i mean they sometimes skipping by 2 or 3, this happens only in the album and hb apps and there is no drift on my joysticks at all (2pairs of og with new sticks and joy 1 pair of some third party all the same.)nvm seems that reverting stock settings and new calibration helps a little.
Last edited by Lamcza,
Problem with All-in-One Nintendo Switch Updater by HamletduFromage
I’m trying to download cheats - cheat slips and it crashes in applet mode when the game is running (See screenshot). When I try to download cheats when the game isn’t running, it says this:
“This feature isn't available in applet mode. Please launch aio-switch-updater through title override to access it."
How do I title override the aio-switch-updater and will this fix the crashing error when downloading cheats from cheat slips? Thank you in advance for helping me.
I’m trying to download cheats - cheat slips and it crashes in applet mode when the game is running (See screenshot). When I try to download cheats when the game isn’t running, it says this:
“This feature isn't available in applet mode. Please launch aio-switch-updater through title override to access it."
How do I title override the aio-switch-updater and will this fix the crashing error when downloading cheats from cheat slips? Thank you in advance for helping me.
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o wow your oled is quacked as quack first class oled uniformity
Iam not sure what it is all about but did you try to launch it by holding R + A
I guess I experienced the very same seveal times....dont know why. Held power for couple of secs for hardware power off then booted normally to SD
This error typically signifies corruption.
What brand of card do you have?
how did you format it?
Please check your SDCard w/ h2testw and let us know the results.
You can play online and install modchip as long you keep your pirated stuffs on an emunand.
Hello! Is there any way to translate the switch UI language? Specifically to Arabic so it doesn't contain any Latin letters.
I am willing to put my time into it so any kind of info is appreciated. Thanks!
I am willing to put my time into it so any kind of info is appreciated. Thanks!
Nah my SD's alright, I did try a brand new SD and had the same error show up.
The only thing that fixed it for me was turning the Switch off completely and turning it back on.
So when I want to update my sysfw, do I run OFW on sysnand or CFW? I thought the Nintendo boot loader is what burns the switches in which case I wouldn't need cfw on sysnand correct? I remember you stating that you used cfw in regards to sysnand and updating, is there a reason why I would need to run CFW on sysnand?
Well if that's the case, firmware 15.X has been out for long enough that most homebrew apps and other tools should have been updated to support it and if they haven't been updated yet, they have most likely already been abandoned by their authors.
Sorry if I wasn't clear before. What I do specifically is I boot Stock mode via Hekate to go online and download the system update then I go offline and boot into CFW to install the update system while AutoRCM is enabled. Both times I avoid using the stock bootloader. And the reason you need to run CFW on sysMMC is because if you update the console without CFW, AutoRCM will be removed and when the console reboots after the system update, since AutoRCM will have been removed, the stock bootloader will be used so you must install the system update in CFW to prevent AutoRCM from being uninstalled.
Couldn't you just use a jig for the first RCM after installing the update and then install AutoRCM again? If so I wouldn't need to ever run CFW on sysnand correct? Does autorcm have a risk of permanently bricking my switch?
Last edited by Blakejansen,
Some people are still holding onto hope that a coldboot exploit will come out for fw ~4.0 or some such, and they don't want to burn fuses. The stock option in Hekate prevents fuses from being burned, on top of preventing AutoRCM from being overwritten. Maybe even prevents the game slot from being updated.
I think it's all a big hassle and just boot OFW to update, then dump the update to install in emummc.
AutoRCM is technically a brick. Done on purpose. As long as you keep a backup of boot0/boot1 on your computer, you can always fix it within nyx.
Yes you can and that is the third option for being able to update your firmware without burning fuses. The problem is that method relies solely on your jig. That is to say if your jig fails to boot RCM, your fuses will be burnt so unless you have a jig with 100% efficacy, its an incredibly big risk which is pointless when there are safer and far more effective methods available. You see threads like that all the time where the user is not able to boot back into RCM despite using the same jig again. And that's because jigs cause wear and tear on your right Joy-Con rail so there is no jig with 100% effectiveness meaning its a big risk if you want to update this way.
Also, the device is technically already bricked from AutoRCM. I don't see how it can get any worse than that.
This error is typically a result of an outdated Hekate.
You can update Hekate here:
https://github.com/CTCaer/hekate
More information about keeping your Switch up to date can be found here:
https://rentry.org/SwitchHackingIsEasy
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linuxares:
Thor from "Pirate Software" said its just better to pirate the game than buy from a keyshop if you care about the devs+2 -
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The Real Jdbye:
there's nothing to charge back because the keys don't cost them money to generate in the first place -
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linuxares:
@The Real Jdbye What don't you get? If someone use a stolen creditcard. Then sell said key on G2A. If I the dev sold the game key, I will get the charge back cost. That's how it works, it doesn't matter if I generate 300 keys if 300 of them are bought with stolen credit cards. I never said it was on Steam, but its the dev that gets hit. There is a ton of stories out there if you google it.+1
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linuxares:
I honestly wonder how the EU would say if I willed my account to you. And Valve be like "nope!"+1
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