Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Viktorsilva]

Decided to use a thin wire for the 3.3v connection, because I had a mishap trying to do it with a thicker wire. The wire broke off when I was putting the heatsink back on and ended up cover the area with solder, which when I wicked it away had also removed the capacitors. I ended up soldering different size capacitors because that's what I have on hand. Just want someone to confirm the capacitors used on my V1 Switch and a thin wire for power is alright? I knocked off the 10nf cap and the one that goes to the 3.3v line. I was able to solder the larger 10nF I had by scrapping away some surface and solder it that way, but the 3.3v cap is listed as either 1uF or 2.2uF and I went with the 2.2uF. Is that fine for my Switch? I haven't plugged in the Switch yet because I'm waiting for a new microscope to come in so I can actually see what I did. The picture quality of my current scope is just trash.

I stopped using that 3.3v point on v1&v2 because it is very fragile. Just go for the 3.3v on nand. it´s a double pad to solder in.Mutch easier and solid work.

Post automatically merged: Mar 7, 2024

I’m using hotplate just the normal PTC plate 450w. 150x90mm size and max temp of 200deg +/-15.

0201s takes a lot of time to assemble. In 3hrs+ i just manage to assemble only 15pcs. Next time ill just use the 0402 variant.

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congratulations, wonderfull work

 

[Dukenukemx]

I stopped using that 3.3v point on v1&v2 because it is very fragile. Just go for the 3.3v on nand. it´s a double pad to solder in.Mutch easier and solid work.

Wish I knew before making all these mistakes. The RP2040-Tiny seems to work and I'm now able to write to the nand without errors. Tried to rebuild the nand after watching the video and I'm still stuck at the Switch logo. This happens with and without launching Atmos. After a number of tries I get 2164-0501.

 

[Endracion]

I stopped using that 3.3v point on v1&v2 because it is very fragile. Just go for the 3.3v on nand. it´s a double pad to solder in.Mutch easier and solid work.

Post automatically merged: Mar 7, 2024

congratulations, wonderfull work

Is there a source to see alternate soldering points?

 

[MoeXzl]

Hi, the most common ones have already been mentioned here.
Are you looking for something specific?

 

[Endracion]

The different 3v3 mentioned above for one. And on the OLED are there any others for RST than behind the board?

 

[psycho-neon]

Wish I knew before making all these mistakes. The RP2040-Tiny seems to work and I'm now able to write to the nand without errors. Tried to rebuild the nand after watching the video and I'm still stuck at the Switch logo. This happens with and without launching Atmos. After a number of tries I get 2164-0501.

If it was re built, have you tried running the sysmmc cfw once in the hekate?

 

[dehydrated_lemur]

uh

Tinyfly v2.0 - the layout is based on the well known rp2040-tiny from waveshare but made for switch.

1. All necessary pads are exposed and the LED DIN as well.
2. Resistors and capacitors are 0402 size for easier soldering
3. Default D0,CMD,CLK resistors are 100,100,47ohm respectively

I've attached here the gerber file and bom/pick and place files.

Updates:
Tinyfly v2.0.zip - Initial Release
Tinyfly v2.0b.zip - Added extra pads for GND and 3V3 line on the right side. Swapped CPU and RST at the bottom part. Some components are changed to basic parts if planning to fabricate using JLCPCB.

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if anyone wants to go in on ordering some of these I'm down

 

[psycho-neon]

uh
if anyone wants to go in on ordering some of these I'm down

They work great. If you wanna order with the components make sure to order more quantities to get the best discount. 100pcs will be 2usd ea including shipping.

 

[dehydrated_lemur]

They work great. If you wanna order with the components make sure to order more quantities to get the best discount. 100pcs will be 2usd ea including shipping.

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that's exactly why I wanted to see if anyone wants to go in with me. I would love to try this

 

[superxoi]

I’m using hotplate just the normal PTC plate 450w. 150x90mm size and max temp of 200deg +/-15.

0201s takes a lot of time to assemble. In 3hrs+ i just manage to assemble only 15pcs. Next time ill just use the 0402 variant.

View attachment 424293
View attachment 424296

I am using ptc plate too. It heats rapidly and conveniently. Can i add 47ohm instead of 100ohm on data0 and cmd. TBH 100ohm causing me trouble with long glitching time(samsung emmc) than 47ohm. I have switched to used 47ohm at default because of the glitching time.

 

[psycho-neon]

I am using ptc plate too. It heats rapidly and conveniently. Can i add 47ohm instead of 100ohm on data0 and cmd. TBH 100ohm causing me trouble with long glitching time(samsung emmc) than 47ohm. I have switched to used 47ohm at default because of the glitching time.

Yes it is okay. I've been using 100/100/47 due to v1 compatibility and it works for all switches without any further modification. Long glitches I did not encounter yet. Mostly hynix chips has issues. The one i posted yesterday with video has samsung chip v2, and glitches instantly like 1sec.

 

[superxoi]

Yes it is okay. I've been using 100/100/47 due to v1 compatibility and it works for all switches without any further modification. Long glitches I did not encounter yet. Mostly hynix chips has issues. The one i posted yesterday with video has samsung chip v2, and glitches instantly like 1sec.

The long glitching happend to be 100ohm on samsung specificaly, not always but sometime. Skhynix and toshiba glitching time about 6-7s but stable ones and i can use either 47 and 100ohm on these two. After some devices return with long glitching time on samsung emmc i have to use 47ohm again on samsung.

 

[bvang913]

Got an OLED SKHynix, single mosfet on the back. Still trying to get through some of these bad chips, so I flashed FW 2.67 for the error code. I believe this is showing cyan, so is that just telling me to check the mosfet? Just boots to ofw.

Nvm. Got it. The wire from mosfet came off while putting it back together. No SD

 

[etnicor]

Because it is busted or you burnt it when you are connecting the point A and thus giving you purple screen error. That's the real reason for the purple screen and not the chip. If you have a hot air gun, you can try and reflow it, most of the time the solder connecting the resistor gets disconnected when you solder the wire.

If you will not fix it, then your switch wont work unfortunately even without the mod chip.

You can use 0402 or 0603 and wire it manually if you have difficulty with 0201.

Thx for tip on CMD resistor. Replaced it and now everything works, currently dumping emmc.

Replacing it weren't that bad. With a microscope and some flux it went pretty fast. First time doing 0201 though.

 

[rehius]

Still trying to get through some of these bad chips

Just remove the wrongly placed LED pin pull-up

 

[Kiuxn]

I accidentally short-circuited, and the resistance at the position of the red circle on the picture burned. Who knows how big it is?

 

[psycho-neon]

I accidentally short-circuited, and the resistance at the position of the red circle on the picture burned. Who knows how big it is?

That's a fuse. It should be shorted as normal

 

[Kiuxn]

Thank you. What specifications should I buy to replace?

 

[psycho-neon]

Thank you. What specifications should I buy to replace?

0402 fast-acting fuse with 3A rating is enough.

 

[Kiuxn]

0402 fast-acting fuse with 3A rating is enough.

OK