Picofly AIO Thread

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How do I compile the bus and generate the firmware in vicode?
I don't know how-tos on vscode.

I am using clion + terminal to code and compile it.
Read the github workflow, the step is in there. Its simple not complicated.
You need to figure it out how to apply it on your favorite IDE.
 
Hey guys, i've installed pico on my oled , it works for a week and it freeze afterwards , can't turn on. I checked the diode , it shows the cmd (Point A) has prob , i replaced the 4.7k ohm resis with a new one, it works however after one hour of usage the problem persisted.

So i replace the resistor once again , still no luck , freeze and cannot boot.

The value always at 0.6xx after replacement, but once it's booted it will drop back to 0.3xx and unable to boot for the 2nd time.

Tried remove all the wires , can boot to ofw without any prob. Any idea?
 

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Call me crazy but I sidestepped the whole stencil idea by buying a tiny bottle of pre-formed 0.3mm solder balls.

I placed each one onto the MMC pads using a sewing needle. I swiped the needle across a tiny smear of flux on my silicone work surface, invisible to the naked eye but just enough that the solder ball would adhere to the tip of the needle.

I did about 10-15 solder balls at a time, never placing any directly next to each other.
Then, using a QUICK 861DW hot air station I set the heat to 500 and airflow to 10-20 and held it about six inches away from the MMC chip.
I then gradually moved the hot air closer as the chip warmed up, moving away immediately as soon as I saw the solder balls melt onto the pads.

Repeated this until all were done.

I think the benefit of doing it this way is that you avoid all the work to set up a stencil correctly and you get a precise measure of leaded solder on every pad.

Edit: I should add that this is extraordinarily time consuming but I've genuinely literally never had a failure reballing this way.
I've even done the glass WiFi chips this way.
 
Last edited by RedFawkes,
Call me crazy but I sidestepped the whole stencil idea by buying a tiny bottle of pre-formed 0.3mm solder balls.

I placed each one onto the MMC pads using a sewing needle. I swiped the needle across a tiny smear of flux on my silicone work surface, invisible to the naked eye but just enough that the solder ball would adhere to the tip of the needle.

I did about 10-15 solder balls at a time, never placing any directly next to each other.
Then, using a QUICK 861DW hot air station I set the heat to 500 and airflow to 10-20 and held it about six inches away from the MMC chip.
I then gradually moved the hot air closer as the chip warmed up, moving away immediately as soon as I saw the solder balls melt onto the pads.

Repeated this until all were done.

I think the benefit of doing it this way is that you avoid all the work to set up a stencil correctly and you get a precise measure of leaded solder on every pad.

Edit: I should add that this is extraordinarily time consuming but I've genuinely literally never had a failure reballing this way.
I've even done the glass WiFi chips this way.

What is the safe temperature that desolder mmc chip and soldering it again on motherbord???
 
What is the safe temperature that desolder mmc chip and soldering it again on motherbord???
Well.. according to online resources leaded solder melts at around 180 degrees Celsius and unleaded is around 220..

However, if you're using hot air then you should note that whatever temp you set your hot air to isn't necessarily the temperature that is felt on the chip.

Distance and time are the variables to consider here.

In my example above I would agree that 500 is very high but my airflow is incredibly low.
I like to feel the heat by waving my palm under the airflow.
If you did the same you'd get a very good idea about what you're about to do to the chip.

Again.. 500c is high but if it's gradually introduced it will slowly bring the chip up to temp without needing to switch temperatures such as following the timed heating that Sthetix suggests. I'm not saying he's not correct in his process but I find feeling the process produces a very reliable result for me.
 
Hello. I need help. Hardware used:Nintendo switch console V1 patched+ Picofly +CPU flex V1 (1 mosfet) +0.1 enameled copper wire.
I did all the wiring, and when i try to start it it boots straight into OFW .
The error code i get on the picofly led is : Blue led, then yellow all the way. =*** long pause =*** until im into OFW.
On error code it says its eMMc innit failure but i dont know what its causing it or how to fix it.
All the soldering was done with an optic microscope.
 

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Hello. I need help. Hardware used:Nintendo switch console V1 patched+ Picofly +CPU flex V1 (1 mosfet) +0.1 enameled copper wire.
I did all the wiring, and when i try to start it it boots straight into OFW .
The error code i get on the picofly led is : Blue led, then yellow all the way. =*** long pause =*** until im into OFW.
On error code it says its eMMc innit failure but i dont know what its causing it or how to fix it.
All the soldering was done with an optic microscope.
Nothing seems incorrect according to your pictures.
However I would try moving the wires near the connection points ever so slightly to see if they are all solid.
I suspect you may find one (or two perhaps) that just 'let go' with very little persuasion.

These would be your poor connections. Resolder and test again.

Edit: If not the above then touch up the CPU flex. You seem to be on the right path.
Switches aren't nearly as fragile as you might think.. go back and carefully ensure your connections are good.
It seems like you're nearly there 👍🏼
 
Last edited by RedFawkes,
Hello. I need help. Hardware used:Nintendo switch console V1 patched+ Picofly +CPU flex V1 (1 mosfet) +0.1 enameled copper wire.
I did all the wiring, and when i try to start it it boots straight into OFW .
The error code i get on the picofly led is : Blue led, then yellow all the way. =*** long pause =*** until im into OFW.
On error code it says its eMMc innit failure but i dont know what its causing it or how to fix it.
All the soldering was done with an optic microscope.

1689789971496.png

chance of short CMD to ground .

1689790026953.png


"471" Stands for 470 ohm, not the 47 ohm(470) you need.
 
wait what. so i have the wrong resistors? ;-;
Seems so..

If you're keen to get it finished then order replacements from eBay rather than AliExpress. Then you won't need to wait ten days for delivery..

It'll be more expensive but only by a few quid (or dollars etc)
Post automatically merged:

Seems so..

Hello. I need help. Hardware used:Nintendo switch console V1 patched+ Picofly +CPU flex V1 (1 mosfet) +0.1 enameled copper wire.
I did all the wiring, and when i try to start it it boots straight into OFW .
The error code i get on the picofly led is : Blue led, then yellow all the way. =*** long pause =*** until im into OFW.
On error code it says its eMMc innit failure but i dont know what its causing it or how to fix it.
All the soldering was done with an optic microscope.
BTW Crung hats off to your explanation 👍🏼
This is exactly how problems should be presented 🙂

Secondly, I'm clearly new to this forum so I hope I'm not overstepping my mark 🤔
Please let me know if I'm ever wrong 👍🏼

I have slightly over twenty years of console modding experience. Mostly built on Messiah II's and XEcuter 2.3 & 3.0's.
I'm just soooo happy to break out the soldering iron again 😅😅😅😅
 
Last edited by RedFawkes,
Im going to order new resistors. Im going with this .
Post automatically merged:

Seems so..

If you're keen to get it finished then order replacements from eBay rather than AliExpress. Then you won't need to wait ten days for delivery..

It'll be more expensive but only by a few quid (or dollars etc)
Post automatically merged:




BTW Crung hats off to your explanation 👍🏼
This is exactly how problems should be presented 🙂

Secondly, I'm clearly new to this forum so I hope I'm not overstepping my mark 🤔
Please let me know if I'm ever wrong 👍🏼

I have slightly over twenty years of console modding experience. Mostly built on Messiah II's and XEcuter 2.3 & 3.0's.
I'm just soooo happy to break out the soldering iron again 😅😅😅😅
ty ty. Im also really exccited about succesfully modding this switch. Its like my 5th time ever soldering but (i may be wrong) i think im decent at it and i have an eye for details and a steady hand.
Cant wait to finish the job and isolate all the wires and connections. It gives me anxiety powering the console with everything how it is but at the same time i dont feel like putting solder mask on it and having to remove it later.
 

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Last edited by Crung,
Im going to order new resistors. Im going with this .
Post automatically merged:


ty ty. Im also really exccited about succesfully modding this switch. Its like my 5th time ever soldering but (i may be wrong) i think im decent at it and i have an eye for details and a steady hand.
Cant wait to finish the job and isolate all the wires and connections. It gives me anxiety powering the console with everything how it is but at the same time i dont feel like putting solder mask on it and having to remove it later.
Just to satisfy my curiosity, and for the benefit of others, can you list your instruments? Microscope, soldering Iron etc..
Post automatically merged:

Just to satisfy my curiosity, and for the benefit of others, can you list your instruments? Microscope, soldering Iron etc..


I use:

https://amscope.co.uk/products/amsc...o-microscope-single-arm-boom-stand-image-port

https://hakko.co.uk/product/fx-951-compact-soldering-station/

https://kaisertech.co.uk/quick861dw-1000w-hot-air-rework-station
Im going to order new resistors. Im going with this .
Post automatically merged:


ty ty. Im also really exccited about succesfully modding this switch. Its like my 5th time ever soldering but (i may be wrong) i think im decent at it and i have an eye for details and a steady hand.
Cant wait to finish the job and isolate all the wires and connections. It gives me anxiety powering the console with everything how it is but at the same time i dont feel like putting solder mask on it and having to remove it later.
 
Last edited by RedFawkes,
Well, guys, I fixed it by removing the second resistor on the DAT0 line, but not on CMD line. Now it glitches, succesfully enters HEKATE, but... I have encountered another problem: it no longer passes from Nintendo logo on OFW, nor Atmosphere logo on emunand... is the NAND corrupt? Is there something I could do to fix it? Maybe it is a problem with the chip interrupting execution somehow? Or maybe I must remove the resistor from CMD line too? It swtches off after the logo...

Thanks in advance!
Dying and finally dead motherboard. So I am in search of a donor unit now. Thanks for all the help provided though :)
 

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