Picofly AIO Thread

[aparitxi]

You have solder Flux? just use it to clean that bridge, before you do anything else. As long as no ripped component then you should be able to undo using flux.

Yeah i used flux and removed the bridge but in the process i damaged the solder cap so i can not solder the point showed in the guide anymore, i tested with a multimeter the point below and is 3.3v too, so i tried to solder there but the wire seems to bridge both components. My question is if removing the wire and soldering in other 3.3v point as for example the emmc point is a better choice than keep it as now

Post automatically merged: May 11, 2023

*I tested the component above not the below one

 

[lightninjay]

did you use hot air for installing the capacitors? will it not damage the apu?

Where did I say I used hot air? I soldered them back in by eye with tweezers and a ts100 using a J-tip.

 

[taspankya]

Yeah i used flux and removed the bridge but in the process i damaged the solder cap so i can not solder the point showed in the guide anymore, i tested with a multimeter the point below and is 3.3v too, so i tried to solder there but the wire seems to bridge both components. My question is if removing the wire and soldering in other 3.3v point as for example the emmc point is a better choice than keep it as now

Post automatically merged: May 11, 2023

*I tested the component above not the below one

i'm in the same situation.


i'm wondering if there is any alternate point on the v2 main board thats not a cap and not on the emmc board?

 

[LogicalMadness]

i'm in the same situation.


i'm wondering if there is any alternate point on the v2 main board thats not a cap and not on the emmc board?

I know of a spot but I really feel if you don't have the tools\technique to solder to the 'known working spot', you shouldn't even attempting this mod.

I'll give some clues though:

It's on the other side of the board and it's still a cap that you're soldering to, it's just much bigger and 'in the open'.

 

[taspankya]

I know of a spot but I really feel if you don't have the tools\technique to solder to the 'known working spot', you shouldn't even attempting this mod.

I'll give some clues though:

It's on the other side of the board and it's still a cap that you're soldering to, it's just much bigger and 'in the open'.

you know nothing of my tools or technique. it also seems that you don't know the answer to my question and would rather play games. i'll wait for a serious reply, i'm not in a rush.

 

[LogicalMadness]

you know nothing of my tools or technique. it also seems that you don't know the answer to my question and would rather play games. i'll wait for a serious reply, i'm not in a rush.

Lol, you gave us picture evidence of your technique and I have yet to see anyone else post about it.

GLHF!

 

[TheCatsMeow]

Personally I don't "trust" the GND from the shield, since when cutting the shield for the CLK point soldering, some of the anchors popped out right away, and thus I question about how good the connection could be there.

For the SoC "GND square", I scrape it slightly with tweezers as you do, add flux, T12-BC1 tip and bump the temp up to 370°C on the T12 station. I use Sn63/Pb37 solder and never had issues for soldering that point.

Otherwise, one can use the other side of the capacitor on the SoC, since there're a lot of GND points around.

The shield looked like it was soldered to the board very well, at least on my switch. Assuming you're talking about the piece that's soldered to the board, not the actual shield that snaps into place and sits on top of the CPU/Memory.

Yup that worked for me as well. I have my Hakko station on max, which is like 370c or something. I'm used to doing all of my soldering at that temp, never needs adjusting haha.

Yeah I would say another ground point might be a bit easier, I'd also recommend just the other side of one of the capacitors there

Post automatically merged: May 11, 2023

Between 0.25 or 0.35 which one should i pick, seems kinda hard to find 0.30 solder ball around here to purchase.

I recommend solder paste over balls, I've used balls a handful of times and never had good results with them. Paste was and is so much easier for me to use when I'm reballing, never had any major issues with it. If I have, it's because my stencil sucked and I needed to find a new one from a different seller. Everyone has their own opinion and preference, though

 

[taspankya]

Lol, you gave us picture evidence of your technique and I have yet to see anyone else post about it.

GLHF!

what a good private investigator you are. i updated the 'evidence' for you.

 

[LogicalMadness]

what a good private investigator you are. i updated the 'evidence' for you.

Sorry, I got it twisted (see? It's okay to be wrong, no biggie). You're correct, I know nothing about your work (don't care to look either), just tired of the same question over and over again when searching is a thing.

My argument remains, MOST people should not be attempting this mod. Not being able to solder to the known working places and looking for advanced techniques to solder elsewhere is ludacris to me.

If someone comes forward with the correct question, I'll reveal my alternate point. One more clue though, if you're used to repairing Switch USB ports, the alternative point becomes obvious.

Also, life is a game, I'm just trying to get people to think for themselves.

 

[jkyoho]

i'm in the same situation.


i'm wondering if there is any alternate point on the v2 main board thats not a cap and not on the emmc board?

First pin on the emmc socket(mainboard side top 1st roll) is really a ideal spot for the 3.3v line unless your skill leads you mess up that BIG pin......
There are also plenty 3.3v points could use both front and back side of the board, but I just don't want to see more people ripping off the pads or point due to the lack of skill(not to mention those using 5mm HUGE blade type tip working with 0.xmm wires)

 

[calishooter]

First pin on the emmc socket(mainboard side top 1st roll) is really a ideal spot for the 3.3v line unless your skill leads you mess up that BIG pin......
There are also plenty 3.3v points could use both front and back side of the board, but I just don't want to see more people ripping off the pads or point due to the lack of skill(not to mention those using 5mm HUGE blade type tip working with 0.xmm wires)

Hope this helps.

 

[naldo29]

is it possible to use a v1 apu connector on a v2?

 

[impeeza]

is it possible to use a v1 apu connector on a v2?

yes, with adapting cables.

 

[BlackPhoenix002]

Are there any compatibility issues with micro sd cards? I asked the HATS github and he basically told me to come here because he wont use pico until its stable but this is the issues i have.

"When trying to launch the CFW (SYSMMC) gives error of unknown pkg1 version ect failed to launch HOS. It does launch into CFW(EMUMMC) although I'm unable to launch any games or download any games. Basically just can get into it but nothing past that. When trying to reboot to OFW screen goes black and does nothing. I need to take out the SD card and hold power for it to get back into Hekate. I'm using a 256gb gigastone if that matters. Went the RP2040 picofly route with I would assume is a V2 switch.side note it gives a message that that eMMC is in slower mode and failed 2 read/writes if that helps."

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[BlackPhoenix002]

There are no microsd cards issue yet, as long as i read this thread.
I use cheapest 128 vgen, and still works.

Pico is already stable, i don't know what that guys are saying. Already use it daily to play games.

I myself wont bother with HATS at all.
Follow guide from reentry.org for creating emunand, its clear.
Basically just manually download the H, the A, and the S without T (I prefer offline while using cfw).

If you couldn't run the game then maybe the S is not correctly installed, because S is responsible for it.

I prefer using emummc than sysmmc (i need to be careful to not get banned). Yeah people said its safe if you already make 'preparation', who knows what those ninja do, better be safe, offline is my ninja way.

Basically when i do load into EMUMMC i cant do anything, i get an error everytime i try to launch something, That and i cant even access my switch normally like the stock system, It simply doesnt boot to it. Also the S part is like the only part they dont have linked.

 

[abal1000x]

.

 

[impeeza]

https://gbatemp.net/threads/sigpatches-for-atmosphere-hekate-fss0-fusee-package3.571543/

 

[BlackPhoenix002]

How would I go about using this?

 

[impeeza]

How would I go about using this?

reading the OP of the thread https://gbatemp.net/threads/sigpatches-for-atmosphere-hekate-fss0-fusee-package3.571543/