Hardware Switch will not recognize that Joycon is attached, and cannot sync new joycons

[Devon093]

@SolidSnakeUk89

So I have a working LCD, checked the diodes and they seem good, as well as the inductor passthrough components and those seem alright. I suddenly noticed something i didnt see before, what appears to be a damaged IC near the LCD clip. It looked like a piece of glass was wedged underneath it, and it seems like its part of the chip itself. Pictures included/ (sorry they are bad pics)

Before I test too much further do you think this could be my issue?

@mattytrog

Thanks for tagging in. I actually fixed the joycon issue, and had someone else assemble it for me. They then informed me of the new issue of not having video in handheld mode I post pictures of what appears to be a damaged component which perhaps you have an idea regarding it. Thanks in advance!

 

[Retrojunkies]

ive had this same issue with 3 pairs of joycons, theyre dirty cheap, typical nintendo crap.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

This is a repair for a family friend who im quite confident did not perfom any homebrew on the console. Both joycons are connected, they both charge and also the switch shows the graphic on each side of the screen that i attached a joycon but the Left Joycon doesnt not say it is 'attached' to the switch. As a result i cannot sync new joycons to the system. I have already replaced the rail and there was no change with the issue. Help would be appreciated!

(If by chance homebrew could have something to with this, please let me know and ill find out for sure from them. Thanks in advance.)

Did you try syncing with the sync button on the side? Won't solve the core issue but at least you'll be able to use the joycons.

 

[Devon093]

Did you try syncing with the sync button on the side? Won't solve the core issue but at least you'll be able to use the joycons.

The issue with the joycon has been fixed which you can take a look at the previous posts It was fixed by repalcing a mosfet. Thanks for the advice though!

 

[The Real Jdbye]

The issue with the joycon has been fixed which you can take a look at the previous posts It was fixed by repalcing a mosfet. Thanks for the advice though!

Ah. I wasn't at home, so I didn't have time to read through the whole thread.
Anyway, it seems like a lot of people don't know there even is a sync button on the side. Nintendo certainly don't tell you, they want you to dock the JoyCons to sync them, which is less convenient IMO when someone is just using their pair to play a bit of multiplayer Mario Kart or Mario Party or whatever on my Switch.

 

[Devon093]

Ah. I wasn't at home, so I didn't have time to read through the whole thread.
Anyway, it seems like a lot of people don't know there even is a sync button on the side. Nintendo certainly don't tell you, they want you to dock the JoyCons to sync them, which is less convenient IMO when someone is just using their pair to play a bit of multiplayer Mario Kart or Mario Party or whatever on my Switch.

It honestly did slip my mind that the sync button existed which will be helpful to remember in the future

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks for tagging in. I actually fixed the joycon issue, and had someone else assemble it for me. They then informed me of the new issue of not having video in handheld mode I post pictures of what appears to be a damaged component which perhaps you have an idea regarding it. Thanks in advance!

I imagine it is the LCD timing controller or a DC/DC converter (though I think DC/DC conversion is handled elsewhere).

The reason I say that is there is an inductor and a capacitor which is probably used for timing purposes.

I don`t have my notes to hand. They in shed / workshop and the dog has done a great stinking s**t and I can`t find it in the dark. I`ll probably step in it on the way.

F**king spaniels...

 

[Devon093]

I imagine it is the LCD timing controller or a DC/DC converter (though I think DC/DC conversion is handled elsewhere).

The reason I say that is there is an inductor and a capacitor which is probably used for timing purposes.

I don`t have my notes to hand. They in shed / workshop and the dog has done a great stinking s**t and I can`t find it in the dark. I`ll probably step in it on the way.

F**king spaniels...

Oh boy watch your step, however could you take a look at the other post i tagged you in? I found a chipped component and am likely going to replace it tomorrow. If you have any advice on that it is appreciated

 

[mattytrog]

Oh boy watch your step, however could you take a look at the other post i tagged you in? I found a chipped component and am likely going to replace it tomorrow. If you have any advice on that it is appreciated

thats what im referring to sir

 

[The Real Jdbye]

@SolidSnakeUk89

So I have a working LCD, checked the diodes and they seem good, as well as the inductor passthrough components and those seem alright. I suddenly noticed something i didnt see before, what appears to be a damaged IC near the LCD clip. It looked like a piece of glass was wedged underneath it, and it seems like its part of the chip itself. Pictures included/ (sorry they are bad pics)

Before I test too much further do you think this could be my issue?

@mattytrog

Thanks for tagging in. I actually fixed the joycon issue, and had someone else assemble it for me. They then informed me of the new issue of not having video in handheld mode I post pictures of what appears to be a damaged component which perhaps you have an idea regarding it. Thanks in advance!

I might be wrong but I think that's how chips look on the inside (silicon wafer? not sure)
Might the plastic have been melted?
Anyway, it might not actually be damaged. Hopefully it's just the exterior coating and the inside is fine (or maybe hopefully not, since that means you have to look elsewhere for the fault)

 

[SolidSnakeUk89]

@SolidSnakeUk89

So I have a working LCD, checked the diodes and they seem good, as well as the inductor passthrough components and those seem alright. I suddenly noticed something i didnt see before, what appears to be a damaged IC near the LCD clip. It looked like a piece of glass was wedged underneath it, and it seems like its part of the chip itself. Pictures included/ (sorry they are bad pics)

Before I test too much further do you think this could be my issue?

@mattytrog

Thanks for tagging in. I actually fixed the joycon issue, and had someone else assemble it for me. They then informed me of the new issue of not having video in handheld mode I post pictures of what appears to be a damaged component which perhaps you have an idea regarding it. Thanks in advance!

omg lol how did you get that to chip off!! ahaha

it looks like a DC~DC converter, similar to the one next to M92 chip, I just took a pic with the microscope from one of the boards I have here in case it helps

 

[mattytrog]

omg lol how did you get that to chip off!! ahaha

it looks like a DC~DC converter, similar to the one next to M92 chip, I just took a pic with the microscope from one of the boards I have here in case it helps

View attachment 177101

I`ve found a couple of chipped ones on my (bought as scrap) boards.

It seems that when people are using tweezers to get the ribbon out, they are levering on the IC to lift it.

 

[Pintglass]

Could be this
https://www.rohm.com/datasheet/BD8316GWL/bd8316gwl-e

 

[Agilato]

Cheers for the tag @SolidSnakeUk89
Every pin needs to be sat correctly in the FPC connector.
Best way to replace, is to heat it up from the underside of the board. Around 370 degrees. Will lift off when ready.
Otherwise you will melt the BTB stacking connector for the emmc & fan / switch FPCs

100% agree! I would like to clarify one point if you have opportunity to preheat the board or "oven treat" on 200C do it first, that will prevent board from delimitation(bubbling) and wrapping... i had one switch on repair... that started to bubble right the second i heated it up.... so disappointing... it breaks the traces in to the internal layers.....

 

[mattytrog]

100% agree! I would like to clarify one point if you have opportunity to preheat the board or "oven treat" on 200C do it first, that will prevent board from delimitation(bubbling) and wrapping... i had one switch on repair... that started to bubble right the second i heated it up.... so disappointing... it breaks the traces in to the internal layers.....

Absolutely correct.

Or just increase the heat gently. Do it in stages.

Don't go hotter than 260 degrees over plastic

 

[Agilato]

Absolutely correct.

Or just increase the heat gently. Do it in stages.

Don't go hotter than 260 degrees over plastic

Not sure about my heat-gun readings, but my one doesn't melt the "switch" plastic elements before 340(C)

 

[Devon093]

I replaced the alleged DC/DC converter and had no change unforunately. At least its not worse than it was. I cannot be 100% sure my swap was flawless though. Back to square one for now

 

[SolidSnakeUk89]

I replaced the alleged DC/DC converter and had no change unforunately. At least its not worse than it was. I cannot be 100% sure my swap was flawless though. Back to square one for now

@Pintglass kindly mentioned could be a BD8316GWL ... (thanks for that mate! btw) could you post some pics of the bottom of the chip? how many balls/pins etc. maybe we can find a datasheet from which we can read voltages and you can use that to check if the right voltages are getting to the chip