Hakko FX888 good for switch mods?

[Blakejansen]

I wanted to pick up a hakko fx 888d but I am not sure if the handle is too big for the OLED instinct install. I know there are clone stations that are recommended, but is this mod doable with the hakko? I would rather have a branded station than unbranded if possible. What tip should I use for the mod install if I do go with the fx 888d? Was thinking about using a J-tip, but I want to make sure the hakko will work before I buy tips.

 

[Hayato213]

It is quite popular, but it still come down to your soldering skills.

 

[SylverReZ]

I tend to prefer a Quicko T12 soldering station for most of my soldering.

 

[Blakejansen]

It is quite popular, but it still come down to your soldering skills.

It's always hard to say what is skill and what is tools. My hands were shaking uncontrollably and then I got a microscope. No shaking now and I can put the iron exactly where I want it to go.

What tip should I use if I got with the fx888?

 

[Hayato213]

It's always hard to say what is skill and what is tools. My hands were shaking uncontrollably and then I got a microscope. No shaking now and I can put the iron exactly where I want it to go.

What tip should I use if I got with the fx888?

I believe the Hakko come with T18-D16 Chisel tip, but then again it come down to your soldering skill, if you were doing OLED you would want a microscope.

 

[ppeach]

T18-C05, T18-K, and T18-BR02 are recommended.

 

[Blakejansen]

I tend to prefer a Quicko T12 soldering station for most of my soldering.

Have you used an FX888 to compare? I may just order a t12 station and give the one I am not using to family.

 

[SylverReZ]

Have you used an FX888 to compare? I may just order a t12 station and give the one I am not using to family.

Not really, Hakko irons are way too expensive.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

I wanted to pick up a hakko fx 888d but I am not sure if the handle is too big for the OLED instinct install. I know there are clone stations that are recommended, but is this mod doable with the hakko? I would rather have a branded station than unbranded if possible. What tip should I use for the mod install if I do go with the fx 888d? Was thinking about using a J-tip, but I want to make sure the hakko will work before I buy tips.

Handle is too big? That's not a thing. Nobody ever in the history of soldering has had problems with the handle being too big. Your hands are bigger than the handle in any case, but you're not putting the handle down into your work. The soldering tip is what matters, and there are a wide variety of soldering tips available for the FX-888D that will suit any job.

The FX-888D is a great soldering station for both beginners and advanced users. They have better models, but those also cost more.
Notably, the FX-951 has the heater embedded in the soldering tip, this makes the tip heat up faster, makes the temperature more accurate, and makes it stay at that temperature better, even when soldering large components or ground planes that suck a lot of heat away. Making the FX-951 a better model, if you can afford it.
I didn't know about any of this when I bought the FX-888D, or I might've gone with the FX-951, but I don't regret my purchase. It has handled anything I threw at it with ease.

Edit: As for the tips to get. Some chisel tips and bevel tips in different sizes depending on what kind of work you are planning to do should have you sorted. Some people really like the bent conical tips, I don't have one so I have no opinions on them. Chisel tips and bevel tips have been plenty enough for me. The bevel tips are very useful for drag soldering SMD chips with many legs quickly, the chisel tips are more general use, but both can be used for general use.

 

[l7777]

Handle is too big? That's not a thing. Nobody ever in the history of soldering has had problems with the handle being too big. Your hands are bigger than the handle in any case, but you're not putting the handle down into your work. The soldering tip is what matters, and there are a wide variety of soldering tips available for the FX-888D that will suit any job.

The FX-888D is a great soldering station for both beginners and advanced users. They have better models, but those also cost more.
Notably, the FX-951 has the heater embedded in the soldering tip, this makes the tip heat up faster, makes the temperature more accurate, and makes it stay at that temperature better, even when soldering large components or ground planes that suck a lot of heat away. Making the FX-951 a better model, if you can afford it.
I didn't know about any of this when I bought the FX-888D, or I might've gone with the FX-951, but I don't regret my purchase. It has handled anything I threw at it with ease.

Edit: As for the tips to get. Some chisel tips and bevel tips in different sizes depending on what kind of work you are planning to do should have you sorted. Some people really like the bent conical tips, I don't have one so I have no opinions on them. Chisel tips and bevel tips have been plenty enough for me. The bevel tips are very useful for drag soldering SMD chips with many legs quickly, the chisel tips are more general use, but both can be used for general use.

This. Another option is the TS-100 based irons. They also have the heater in the tip and gain the advantages of the 951 without the expense.

 

[Blakejansen]

Handle is too big? That's not a thing. Nobody ever in the history of soldering has had problems with the handle being too big. Your hands are bigger than the handle in any case, but you're not putting the handle down into your work. The soldering tip is what matters, and there are a wide variety of soldering tips available for the FX-888D that will suit any job.

The FX-888D is a great soldering station for both beginners and advanced users. They have better models, but those also cost more.
Notably, the FX-951 has the heater embedded in the soldering tip, this makes the tip heat up faster, makes the temperature more accurate, and makes it stay at that temperature better, even when soldering large components or ground planes that suck a lot of heat away. Making the FX-951 a better model, if you can afford it.
I didn't know about any of this when I bought the FX-888D, or I might've gone with the FX-951, but I don't regret my purchase. It has handled anything I threw at it with ease.

Edit: As for the tips to get. Some chisel tips and bevel tips in different sizes depending on what kind of work you are planning to do should have you sorted. Some people really like the bent conical tips, I don't have one so I have no opinions on them. Chisel tips and bevel tips have been plenty enough for me. The bevel tips are very useful for drag soldering SMD chips with many legs quickly, the chisel tips are more general use, but both can be used for general use.

For certain irons they sell different handle. The JBC clones have C210 C245 C115 handles, I read they were all for different jobs. Maybe you can explain the whole handle thing for the soldering stations I am talking about.

I mainly want to mod an oled switch and the tips on the t12 clones seem smaller.

 

[impeeza]

It is quite popular, but it still come down to your soldering skills.

My micro soldering skills are none but I can make very good traditional electronic welding, any source to learn micro soldering? temps, settings, etc.? thanks.

 

[Hayato213]

My micro soldering skills are none but I can make very good traditional electronic welding, any source to learn micro soldering? temps, settings, etc.? thanks.

It just take practice, a microscope will definitely help.

 

[impeeza]

It just take practice, a microscope will definitely help.

I will need an electrons microscope , my sight is getting bad. for now I have a Cheap 10X wifi microscope, It "do" the work.

Post automatically merged: Jun 29, 2023

It just take practice, a microscope will definitely help.

but really I am very obsesive, how can I learn about the recommended temp ranges, use of different tips, etc. thanks.

 

[jkyoho]

but really I am very obsesive, how can I learn about the recommended temp ranges, use of different tips, etc. thanks.

The more you do in different scenes the more you learn, switch is just one of the simple PCB easy to work on. When you go to PLAYSTATION or Xbox, it's night mare for hot air station or soldering station. They have different level of multilayer PCB and huge mount of ground area suck up your temperature out of your tools.

 

[lwiz]

I wanted to pick up a hakko fx 888d but I am not sure...

The FX-888D is a great soldering station for both beginners and advanced users. They have better models, but those also cost more.
Notably, the FX-951 has the heater embedded in the soldering tip, this makes the tip heat up faster, makes the temperature more accurate, and makes it stay at that temperature better, even when soldering large components or ground planes that suck a lot of heat away. Making the FX-951 a better model, if you can afford it.

Thanks a lot mentioning Hakko irons - been eyeing Weller ones (and cheap reseller in EU region) but it seems Hakko will be the one I go for when it's time to purchase. Prolly 951 if it still can be bought, the replacement model - fx-971 - might go over my budget. I have an old manual Weller SMD station, but getting a new grip it sorely needs could be problematic. And digital temp control is just so much more accurate.

And tbh, I kinda like the playful gamecubeish/N64ish look of 888D and 951 in contrast of the more "serious" industrial look.

 

[l7777]

My micro soldering skills are none but I can make very good traditional electronic welding, any source to learn micro soldering? temps, settings, etc.? thanks.

It's less about settings and more about how much heat you need and where. Tip selection plays a big part in this.

I would say it's worse to have the temp too low than too high. Using a lower temp won't prevent you from burning components, you control that by how long you put the iron on a thing. Personally I use a TS-100 Iron and keep the temp ~333 degrees C. If I am soldering something like a ground plane that can suck away a lot of heat I will use the boost function for max temp. Higher temp allows you to melt the solder and remove the heat faster than a lower temp. Low temp means you have to hold the iron on the components longer and ultimately more heat will transfer to the components. Another problem you can have with low temp is the iron sticking to the thing your working on. This happens because the solder starts to melt, but the components suck away the heat too quickly causing the solder to solidify to the iron and work. If you panic and pull you stand a good chance of pulling pads or components off too. If your patient and wait you've transferred a lot more heat to the components than you needed to. Tip selection plays a part in this as well. Small tips do not have a lot of thermal mass and can be cooled off very quickly leading to the previous problem as well.

Some things that help:

• Powerful Iron with good temp control. This will help combat the heat loss when working on large components or multi layered boards. Hakko, Pinecile, TS-100 Irons are all descent choices. The key component being the heated tips rather than a heater in the iron that heats a hollow tip.
• Microscope. A bi or trinocular scope with corresponding barlo lens and light are invaluable. Yes expensive but it will pay you back in headaches as you will be able to truly see whats happening even with very small components. Bonus, they make splinter removal easier too.
• Something to test with. Get an old laptop or something that is already broken to practice on. Attach wires, remove/replace components, etc... until you're comfortable with it. Then you can try inexpenseive working things and try to remove/replace components or even swap components between things. If it still works, you've been successful.
• A heated work mat. This will help with multi-layer boards and large components by raising the ambient temp of everything. The idea being that the solder is closer to the melting point and will thus take less time and heat from the iron or hot air station to remove/replace/reflow.
• Good flux. This one can't be overstated. There are many types. I use amtech NC-559-V2-TF. Does not need to be cleaned and provides some adhesion for the components.
• Watch others repair things. There are plenty of people doing microsoldering in youtube videos.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Thanks a lot mentioning Hakko irons - been eyeing Weller ones (and cheap reseller in EU region) but it seems Hakko will be the one I go for when it's time to purchase. Prolly 951 if it still can be bought, the replacement model - fx-971 - might go over my budget. I have an old manual Weller SMD station, but getting a new grip it sorely needs could be problematic. And digital temp control is just so much more accurate.

And tbh, I kinda like the playful gamecubeish/N64ish look of 888D and 951 in contrast of the more "serious" industrial look.

From what I've heard, Weller soldering stations (at least the entry level ones I have seen sold here, I'm sure they have higher end options at a higher cost) are rather mediocre quality. That's why I ended up with Hakko, since even their entry level models are well engineered.

I don't mind the retro aesthethic myself. The FX-888D is also available in silver, but I always liked their signature blue and yellow.

 

[lwiz]

Weller ued to be bees knees in the 80's-90's when I was more in the loop - But things could surely have changed since due complacency and whatnot. Thus the thread have been a nice refresher and eye opener for me.

Actually I bit the bullet, considered my needs against the options and ended up ordering FX-888D so thank you all giving insight on tips etc.

 

[Blakejansen]

From what I've heard, Weller soldering stations (at least the entry level ones I have seen sold here, I'm sure they have higher end options at a higher cost) are rather mediocre quality. That's why I ended up with Hakko, since even their entry level models are well engineered.

I don't mind the retro aesthethic myself. The FX-888D is also available in silver, but I always liked their signature blue and yellow.

Can you please explain the handle differences between the C115 and C245 handles? I was also confused since I thought handle size didn't matter.