Jig dont Work after using it somes times.

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Hi everyone!
For some time now my Jig hasn't worked in my Switch because I've used it a few times because I don't often have the charger since I use it regularly on the go so the Auto RCM doesn't work much. I heard about a method which consisted in tampering with the inside of the Switch so that it always launches in RCM because if I understood correctly, the method consists in changing the route order of the CPU at startup to switch to RCM startup each time but we took a direct ban with this method. The question of the ban does not bother me because I have a patched Switch that I use for Online but I wanted to know the risks of the Hardware method with respect to the Switch as a whole to see if it does damage or not and if the answer is positive to know how or with whom one can modify that. I know the JoyCon bend method but I don't want to break my JoyCon for that and I want my unpatched Switch to definitely launch in RCM without having to worry.
 
Last edited by binkinator,
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Hi! The hack i have see is similar that the patched Switch hack but not the JoyCon bend so @ciaomao have show. But for the JoyCon Bend i have see that can easelly break the JoyCon pin on 3 videos and 2 GBAtemp posts but it is really dangerous for the JoyCon? I dont have money for buy 1 JoyCon or JoyCon pair all month or all 3 month... Last question: What solution exist with a Switch with useless pins? It is me i have make a error and here is not internal hack? If here is a other solution than the right pins i am happy to lissen it :)
 
Last edited by Feox,
The only "real" solution would be soldering in a trinket m0 for example. It is an internal payload pusher. Also called differently "modchip". Correctly soldered in you don't need a jig anymore because you have a chipbased "autorcm". I have chipped both of my switches and i'm happy with it. No jig needed anymore.
 
41f9aMr93FL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
Capture.PNG


You can try these two different RCM Jig, if they both doesn't work for you, maybe something is wrong with your rail.
 
This is a really slick looking jig hack!
The most simple and elegant joycon mod I have seen is something that the legendary mattytrog himself proposed. Just one wire to solder, only on one end of the cable, so extremely simple. The mod is totally invisible externally. You need to use a piece of wire and a USB-C plug (or a USB-C cable) to make it work. I tried it and it flawlessly gets me in RCM.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/howto-another-joycon-mod-ill-call-it-erm-screwhax.505903/
 
Hi! The hack i have see is similar that the patched Switch hack but not the JoyCon bend so @ciaomao have show. But for the JoyCon Bend i have see that can easelly break the JoyCon pin on 3 videos and 2 GBAtemp posts but it is really dangerous for the JoyCon? I dont have money for buy 1 JoyCon or JoyCon pair all month or all 3 month... Last question: What solution exist with a Switch with useless pins? It is me i have make a error and here is not internal hack? If here is a other solution than the right pins i am happy to lissen it :)
You only need to solder to the JoyCon rail flex ribbon, this piece is cheaply available and easy to replace.
 
You only need to solder to the JoyCon rail flex ribbon, this piece is cheaply available and easy to replace.
Have you a buy link of that piece? And a video about how to change it?
Post automatically merged:

The most simple and elegant joycon mod I have seen is something that the legendary mattytrog himself proposed. Just one wire to solder, only on one end of the cable, so extremely simple. The mod is totally invisible externally. You need to use a piece of wire and a USB-C plug (or a USB-C cable) to make it work. I tried it and it flawlessly gets me in RCM.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/howto-another-joycon-mod-ill-call-it-erm-screwhax.505903/
Only one wire, not 2? Have you a link or a video who explain the method?
 
And a video about how to change it?
For changing the whole rail, you have to teardown the switch until the metal shield is removed from the back of the console. You can solder, yes. But this is not really neccessary because replacing the old rail with a new one is much easier imho. Near the battery connection (or better said near the loudspeaker connection) is the connector for the rail. Open the latch carefully and remove the flex ribbon. Insert the new one and close the console. If you have steady hands, it should be easy.
 
Have you a buy link of that piece? And a video about how to change it?
Post automatically merged:


Only one wire, not 2? Have you a link or a video who explain the method?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002836080731.html
Just takes a few screws to replace, don't really need a guide for it.
Actually, if you'd like. You could buy one of those rails and permanently mod it for RCM and just use that as if it were a jig. It's probably more reliable than a jig, though I've never had any issues with jigs personally.
For changing the whole rail, you have to teardown the switch until the metal shield is removed from the back of the console. You can solder, yes. But this is not really neccessary because replacing the old rail with a new one is much easier imho. Near the battery connection (or better said near the loudspeaker connection) is the connector for the rail. Open the latch carefully and remove the flex ribbon. Insert the new one and close the console. If you have steady hands, it should be easy.
This would be on the JoyCon side of the rail so opening the Switch is not necessary.
 
Last edited by The Real Jdbye,
The most simple and elegant joycon mod I have seen is something that the legendary mattytrog himself proposed. Just one wire to solder, only on one end of the cable, so extremely simple. The mod is totally invisible externally. You need to use a piece of wire and a USB-C plug (or a USB-C cable) to make it work. I tried it and it flawlessly gets me in RCM.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/howto-another-joycon-mod-ill-call-it-erm-screwhax.505903/
Only one wire, not 2? Have you a link or a video whn explain the method?
41f9aMr93FL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
View attachment 343453

You can try these two different RCM Jig, if they both doesn't work for you, maybe something is wrong with your rail.
I think here is a thing so that... So in that case what we do really? Because i cant go on a standard shop and go to a factory return...
Post automatically merged:

You quoted the link, my friend! :P No video, but it's so simple, you don't need one. Just zoom in on the pictures.
Oh sorry... I dont have see the link with the all message i have ask a response...
 
I think here is a thing so that... So in that case what we do really? Because i cant go on a standard shop and go to a factory return...

Well you test the different version of jig, I couldn't get cheap 3d printed one to work, only the white one I shown actually worked for me when I tested an unpatched switch. If you got through few jigs and it still doesn't work might be that rail
 
Eh bien, vous testez les différentes versions de jig, je n'ai pas pu en obtenir une imprimée en 3D bon marché, seule la blanche que j'ai montrée a réellement fonctionné pour moi lorsque j'ai testé un commutateur non patché. Si vous avez traversé quelques gabarits et que cela ne fonctionne toujours pas, c'est peut-être ce rail

Well you test the different version of jig, I couldn't get cheap 3d printed one to work, only the white one I shown actually worked for me when I tested an unpatched switch. If you got through few jigs and it still doesn't work might be that rail
I dont know people with 3D print and i dont know where i can buy other jig (i have the 1 and 10 jig version so i need the 7 and 10 for try). I think the Team Xecuter website is a good point to go for ask but someone here have a link for the 7 and 10 version jig? I ask a link because i go ask on Team Xecuter but i prefer get 2 different link because i have listen a guy who have a set of screwdrivers in place of the jig... If my rail is destroy, who can repair that type of things? And sorry for the double response *. I am a newbie of this forum and i dont know how to delete a response *...
 
Last edited by Feox,
I personally wouldn't bother using a jig. Removing the right-joycon, inserting a jig, go in RCM, removing the jig, and re-inserting the right-joycon is too much of a hassle to me. Just mod your joycon, like I did. It's a simple procedure. There are several ways to do it. I just chose the simplest. Or even simpler, just use autoRCM. There are some precautions if going this way, especially if you're not the only one using your console. You don't want someone else leaving your Switch in RCM and draining the battery completely. But if you're the only user, you control what you're doing, so autoRCM is mostly safe.
 
I personally wouldn't bother using a jig. Removing the right-joycon, inserting a jig, go in RCM, removing the jig, and re-inserting the right-joycon is too much of a hassle to me. Just mod your joycon, like I did. It's a simple procedure. There are several ways to do it. I just chose the simplest. Or even simpler, just use autoRCM. There are some precautions if going this way, especially if you're not the only one using your console. You don't want someone else leaving your Switch in RCM and draining the battery completely. But if you're the only user, you control what you're doing, so autoRCM is mostly safe.
The rcm battery bug been fixed for ages. AutoRCM is the way to go now days. Even Daybreak preserve it. So it's very much the best way not to hurt the rails with a jig.
 
The rcm battery bug been fixed for ages. AutoRCM is the way to go now days. Even Daybreak preserve it. So it's very much the best way not to hurt the rails with a jig.
Interesting. So, in a scenario where someone turns on the Switch (with autoRCM installed), the screen stays black. It's waiting for a payload to be injected. What if the person never pushes the payload and leaves the Switch in that state? Wouldn't it just drain the battery completely, like it happened to so many people before? How does it behave now?
 
Interesting. So, in a scenario where someone turns on the Switch (with autoRCM installed), the screen stays black. It's waiting for a payload to be injected. What if the person never pushes the payload and leaves the Switch in that state? Wouldn't it just drain the battery completely, like it happened to so many people before? How does it behave now?
of course it would, that's how the switch recovery is made.
It's just to recharge it again. It won't kill the Switch.
 
of course it would, that's how the switch recovery is made.
It's just to recharge it again. It won't kill the Switch.
Ok, that was my understanding, so the reason why I wasn't recommending the use of autoRCM with other users (kids?) using the Switch, as you never know what they'll do. But then, what was the RCM battery bug you were mentioning? I might have missed info on that one.
 

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