1. MrGolfMK4

    OP MrGolfMK4 Newbie
    Newcomer

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2019
    Messages:
    3
    Country:
    Germany
    Good evening ladies & Gentlemen.

    Few days ago, i received a rather old switch (with an HAC-CPU-10 board) which refused to do anything.
    Once finished checking the usual suspects on the board, i found out that the 1uf 16v 0805 mlcc next to the BQ24193 was shorted to ground.

    After switching it for a spare one, the short was gone and the console was charging (both in handheld and docked mode),
    but won't show anything on the Screen, yet the Touchscreen would work and even sound would be played upon touching the screen and/or disconnecting the JoyCons.

    Tried two additional known working screens, but they wouldn't work either.
    The only thing i'm getting is a working backlight and the above mentioned working sound.

    Double and tripple checked the components around M92T36, BQ24193 and P13USB,
    but none of them seem to be faulty.

    Since i'm running out of ideas (and since i haven't found any additional shorts),
    i'd know like to ask you if you've got any ideas on what might be wrong with this particular switch.


    Any Help would be highly appreciated :)


    Greetings from Germany,

    MrGolfMK4


    PS:
    I'm currently awaiting a shipment of the three chip's i've mentioned above,
    so i can't test if it'll be fixed by swapping them right now.
     
  2. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Fan
    Member

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2019
    Messages:
    319
    Country:
    United States
    You must check LCD connector, very common situation with bent pins.
     
    pop13_13, MrGolfMK4 and FXDX like this.
  3. MrGolfMK4

    OP MrGolfMK4 Newbie
    Newcomer

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2019
    Messages:
    3
    Country:
    Germany
    I'm sorry that i didn't respond earlier, but the past few days have been really busy both at work and at home.

    After seeing your hint regarding the LCD connector, i checked it again (this time with a microscope) and saw that there have been two pins which where quite bend.
    Pushed them back into place, reassembled everything and.... the console is now fully operational :)

    Thanks for your suggestion regarding said connector, it really saved me alot of hassle with this particular console.


    Merry christmas to everyone off you.

    MrGolfMK4
     
    pop13_13 and Agilato like this.
  4. Stevie_fadhil

    Stevie_fadhil Newbie
    Newcomer

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2018
    Messages:
    8
    Country:
    Canada
    Hey man,
    I have the same problem with my switch but only when docking to a tv..
    The rest is working fine..
    Any ideas of what's the component responsible for connecting the switch to a tv? GPU?
    Sorry but I had to ask..
     
  5. The Real Jdbye

    The Real Jdbye Always Remember 30/07/08
    Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2010
    Messages:
    18,748
    Country:
    Norway
    That would be the PI3USB30532 USB/DP matrix switch most likely.
    Does the LED on the dock light up at all? Does it go solid, or flash?
    Does the console still fast charge? You should be able to tell by how quickly it charges while playing, without fast charging it charges very slowly when playing, and might even stay at the same battery level.
    If the console doesn't fast charge, there may be an issue with the USB-C port itself.
    Also, one more thing (mostly out of curiosity), if you go into settings to select the HDMI output resolution, does it let you select any higher resolution than 480p? For some reason, some consoles that have a HDMI output issue won't let you select higher resolutions, it probably has some significance as to what the problem is, though I couldn't tell you what.
    That fixed docked mode too? Odd.
    And yes, that connector is extremely fragile... You're lucky you didn't break the flap off while trying to unbend the pins as that can be a pain to get back on. Or break any of the pins, as at that point you would be extremely unlikely to be able to repair it, though the connectors are for sale online, getting hot air anywhere near it will melt the plastic, you have to be extremely skilled.
     
    Agilato likes this.
  6. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Fan
    Member

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2019
    Messages:
    319
    Country:
    United States
    It is not actually that hard to replace LCD connector as it sounds you have to just follow procedure:

    1) Take off CPU Cover and connected NAND chip with cover under it to make sure nothing on the board will not pull out stuff such as nearby connectors.
    2) Heat treat the board for about 5 mins 200-250(C) to make sure all normal moisture that stuck between the layers has evaporated (skipping this step might result fully dead bubbled board).
    3) Slowly preheat ALL BOARD from other side up to 300(C) and after localize on area under connector and slowly take LCD connector off the board.
    4) After removing connector tin the soldering pads with leaded solder(i prefer 60/40) it will give room to heat board second time with lower temps without unnecessary overheat.
    5) Clean pads with IPA and put thinnest layer of no-clean flux you can on the row of pads and position your connector flux will hold connector on place and prevent from forming cold joints.
    6) Repeat heating process similar way as in step 3, surface tension will do the work.

    Main thing that board designed to radiate heat fast so when you preheating it from behind try to not stay on one area for a long time it will delaminate PCB.
    Better you will preheat all board less risk of damaging it you will have.

    I learn each of this step on my own failures so if you want to skip any of the steps be ready to take risks.
     
    pop13_13 and MrGolfMK4 like this.
  7. Stevie_fadhil

    Stevie_fadhil Newbie
    Newcomer

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2018
    Messages:
    8
    Country:
    Canada
    Thank you for your answer.
    Could you tell me where the PI3USB30532 USB/DP matrix switch is located on a HAC-S-US/AU/C0 (HAC-001) Model?
    And yes the green light stays solid green on the dock and I think the switch charges within a reasonable time..
    I didn't get a chance to play it yet still waiting for am sdcard and to exploit it using atmosphere..
     
  8. The Real Jdbye

    The Real Jdbye Always Remember 30/07/08
    Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2010
    Messages:
    18,748
    Country:
    Norway
    https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/ikTQ6tTjHE4O6VbZ.huge
    The chip with the red outline, closest to the USB-C port.
    You can test the nearby capacitor (not visible in the picture, its under the red outline), it should not be shorted to ground on both sides, only on one, if it is that's a sign either the capacitor or the chip is bad, but the chip can still be bad if the capacitor tests good.
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2019
    Stevie_fadhil likes this.
  9. Stevie_fadhil

    Stevie_fadhil Newbie
    Newcomer

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2018
    Messages:
    8
    Country:
    Canada
    Oh okay.
    Thanks a lot man, yeah there's a lot of capacitors there, should be fine tho..
    I'll check it out and let you know..
    Thanks for the tip
     
  10. Stevie_fadhil

    Stevie_fadhil Newbie
    Newcomer

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2018
    Messages:
    8
    Country:
    Canada
    Hello
    I have finally had the chance to open up my motherboard and check my switch..
    I did what you told me and no capacitor is shorted or grounded on both side, the motherboard looks new tho, I don't see any sign of a discoloring on any component.
    Could it be the usb-C port? I mean it's charging tho.
    So what's next?
     
  11. The Real Jdbye

    The Real Jdbye Always Remember 30/07/08
    Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2010
    Messages:
    18,748
    Country:
    Norway
    Look inside the port with a flashlight, see if you can see any bent or broken/missing pins. Most of the pins are not needed for charging, but if just one of them is bent or broken (and you didn't get lucky and it's a redundant ground pin), something is going to not work correctly. There are several different types of pins: Power (incl ground), negotiation, USB 3 data, and USB 2 data.
    Power and negotiation are always needed for anything more than slow charging.
    USB 2 data is not needed for anything important, just the USB 2.0 ports on the dock.
    DP alt mode (what the Switch uses) uses one or more USB 3 data pairs (out of 4), so that's the most important one.

    If the Switch is correctly fast charging that means power and negotiation are OK (I think those are the ones that will cause the flashing dock LED if they're broken, not sure), what you can do if you have a USB-C extension cable is to connect it to the dock and plug it into the Switch both ways, it might work in the backwards orientation if one of the pins are bent or broken, but the dock will not let you connect the Switch backwards unless you disassemble the dock. Which is not difficult to do by the way, just a few screws.
     
    Agilato likes this.
  12. Stevie_fadhil

    Stevie_fadhil Newbie
    Newcomer

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2018
    Messages:
    8
    Country:
    Canada
    Hello and thanks for your answer.
    So we're establishing that there are any issues with the motherboard, capacitors and IC are fine..
    And we're focusing on the USB C port instead..
    Okay then I'll check the pins carefully and let you know what happened for sure.
     
  13. The Real Jdbye

    The Real Jdbye Always Remember 30/07/08
    Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2010
    Messages:
    18,748
    Country:
    Norway
    Not sure, but the USB-C port seems the most likely and it's the easiest to check.
     
    Agilato likes this.
Draft saved Draft deleted
Loading...

Hide similar threads Similar threads with keywords - (Neither, handheld, Switch