Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

linkref

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Hello everyone, i have an oled switch that have already installed rp2040 in 2 months ago. But it was suddenly stop working and blinking **= which is no eMMC block 1 read like in the manuals. Do anyone know what is the problem? Thanks alot
View attachment 394296
I had this on switch lite, it was bad solder join
 
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FreeLander

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Hello guys, Pio Tiny installed on V1 and got slow emmc, I would add another 47 resistor to dat0 but I don't know if I should just solder it directly to the pad given one is already soldered. How do I go on about this? Please advise.
 

abal1000x

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Hello guys, Pio Tiny installed on V1 and got slow emmc, I would add another 47 resistor to dat0 but I don't know if I should just solder it directly to the pad given one is already soldered. How do I go on about this? Please advise.
If you're not using v2.75, try to use it.
 

FreeLander

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Last edited by FreeLander,
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yuraina

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Anyone know what is this chip version in my oled ?
I bought on my local store
 

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LuigiGad

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Hey guys. I know we can also install the rp2040 on erista v1 unpatched. In this scenario is the installation the same like the other chips? (solder wires to testpoints and without using cpu cable)
same and identical procedure as the mariko. always remember to check if the emmc goes into slow mode. check in the info. and do a further check such as start the benchmark and stop it immediately. on an Erista at first glance it was fine but after the benchmark I had the slow mode then resolved with additional 47ohm on cmd and dat0
 

deeps

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same and identical procedure as the mariko. always remember to check if the emmc goes into slow mode. check in the info. and do a further check such as start the benchmark and stop it immediately. on an Erista at first glance it was fine but after the benchmark I had the slow mode then resolved with additional 47ohm on cmd and dat0

or just do 100/100/47 by default.
 
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deeps

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Personally I think it's a waste of resistance. also because I assemble the PicoFly well in advance. and I repeat on more than 100 switches only the Eristas needed the double resistor.

does your local electronics store charge you per ohm of resistance.....?
 

LuigiGad

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does your local electronics store charge you per ohm of resistance.....?
obviously I'm not making an economic argument about it, if it's not necessary, why double the resistances when, according to general indications, it's not necessary? I have also read about users who have had problems due to having doubled the resistances by default. then I say why create problems with your own hands?
 

deeps

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obviously I'm not making an economic argument about it, if it's not necessary, why double the resistances when, according to general indications, it's not necessary? I have also read about users who have had problems due to having doubled the resistances by default. then I say why create problems with your own hands?

because 47/47/47 works well on 80 out of 100 switches while 100/100/47 works well on 98 out of 100 switches.
And the problems caused by 100/100/47 are more immediate and impossible to miss while 47/47/47 sometimes leads to ofw instability which is easy to miss during an install. It's simply a game of numbers - if you want fewer headaches, 100/100/47 by default makes sense.
 

LuigiGad

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because 47/47/47 works well on 80 out of 100 switches while 100/100/47 works well on 98 out of 100 switches.
And the problems caused by 100/100/47 are more immediate and impossible to miss while 47/47/47 sometimes leads to ofw instability which is easy to miss during an install. It's simply a game of numbers - if you want fewer headaches, 100/100/47 by default makes sense.
I personally don't agree. in my experience obviously.
 

LogicalMadness

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because 47/47/47 works well on 80 out of 100 switches while 100/100/47 works well on 98 out of 100 switches.
And the problems caused by 100/100/47 are more immediate and impossible to miss while 47/47/47 sometimes leads to ofw instability which is easy to miss during an install. It's simply a game of numbers - if you want fewer headaches, 100/100/47 by default makes sense.

What issues have 100\100\47 caused? Guess I missed someone posting about it.
 

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twins333

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https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/page-652#post-10242089
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/page-652#post-10242197

meanwhile several other installers here report 0 issues with 100/100/47 while tons of people keep asking about why they're getting slow emmc with 47/47/47
In the second link where you quoted me, the problem was more related to the new rp2040 tiny, rather than the resistance value. In that case the issue might have been with improper soldering or uncleaned flux, since we did not do further testing due to lack of time. This is not a good example.
 
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LogicalMadness

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In the second link where you quoted me, the problem was more related to the new rp2040 tiny, rather than the resistance value. In that case the issue might have been with improper soldering or uncleaned flux, since we did not do further testing due to lack of time. This is not a good example.

Then it appears there haven't been any issues w\ 100\100\47 UNLESS you happen to be using a Pico (MAYBE a tiny), and even then it's still just a chance. Definitely sticking with the 100\100\47 configuration. I'd love to hear @rehius' opinion though.
 

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