PS5 WIFI Chip solder ball size

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Takezo-San

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Need help identifying the right solder ball size for the wifi chip for the PS5.
I've some people say 0.5mm and others say 2*0.6mm.
I'm super confused as to what is actually the correct size to use.
Please help, thank you guys.

(On a small chip like this I like to use solder balls rather than paste, I find it yields better results for me.)
 
For the WiFi module itself 0.5 mm is too small. The pad diameter is aprox 0.9 mm so 2*0.6 mm should be more in the right direction.
 
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For the WiFi module itself 0.5 mm is too small. The pad diameter is aprox 0.9 mm so 2*0.6 mm should be more in the right direction.
Ahh thanks.
I had a go with some 0.5mm*2 (reball went flawless) and the console got worse. Used to have Beep noise+ 2 BLOD and shut off but now it beeps and shuts off. I used a hot air station so I was thinking maybe its my technique and tool limitations? I've done reballs before on standard ic chips but these one look really thick and the PS5 boards are nice and thick too.

Would you reckon I should go for a PCB hot plate heater or something? Try with 0.6mm*2? There was a bit of warping if I inspect under the microscope and is there a difference in the wifi chip for the revision of PS5 boards?

Thanks again for the help :)
 
It is a bit a pain, if you want to replace the WiFi module, due to the nature of the sandwish module itself and the needed heat in the board. Preheating would help, but it is possible without a preheater. At the edm-010/020 boards I place the boards so I can apply heat from button and top.

There are 'two' different versions of WiFi moduls. One with two power lines J20h100/AW-XM501 and one with only one power line J20h104/AW-XM546. If you check the both places for the Wifi pmics, you can see both or only one equipped.
 
It is a bit a pain, if you want to replace the WiFi module, due to the nature of the sandwish module itself and the needed heat in the board. Preheating would help, but it is possible without a preheater. At the edm-010/020 boards I place the boards so I can apply heat from button and top.

There are 'two' different versions of WiFi moduls. One with two power lines J20h100/AW-XM501 and one with only one power line J20h104/AW-XM546. If you check the both places for the Wifi pmics, you can see both or only one equipped.
Hey thanks for the reply. I managed to get hold of a J20h104 wifi chip and got it on the board successfully with my hot air station (took the small nozzle off and used no nozzle so there's more heat area that hits the chip, not a concentrated hit of heat. And I only heated the chip from the top, not the underside of the motherboard.).

Got the capacitor in place to (the one that was knocked) and hooked my bench power supply. (Note my uart tool gave a 808100001 error). Turned it on and 12ma for a second then it jumps too 306ma for a few secs and then back down to 12ma but here it switches 12ma to 0a back to 12ma to 0ma in a pulsing manner for 10seconds or so and then I get a flat 0a.

Any idea what this could be? I can't see any shorts in that area and voltages are good. Hooking up to the PS5 PSU gives me the 1sec BLOD and then turns off.

Is it, could it be the dc-dc bug? Has anyone seen this before.
I know I'm close with this a I just need it to stay on at that last stage oppose to pulsing off/on.

EDIT - Had a donor PS5 and substituted the dc-dc chip and still the same issue.
 
Last edited by Takezo-San,

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