Hacking Should I get a Slim or a Phat? (and just general questions about the PS3 homebrew stuff)

[driverdis]

PS3 PROs/CONs https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation_3_models
Fat: native PS2 hardware (4x USB port models), overheat easily/high-maintenance/loud fan
Slim: emulate PS2, do not overheat easily/low-maintenance/quiet fan

PS2 PROs/CONs
Fat: native PS2 on HDD, do not overheat easily/low-maintenance/quiet fan
Slim: native PS2 on USB/network, do not overheat easily/low-maintenance/quiet fan

PS2 HD remasters on PS3
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highdefinition_remasters_for_PlayStation_consoles#PlayStation_3

Reballing does no work. Reflow would be more effective, but still futile.

Reballing works for the consoles since the early mix lead free solder cracks under thermal expansion which causes the pads to lose contact.

 

[the_randomizer]

Reballing works for the consoles since the early mix lead free solder cracks under thermal expansion which causes the pads to lose contact.

Sounds like way more trouble than it's worth.

 

[brollikk]

Sounds like way more trouble than it's worth.

unless you know someone who specifically has experience with this, it is a huge pain in the ass. According to the videos above, it also seems questionable as to how effective this is. I'd say just get a slim and be done with it lol.

 

[the_randomizer]

unless you know someone who specifically has experience with this, it is a huge pain in the ass. According to the videos above, it also seems questionable as to how effective this is. I'd say just get a slim and be done with it lol.

Yeah, in essence, it's not worth it at all.

 

[driverdis]

Sounds like way more trouble than it's worth.

It is, which is why I paid for one that someone already reballed with a proper leaded solder mix.

The console does not run super hot with a good TIM so under normal operations it will not get hot enough to damage the board again.

The one I got was a full refurbishment so all sorts of stuff was done to restore it to better than factory condition.

The video against reballing does not apply to the PS3 since the chips and board are good quality but was hindered by the bad solder mix caused from the rapid jump from lead to lead free without companies getting the formula right. The lead free mix now is a lot better and devices that use it show since the failure rate is not like the early days of lead free.

I guess the only thing that makes it troublesome is the hit to the pocketbook.

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unless you know someone who specifically has experience with this, it is a huge pain in the ass. According to the videos above, it also seems questionable as to how effective this is. I'd say just get a slim and be done with it lol.

The video starts fine with stuff about poor quality chips which reballing will not fix since it is the chip, not the physical joints that are bad. Then the guy throws in conspiracy theories about internal hardware timers that cause the board to commit suicide after warranty runs out.

This is not true and failure rates are based around quality of components which can be lowered to lower the life expectancy of devices but come on a suicide timer, seriously?

The PS3 in this case was made with the highest quality components within reason since it is a launch console and thus are produced before any cost and power savings measures are implemented. There are a few PS3s out there where the actual GPU or CPU chip was defective and thus recall would do nothing but that is to be expected but most failed from the solder joints themselves being brittle from an early mix of leadfree solder that was rushed into service with little testing done. This is why reballing works for game consoles like the PS3, as the problem being fixed (the solder joints) is the problem in the first place.

 

[Teletron1]

Correct. Taxes, shipping cost and general importing costs would fuck me over when most of my money is from the trade ins anyway meaning I kinda NEED to use the store I was planning to purchase from. Also we Irish folk have different plugs than you US folks meaning I'd need to get a plug converter as well.

didn't the Phat and I think most of the PS3 support 110/220 as this became more of the shift to being more like a computer so you just swap the plug

 

[giogio5]

Well, seems like I'll be getting a Slim. Like I want PS2 games but most of them got HD remasters on the PS3 so I believe I'm good. But, what about the scene? Is it actually alive or just kinda stagnant? And maybe link me a guide or something so I can have a read of what I need to do. Thanks guys.

 

[kumikochan]

Well, seems like I'll be getting a Slim. Like I want PS2 games but most of them got HD remasters on the PS3 so I believe I'm good. But, what about the scene? Is it actually alive or just kinda stagnant? And maybe link me a guide or something so I can have a read of what I need to do. Thanks guys.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/guide-ps3-4-82-cfw-installation-for-dummies.491117/

 

[giogio5]

https://gbatemp.net/threads/guide-ps3-4-82-cfw-installation-for-dummies.491117/

Does the guide apply if it's 4.83 or whatever the latest FW is or just 4.82?

 

[the_randomizer]

It is, which is why I paid for one that someone already reballed with a proper leaded solder mix.

The console does not run super hot with a good TIM so under normal operations it will not get hot enough to damage the board again.

The one I got was a full refurbishment so all sorts of stuff was done to restore it to better than factory condition.

The video against reballing does not apply to the PS3 since the chips and board are good quality but was hindered by the bad solder mix caused from the rapid jump from lead to lead free without companies getting the formula right. The lead free mix now is a lot better and devices that use it show since the failure rate is not like the early days of lead free.

I guess the only thing that makes it troublesome is the hit to the pocketbook.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



The video starts fine with stuff about poor quality chips which reballing will not fix since it is the chip, not the physical joints that are bad. Then the guy throws in conspiracy theories about internal hardware timers that cause the board to commit suicide after warranty runs out.

This is not true and failure rates are based around quality of components which can be lowered to lower the life expectancy of devices but come on a suicide timer, seriously?

The PS3 in this case was made with the highest quality components within reason since it is a launch console and thus are produced before any cost and power savings measures are implemented. There are a few PS3s out there where the actual GPU or CPU chip was defective and thus recall would do nothing but that is to be expected but most failed from the solder joints themselves being brittle from an early mix of leadfree solder that was rushed into service with little testing done. This is why reballing works for game consoles like the PS3, as the problem being fixed (the solder joints) is the problem in the first place.

I guess that's fair, still, wished PS3s were easier to hack, but that's just me.

 

[Fugelmir]

I have had nothing but trouble with PHAT models. Always either shitty solder or having to replace thermal paste. Super slim is even worse, but slim has the best build quality overall.

 

[the_randomizer]

I have had nothing but trouble with PHAT models. Always either shitty solder or having to replace thermal paste. Super slim is even worse, but slim has the best build quality overall.

Ouch, and I thought the OG Xbox 360's had shitty thermal paste and bad heatsinks. Oh wait, yes it did.

 

[driverdis]

Does the guide apply if it's 4.83 or whatever the latest FW is or just 4.82?

Nope 4.83+ has no public hack, which is why my reballed console is my main OFW one now and replaced my working SuperSlim as my main.

I don’t want to open it up for the e3 flasher since I would need to redo the thermal paste and any pad installation after downgrading and I risk breaking it since I do not have enough experience flashing chips.

 

[Fugelmir]

Even the phat model doesn't play valkyrie profile 2 properly.

There's no way to accurately run it outside of a ps2.

It's close to perfect but not quite there.

 

[the_randomizer]

Even the phat model doesn't play valkyrie profile 2 properly.

There's no way to accurately run it outside of a ps2.

It's close to perfect but not quite there.

PS2 is still a nightmare to emulate.

 

[zfreeman]

Even some PS2 Slims had trouble playing PS2 games.
https://www.geek.com/games/latest-ps2-has-compatibility-issues-560422/
https://www.ign.com/articles/2005/10/20/new-pstwo-revision-incompatible-with-older-titles

 

[giogio5]

Nope 4.83+ has no public hack.

So I might be fucked if they update the system? I assume they reinitallize the consoles to make them completely fresh, so I might not be if I can figure out how to get to 4.82 from there. Either that or I'm supremely fucked. And by the way, how frequent is Sony in banning?

 

[sj33]

I have both a FAT and Slim PS3 so maybe I can offer some perspective.

Unless you need 100% PS2 compatibility, I would go with a Slim without hesitation. I had the FAT with CFW first, yet when the exploit for Slim machines was released, I almost ran to the store the buy a Slim.

The problem with the FAT machines is that they are big, loud and run hot. Even if you replace the thermal paste (which I have done), you will be relying on fan adjustment tools to keep the thing running at a sensible temperature, and this in turn affects how loud the console runs.

Conversely, the Slim is much quieter and runs relatively cool. It is generally a much better engineered piece of hardware. The drawback is the lack of PS2 hardware compatibility, but the software emulation is much better than I expected as long as it is viewed as a nice bonus.

If you do get a slim, check the model number. Make sure it is no higher than CECH-2500 (and be careful even then - some later 2500's are not exploitable), avoid CECH-3000 completely. And make sure the installed firmware is no higher than 4.82

 

[giogio5]

Make sure the installed firmware is no higher than 4.82

So, say for example the console was reset by the store, how would I about getting it to 4.82? Because I believe the store would probably just reset it and leave it at that.

 

[sj33]

If all they did is reset it, it would still be on whatever firmware the console had. If they updated, you'll be relying on a hardware mod to downgrade.

Consoles on 4.82 or lower should still be widespread, 4.83 only came out in October.