Switch will not recognize that Joycon is attached, and cannot sync new joycons

Discussion in 'Switch - Console, Accessories & Hardware' started by Devon093, Aug 12, 2019.

  1. Devon093
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    Devon093 Member

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    @SolidSnakeUk89

    So I have a working LCD, checked the diodes and they seem good, as well as the inductor passthrough components and those seem alright. I suddenly noticed something i didnt see before, what appears to be a damaged IC near the LCD clip. It looked like a piece of glass was wedged underneath it, and it seems like its part of the chip itself. Pictures included/ (sorry they are bad pics)

    Before I test too much further do you think this could be my issue?

    @mattytrog

    Thanks for tagging in. I actually fixed the joycon issue, and had someone else assemble it for me. They then informed me of the new issue of not having video in handheld mode I post pictures of what appears to be a damaged component which perhaps you have an idea regarding it. Thanks in advance!
     

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  2. Retroboy

    Retroboy GBAtemp Advanced Maniac

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    ive had this same issue with 3 pairs of joycons, theyre dirty cheap, typical nintendo crap.
     
  3. The Real Jdbye

    The Real Jdbye Always Remember 30/07/08

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    Did you try syncing with the sync button on the side? Won't solve the core issue but at least you'll be able to use the joycons.
     
  4. Devon093
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    Devon093 Member

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    The issue with the joycon has been fixed which you can take a look at the previous posts It was fixed by repalcing a mosfet. Thanks for the advice though!
     
  5. The Real Jdbye

    The Real Jdbye Always Remember 30/07/08

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    Ah. I wasn't at home, so I didn't have time to read through the whole thread.
    Anyway, it seems like a lot of people don't know there even is a sync button on the side. Nintendo certainly don't tell you, they want you to dock the JoyCons to sync them, which is less convenient IMO when someone is just using their pair to play a bit of multiplayer Mario Kart or Mario Party or whatever on my Switch.
     
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  6. Devon093
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    Devon093 Member

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    It honestly did slip my mind that the sync button existed which will be helpful to remember in the future
     
  7. mattytrog

    mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.

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    I imagine it is the LCD timing controller or a DC/DC converter (though I think DC/DC conversion is handled elsewhere).

    The reason I say that is there is an inductor and a capacitor which is probably used for timing purposes.

    I don`t have my notes to hand. They in shed / workshop and the dog has done a great stinking s**t and I can`t find it in the dark. I`ll probably step in it on the way.

    F**king spaniels...
     
  8. Devon093
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    Devon093 Member

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    Oh boy watch your step, however could you take a look at the other post i tagged you in? I found a chipped component and am likely going to replace it tomorrow. If you have any advice on that it is appreciated :)
     
  9. mattytrog

    mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.

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    thats what im referring to sir :)
     
  10. The Real Jdbye

    The Real Jdbye Always Remember 30/07/08

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    I might be wrong but I think that's how chips look on the inside (silicon wafer? not sure)
    Might the plastic have been melted?
    Anyway, it might not actually be damaged. Hopefully it's just the exterior coating and the inside is fine (or maybe hopefully not, since that means you have to look elsewhere for the fault)
     
    Last edited by The Real Jdbye, Aug 23, 2019
  11. SolidSnakeUk89

    SolidSnakeUk89 Advanced Member

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    omg lol how did you get that to chip off!! ahaha

    it looks like a DC~DC converter, similar to the one next to M92 chip, I just took a pic with the microscope from one of the boards I have here in case it helps

    upload_2019-8-23_0-16-33.
     
  12. mattytrog

    mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.

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    I`ve found a couple of chipped ones on my (bought as scrap) boards.

    It seems that when people are using tweezers to get the ribbon out, they are levering on the IC to lift it.
     
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  13. Pintglass

    Pintglass GBAtemp Regular

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  14. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    100% agree! I would like to clarify one point if you have opportunity to preheat the board or "oven treat" on 200C do it first, that will prevent board from delimitation(bubbling) and wrapping... i had one switch on repair... that started to bubble right the second i heated it up.... so disappointing... it breaks the traces in to the internal layers.....
     
    Last edited by Agilato, Aug 23, 2019
  15. mattytrog

    mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.

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    Absolutely correct.

    Or just increase the heat gently. Do it in stages.

    Don't go hotter than 260 degrees over plastic
     
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  16. Agilato

    Agilato GBAtemp Regular

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    Not sure about my heat-gun readings, but my one doesn't melt the "switch" plastic elements before 340(C)
     
  17. Devon093
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    I replaced the alleged DC/DC converter and had no change unforunately. At least its not worse than it was. I cannot be 100% sure my swap was flawless though. Back to square one for now :(
     
  18. SolidSnakeUk89

    SolidSnakeUk89 Advanced Member

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    @Pintglass kindly mentioned could be a BD8316GWL ... (thanks for that mate! btw) could you post some pics of the bottom of the chip? how many balls/pins etc. maybe we can find a datasheet from which we can read voltages and you can use that to check if the right voltages are getting to the chip
     
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