Hardware Random boot Nintendo switch

manu2219

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Hello everyone,

firstly, sorry for my english(Google translation)

I bought a Nintendo switch that won't boot.the battery normally charges(4.20V). after checking for possible shorts, I did not find anything, I have 3.3V on pins 5 and 6 of the M92t36 with the charger connected, I changed the USB-c because it was broken. now, i have the nintendo logo and nothing else after. to make reappear the logo nintendo I must make a hard reset vol + power 12 seconds. if I insist with this manipulation for hours with deplug and replug the Battery, I can start the nintendo swich, i can play with for several hours, I can charging the battery too, but if i shtdown it , it does not restart any more. and with my usb meter, it's take 0.50A.

do you think that can come from ic M92t36?

Thx,
 

kwnage

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Yeah could be a faulty M92T36 or if it has been replaced before, it might not be soldered correctly and getting intermittent contact. Also if it has been replaced, check for knocked or missing components in that area.

Or post a picture of the board...
 
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mattytrog

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Not M92T36. Or at least unlikely.

If it boots, M92T36 is OK. Very rare the console will start if M92T36 power delivery controller fails. And you getting 3v on pin 5, so internal voltage is good.
If it charges, fuel gauge is OK.

Incorrect fitment of USB port is my diagnosis.
Or internal pins in new port are tarnished / fluxed...
Will be confusing the Pi3USB, as well as BQ24193 maybe.

Spray some IPA in the port and fit / refit something USB-C(a micro-usb - usb-c adapter is perfect, and unimportant) to clean the contacts. Keep rinsing the port out.

Rinse and repeat before condemning the port.
 
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kwnage

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Had one console with a M92T36 that was about to die. Sometimes it booted, sometimes it went straight to an error screen, sometimes it would just hang...reflowing wouldn't help, but replacing it did. But yeah, you're right, it's unlikely.
 
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manu2219

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I changed the IC M92t36 today, do not boot, just the Nintendo logo and nothing else, I removed the USB-C, same issue, I reflow all the IC MAXs on both sides and miracle switch starts instantly, several tests to remove the battery and reconnect and it works every time.

Thank you all for your help.
 

manu2219

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Hello again,

After a few days and several hours of play, tonight the switch remained frozen, and no way to restart it, the original issue appeared, nintendo logo and nothing, the battery is charged and I already applied the thermal paste on cpu gpu, no caps shorted, i stell have 3.3V on pins 5 and 6 of the M92T36.

Before doing the same operation (reflow IC MAXs). Do you have a suggestion about this malfunction?


Thx,
 

manu2219

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Which ICs exactly did you reflow? Did you reflow them with flux or just hot air?


I reflow all IC MAXs and one BGA ic( i dont know what is it) but without flux. and you are right :)
i will tray reflow with flux tumorow but one by one.

i will exclude the fuel gauge IC quoted by Mattytrog, because battery charging.

Thx Kwnage,
 

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manu2219

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Hello again,

can anyone tell how many ohms between ground and these caps in bleu? i have around 60 ohms.
if I understand correctly, we must have 1.8V in output, but I have 0V after push power button(with everything disconnected).
on the other MAX77621 near speeker connector , I have 1.8V.

what is the role of this MAX?

Thx,
 

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Pintglass

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Hello again,

can anyone tell how many ohms between ground and these caps in bleu? i have around 60 ohms.
if I understand correctly, we must have 1.8V in output, but I have 0V after push power button(with everything disconnected).
on the other MAX77621 near speeker connector , I have 1.8V.

what is the role of this MAX?

Thx,

The 1.8V is not an output its an input for the serial interface

The MAX77621's are buck converters for the cpu/gpu
 
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manu2219

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The 1.8V is not an output its an input for the serial interface

The MAX77621's are buck converters for the cpu/gpu

what are the two caps doing withe battery voltage(3.9V)?
Buck converter must do drop voltage, i m wrong?


Thx,
 

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Bohne

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I hope it's ok to use this thread for my question. The parts around the chip beneath the eMMC are shorted(80% of them).
I already removed the chip but the shorts are still there.

What could cause the shorts? What can I check?
 

iTechCareRepair

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I hope it's ok to use this thread for my question. The parts around the chip beneath the eMMC are shorted(80% of them).
I already removed the chip but the shorts are still there.

What could cause the shorts? What can I check?
Try inject 1v into the short rail see if you have a cap getting hpt somewhere
 
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Bohne

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Ok. Next question. What is the best and easiest way to inject 1v?

I don't have any tool. Can I use batteries?
 

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