Hardware USB-C replacement, USB not recognized - verification needed

[fnwhatnow]

Hey there,

I replaced my usb port on my switch trying to get to the bottom of my no HDMI issue. Everything seemed to work, charging etc, however I can no longer smash the stack in RCM mode because the switch isn't communicating over USB. I have replaced the USB-C more than once, and I have reflowed the P13usb ( I previously replaced it), no change.

Is there a way I can test the USB-C connections to see if I have correctly installed it? Like I said the charging and everything works and the unit worked except for the HDMI out before I changed it.

thanks!

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Hey there,

I replaced my usb port on my switch trying to get to the bottom of my no HDMI issue. Everything seemed to work, charging etc, however I can no longer smash the stack in RCM mode because the switch isn't communicating over USB. I have replaced the USB-C more than once, and I have reflowed the P13usb ( I previously replaced it), no change.

Is there a way I can test the USB-C connections to see if I have correctly installed it? Like I said the charging and everything works and the unit worked except for the HDMI out before I changed it.

thanks!

The problem is half the pins are actually hidden underneath the connector so it's hard to tell if they're properly soldered (and you obviously need a hot air station) and actually getting the heat underneath there can be tricky as well. But you can use a sacrificial USB-C cable with an end cut off and the wires stripped to test at least the front row of pins. As well as give them a good tug with some tweezers to make sure they are secure. They shouldn't be able to move at all.
If those are all good, and the pins inside the actual connector look fine, then most likely the pins hidden underneath are not soldered on properly and you need to apply more heat.
Charging would still work, because the power, ground and configuration pins are mirrored on both sides. But for full functionality both rows of pins need to be connected (apart from those ones)

 

[fnwhatnow]

The problem is half the pins are actually hidden underneath the connector so it's hard to tell if they're properly soldered (and you obviously need a hot air station) and actually getting the heat underneath there can be tricky as well. But you can use a sacrificial USB-C cable with an end cut off and the wires stripped to test at least the front row of pins. As well as give them a good tug with some tweezers to make sure they are secure. They shouldn't be able to move at all.
If those are all good, and the pins inside the actual connector look fine, then most likely the pins hidden underneath are not soldered on properly and you need to apply more heat.
Charging would still work, because the power, ground and configuration pins are mirrored on both sides. But for full functionality both rows of pins need to be connected (apart from those ones)

Yup I have a rework station and I am pretty confident that this is connected, but I was actually looking for a way to do a continuity test for those hidden pins. There was a user on here that had a method for testing the hidden pins but I have been unable to find the post that outlines that process. I have replaced the connector several times but I get the same results.

 

[fnwhatnow]

I went ahead and removed the USB-C connector again. It looks like I lifted a pin after mucking with it.

Could someone provide me with an alternate connection for this pin? It looks like this is a TX...

 

[Agilato]

Found this pin has direct continuity with that ripped off pin.

 

[Chocola]

Seems the TX1+ the pin that you lift, but don't worry, I'm sure that you can bridge this pin at any point of the board.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Found this pin has direct continuity with that ripped off pin.

View attachment 183670

It's possible, the IC of the image are the P13USB, the chipset used to out audio and video on Nintendo Switch

 

[fnwhatnow]

I just wanted to post again that I got the USB-C tegrasmash working correctly again. Let me explain how.

So test pad 2 and 3 are for D- and D+ on the USB-C. After looking at the points for an internal modchip I determined that these points are all I should need for this to work.
Tracing this out I was getting continuity between 2 and 3, that's not correct.

I removed the USB-C again and tested the pads directly, still those two contracts were bridged.

I remembered that during the USB-C install process and removal, probably 10 times during troubleshooting, I knocked off the components right above those test points. In the image that chip says 7c as well as the choke above it.

Turns out I mounted the choke the wrong way! I flipped it the correct way and now everything works as expected. well except for the Video out to tv, but I tested chokes back by the P13 chip and it looks like two of those are bad. I just need to figure out a source.

Thanks for all the help! I will open another thread for this video issue.