be a N-Channel MOSFET.
- Did you connect it correctly? I can across a DIY mod last year where they managed to connect it incorrectly.

Post automatically merged: Mar 10, 2025

If it is unpatched, you don't need a picofly.
If you set up AutoRCM, you almost never need that rcm loader.
Only when you drain the battery.
But you can use a PC/Mac/Android phone as a rcm loader too.
The only advantage of the picofly is that you don't need any other device to turn on your switch.

thank you bro... it is working now with picofly. and for safe way will buy x86 chip rcm. for unpatched coz it fit super nice very small tiny.

 

[buggyuser323]

Dears, I managed to install the modchip on my oled, and it works well! (using better solder and flux was key). I've used the (rp2040 v3?) modkit with all its flex cables and adapters.

Only one issue: when i attach the left joycon, it recognizes with animation/sound and plays fine BUT doesn't charge. Joycon charges fine on another switch. I tried reinserting the ribbon cable on the left and I'm sure it's inserted well now.

Please let me know where on the board should I look to find the most probable issue (broken trace or component)? What options might I have to fix it?

 

[jkyoho]

Dears, I managed to install the modchip on my oled, and it works well! (using better solder and flux was key). I've used the (rp2040 v3?) modkit with all its flex cables and adapters.

Only one issue: when i attach the left joycon, it recognizes with animation/sound and plays fine BUT doesn't charge. Joycon charges fine on another switch. I tried reinserting the ribbon cable on the left and I'm sure it's inserted well now.

Please let me know where on the board should I look to find the most probable issue (broken trace or component)? What options might I have to fix it?

check around here if you have broken the ic

 

[Data-Bin]

I have an OLED Switch I'm working on that seemed to have previous water damage, when I got it still was pulling 0.46 amps, but never showed a battery symbol on screen or powered up. I tested around to see if there was anything related to the IC chips but didn't find any obvious shorts, which left me clueless as of where to go. I swapped the usb port & m92 just to be sure that the charging amperage I was seeing wasn't a false positive, but alas I'm left with the same outcome. The 3v3v, & 1.8v seem okay, so it left me thinking that possibly the nand, apu or ram were blame.

While inspecting around the board I found these ripped/corroded pads near the nand. So basically my question is are they related to the nand or some other chip that is needed to start the system or show anything on screen? Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[deeps]

I ...

this is the picofly thread and your post has nothing to do with picofly

 

[Data-Bin]

this is the picofly thread and your post has nothing to do with picofly

I've been told to post questions related to fixing switches here & I've had people help with questions I had on here before.

 

[deeps]

I've been told to post questions related to fixing switches here & I've had people help with questions I had on here before.

in this forum, yes. In the picofly thread, no. If you have picofly problems you can post in this thread. For other problems, find a suitable thread or make your own.

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

I have an OLED Switch I'm working on that seemed to have previous water damage, when I got it still was pulling 0.46 amps, but never showed a battery symbol on screen or powered up. I tested around to see if there was anything related to the IC chips but didn't find any obvious shorts, which left me clueless as of where to go. I swapped the usb port & m92 just to be sure that the charging amperage I was seeing wasn't a false positive, but alas I'm left with the same outcome. The 3v3v, & 1.8v seem okay, so it left me thinking that possibly the nand, apu or ram were blame.

While inspecting around the board I found these ripped/corroded pads near the nand. So basically my question is are they related to the nand or some other chip that is needed to start the system or show anything on screen? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Hi-res pictures can be found here :
https://files.zzattack.org/index.php?dir=img/console/switch/oled/Layers
Nothing seems to be attached to these pads. No connections to other layers either :