for the apu cap wires you'll want at least 0.2mm diameter wire, which means AWG30-AWG34 is suitable. for cmd/clk/rst/cpu/dat0 the easiest to deal with is 0.1mm diameter wire, meaning AWG38-AWG40. It is doable with larger wire, but the solder pads are very tiny and larger wire than necessary increases the risk of accidentally pulling and ripping pads off the board. 3v3/gnd can be awg30-awg36.
Hello, I will try soldering mosfets without flex cable for picofly mod after mosfets come. But I did not know why sometimes on schema there is one mosfet and on the others 2 mosfets. Should I use two IRFHS8342TRPBF or just one is sufficient? Whats the difference when using two mosfets? Also when using 2 mosfets I noticed two "G Mosfet" https://gbatemp.net/attachments/marikodual-mosfet-jpg.363515/ https://gbatemp.net/attachments/marikodual-mosfet-jpg.363515/ going to CPU pin of RP2040 - Connecting just one is sufficient? Or do I need to connect two of these points to the same pin of RP2040?
Some people have had problems with only using one and got it working when using two. I'm not certain if the number of mosfets has been the actual issue though - I think it's more likely that the first one just wasn't working properly. Anyway, you can always test with one and add another if the rp2040 gives you cyan light.
Theoretically one mosfet is able to handle the current, people have been using two to make it easier to connect to both caps.
congrats your switch is booting into RCM mode. /s (dont worry I've done the same)Sorry can anyone help meI broke a pin at the CMD point, now the switch won't turn on. Is there anything I can do to save the situation?
The only way to get it to work is to reconnect the trace which goes off on the red line basically, 2-3 layers deep
you can check the board scans here
but I would recommend a professional to repair it
I killed this pico later, when unsuccessfully tried to put USB back. This method is ok and pico working good even without USB traces.
so i manage to solder mosfet to wire (its crazy hard)
basicly, i make their legs....
cuz i dont wanted the wire came off, im gonna use uv mask....
but...
how to use this uv mask ???
i never try use them ?
should i use brush or toothpick ?
how to dry them fast ? without uv light ? ( idont have uv light)
basicly, i make their legs....
cuz i dont wanted the wire came off, im gonna use uv mask....
but...
how to use this uv mask ???
i never try use them ?
should i use brush or toothpick ?
how to dry them fast ? without uv light ? ( idont have uv light)
Use a toothpick as it is better to handle. You can get a UV light bulb for 50 cents to your nearest electonic store.
I cant see anything wrong with those mosfets as far as the size is concerned. These are very tiny packages that should fit beside the APU die. Check these pics from my install. You will definately need a good microscope.
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I use 380C with a T12 soldering station. High temps quickly melt the tin without burning components through low temps prologed contact...
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yes, I looked at another board that I have and I saw that it does not give continuity, so I suppose that the other capacitor may be shorted, since it is very clean, and removing the other capacitor that shows continuity would be too much, I mean, leaving the processor without 2 capacitors, that's a lot, right?
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