Hardware Hall Effect sensor joycon sticks on Amazon

[NeoHoth]

I did not know those existed, thanks. The issue with those and Gulikit's are the PCB size. I have my own stick PCB's that are a very specific size and form factor, I'd have to re-design and enlarge parts of the pad to make them fit. One thing I do see about those K-Silver's is that the sensor seem like they may be embedded in the stick itself and not the PCB. Gulikit's option requires the use of their PCB because it houses the hall effect sensors themselves along with some extra SMD components. If I can successfully re-home the K-Silver sticks into my own PCB's, that would be ideal. Thanks again for the links.

I'm still interested in fixing the Guilikit joycons though. Some people prefer joycons over standard full size controller sticks.

Wish I could recommend you K-Silver's Switch-like joysticks for your project those have none of these issues, but I bought the last 2 of them. Since then they have been out of stock for 2 months already.

 

[Cajumjoe]

I did not know those existed, thanks. The issue with those and Gulikit's are the PCB size. I have my own stick PCB's that are a very specific size and form factor, I'd have to re-design and enlarge parts of the pad to make them fit. One thing I do see about those K-Silver's is that the sensor seem like they may be embedded in the stick itself and not the PCB. Gulikit's option requires the use of their PCB because it houses the hall effect sensors themselves along with some extra SMD components. If I can successfully re-home the K-Silver sticks into my own PCB's, that would be ideal. Thanks again for the links.

I'm still interested in fixing the Guilikit joycons though. Some people prefer joycons over standard full size controller sticks.

You shouldn't need to remake the whole arm. This can be fixed by filling the contact area by around 0.20mm. Here's the kind of piece that should be enough. The hole where it sits goes a bit deeper, but that should actually help to keep the piece in place.
Is it possible to 3D print something this thin and fragile?

 

[tuffrabit]

View attachment 349863

You shouldn't need to remake the whole arm. This can be fixed by filling the contact area by around 0.20mm. Here's the kind of piece that should be enough. The hole where it sits goes a bit deeper, but that should actually help to keep the piece in place.
Is it possible to 3D print something this thin and fragile?

So, you're saying instead of recreating the entire arm, just fabricate a small filler block? Something approximately 3.06mm by 1.75mm by 0.2mm?

Yes I can 3D print something that thin. Modern consumer printers can print things a good deal smaller than that. A UV resin printer especially can.

 

[Nephiel]

these K-Silver Hall Effect Joysticks

Slightly offtopic: wouldn't these fit the Nintendo Pro Controller? The form factor looks very similar (other than the PCB, which doesn't seem to have anything on it other than a SMD capacitor).

(edit: sorry, I just found out you already have another thread for that).

 

[Cajumjoe]

Sorry, ignore the top left piece, that was another fix but it's not required.

It's just this:

 

[tuffrabit]

Sorry, ignore the top left piece, that was another fix but it's not required.

It's just this:

View attachment 349864

We need a T shaped piece that is 0.2mm thick? That's quite easy. Could you send me the exact dimensions? I've got a set of Gulikit hall effect joycons on the way, but it's going to be like 4 - 6 weeks because it's Aliexpress. If you've got the dimensions I can 3D model this right now and share the STL/OBJ.

 

[Cajumjoe]

We need a T shaped piece that is 0.2mm thick? That's quite easy. Could you send me the exact dimensions? I've got a set of Gulikit hall effect joycons on the way, but it's going to be like 4 - 6 weeks because it's Aliexpress. If you've got the dimensions I can 3D model this right now and share the STL/OBJ.

Something like this. I would need to re-open one of my sticks to check the the exact measurements I currently have them all closed with the teflon triangle fix). The thinner part's thickness is approximately 0.20mm, and the wider one is close to 3mm (can be slightly longer).

 

[kylum]

To clarify, I did not have to send mine back. My refund wasn't started by me, the store did, which allows them to just refund instead of doing a return. If you request a refund through Amazon's system you'll have to return them.

They asked if I wanted a refund or replacement. I did not request through Amazon. I probably would have if you hadn’t posted what you did previously. That you for that!

 

[tuffrabit]

View attachment 349865
Something like this. I would need to re-open one of my sticks to check the the exact measurements I currently have them all closed with the teflon triangle fix). The thinner part's thickness is approximately 0.20mm, and the wider one is close to 3mm (can be slightly longer).

Appreciate that, thanks. If you ever open them back up, I'd love it if you took exact measurements for me.

 

[Cajumjoe]

Appreciate that, thanks. If you ever open them back up, I'd love it if you took exact measurements for me.

I'm already on it.

There you go. Have fun

 

[kylum]

I'm already on it.

There you go. Have fun

Quick question. Would it possibly be better to make a .2mm piece that fits under the the entire slider, filling up the full space of the black housing?

 

[Cajumjoe]

Quick question. Would it possibly be better to make a .2mm piece that fits under the the entire slider, filling up the full space of the black housing?

The slider underside isn't flat, and neither is the housing. There are some longitudinal raised lines along the slider, and also in the housing. They are not very protruding, but putting something there would probably make the slider not slide as smoothly.

Edit: I actually had tried that, and it didn't work for me because of the friction. Maybe it needed to be an even thinner piece?

 

[tuffrabit]

I'm already on it.

There you go. Have fun

Perfect. Here's an STL (3D model) and STEP file (CAD interchange) for that. If you're in the US, I'll happily print some and mail them to you to test.

 

[Cajumjoe]

Perfect. Here's an STL (3D model) and STEP file (CAD interchange) for that. If you're in the US, I'll happily print some and mail them to you to test.

I'm in Portugal, left edge of Europe, all the way across the Atlantic, but thanks anyway. I hope someone can test it and share if it works.

 

[tuffrabit]

I'm in Portugal, left edge of Europe, all the way across the Atlantic, but thanks anyway. I hope someone can test it and share if it works.

Do you have any local maker shops? Or friends with a 3D printer?

This perhaps? https://impressao3dportugal.pt/

 

[Cajumjoe]

Do you have any local maker shops? Or friends with a 3D printer?

This perhaps? https://impressao3dportugal.pt/

What material do you think it's best?

 

[tuffrabit]

What material do you think it's best?

Probably PETG. But that would be on an FDM machine where the resolution may or may not be good enough. Otherwise resin.

 

[Cajumjoe]

Probably PETG. But that would be on an FDM machine where the resolution may or may not be good enough. Otherwise resin.

PETG is 4 cents, resin is 5 euros XD
Shipping is 4 euros... I'll see if some friend closer can print this instead.

 

[Lamcza]

PETG is 4 cents, resin is 5 euros XD
Shipping is 4 euros... I'll see if some friend closer can print this instead.

It will be better to remake the whole part in resin than produce an additional part in pet but what do i know my cats eat my printer : o

 

[tuffrabit]

PETG is 4 cents, resin is 5 euros XD
Shipping is 4 euros... I'll see if some friend closer can print this instead.

Ah gotcha. It's a bummer international shipping what it is. Otherwise I'd send you like 50.