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Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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BlueBeans said:
What do you mean? Like turn it on and off checking the error code? I can get two to work with the mosfets I have but never 1. Could the wiring be too thin?
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1 is enough i have never had any device return to me yet. Your wire size is sufficient . i use 0.2mm magnet wire too. I meant that you check the reading on that mosfet the drain ever be grounded or the gate ever have any reading.
 
superxoi said:
1 is enough i have never had any device return to me yet. Your wire size is sufficient . i use 0.2mm magnet wire too. I meant that you check the reading on that mosfet the drain ever be grounded or the gate ever have any reading.
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The drain is grounded. Both caps on the apu that get soldered to are the ground side.
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I’d really like to figure this out as I’ve never been able to use just one mosfet.
 
Last edited by BlueBeans,
BlueBeans said:
The drain is grounded. Both caps on the apu that get soldered to are the ground side.
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I’d really like to figure this out as I’ve never been able to use just one mosfet.
Click to expand...

here's what mine usually look like (and it always works)
 

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deeps said:
here's what mine usually look like (and it always works)
Click to expand...
Ok I’ll give this a try. Thank you.
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deeps said:
here's what mine usually look like (and it always works)
Click to expand...
It’s still doing the same thing. The mosfet I’m using is a IRH 8342.
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Now all I get is ** RST not connected. It is ver much connected and clean.
 
Last edited by BlueBeans,
BlueBeans said:
Ok I’ll give this a try. Thank you.
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It’s still doing the same thing. The mosfet I’m using is a IRH 8342.
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Now all I get is ** RST not connected. It is ver much connected and clean.
Click to expand...
The mosfet type is ok. I have at least 30 installs now with the same mosfet and always in single configuration.
One thing I always do is that I pre-tin the wire in the places where it's going to be soldered to make sure that the enamel coating is gone. A little blob of solder on the tip of the iron (400°) and a little bit of flux on the specific spot on the wire, hold the wire inside solder blob for a couple of seconds (it turns black then evaporates) and you are good to go.
 
QuiTim said:
The mosfet type is ok. I have at least 30 installs now with the same mosfet and always in single configuration.
One thing I always do is that I pre-tin the wire in the places where it's going to be soldered to make sure that the enamel coating is gone. A little blob of solder on the tip of the iron (400°) and a little bit of flux on the specific spot on the wire, hold the wire inside solder blob for a couple of seconds (it turns black then evaporates) and you are good to go.
Click to expand...
That’s what I do as well 😪 what size wire are you using?
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I use the same wire when I do it with a flex cable and have zero problems
 
BlueBeans said:
That’s what I do as well 😪 what size wire are you using?
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I use the same wire when I do it with a flex cable and have zero problems
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Same one 0.2mm. In the photo I was trying out different mosfets but as you can see the wiring is the same. I don't know, it's weird, everything looks ok...
 

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QuiTim said:
Same one 0.2mm. In the photo I was trying out different mosfets but as you can see the wiring is the same. I don't know, it's weird, everything looks ok...
Click to expand...
Yeah I just don’t get it. Do you use different wire for the cpu or is it all the same?
 
QuiTim said:
Ok, so points 1-1-1 all have continuity right? As well as points 2-2?
Nr.3 Is that glue or solder?
Lets get to the bottom of this thing :)
Click to expand...
Those all have continuity. 1 to 1 and 1-2. 3 had an ohms reading of 14. #3 was solder.
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I’m curious though. Source and drain are being connected to ground points on the apu. The caps we connect to is the ground side.
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Point 3 is not soldered to the shield like it looks. Was just sitting on top.
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There has been progress. Someone suggested to me about pulling a mosfet from a v1 flex and it worked the first time! Idk if maybe I got a bad batch of mosfet but I’ll be either ordering more or ordering some of the ones from the v1 flex. Here are the mosfets if anyone is interested.

https://www.lcsc.com/mobile/product-detail/MOSFETs_NATLINEAR-NP2016DR-N-G_C2991144.html
 
Last edited by BlueBeans,
BlueBeans said:
Those all have continuity. 1 to 1 and 1-2. 3 had an ohms reading of 14. #3 was solder.
Post automatically merged:

I’m curious though. Source and drain are being connected to ground points on the apu. The caps we connect to is the ground side.
Post automatically merged:

Point 3 is not soldered to the shield like it looks. Was just sitting on top.
Post automatically merged:

There has been progress. Someone suggested to me about pulling a mosfet from a v1 flex and it worked the first time! Idk if maybe I got a bad batch of mosfet but I’ll be either ordering more or ordering some of the ones from the v1 flex. Here are the mosfets if anyone is interested.

https://www.lcsc.com/mobile/product-detail/MOSFETs_NATLINEAR-NP2016DR-N-G_C2991144.html
Click to expand...
Well that explains it. Might be some fake/bad batch.
I ordered from both of these they are all good:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNCXyTI
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNwL9g8
 
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hi, can someone send me a diagram of where data + and data - are on the rp2040 zero to hook up a usb 2 cable to reprogram? I have an orange light on bootup and no CFW loading
 
BlueBeans said:
Trying the single mosfet again. Is this how it is supposed to look? When I put it all together my error code was ==*. Drain and Source are grounded but not touching. Is that right?
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or you can do like this, never failed on me.
 

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