SOC - System on Chip which in this case is the APU of Switch.Not yet
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What is SOC?
(Called SOC because it integrates CPU, GPU and sometimes RAM and other circuits in a single package)
SOC - System on Chip which in this case is the APU of Switch.Not yet
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What is SOC?
It can give you a BSOD and sadly it's often the SoC that is dead if it happens.
https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/Nintendo_Switch_Blue_Screen_of_Death
ouch... it's really a dice roll then? Do you think it's the inner traces that taken damage or solder joints? Since in theory a reball would work (even if it's a pissing hell to fix)I've fixed a few by bending the Switch back into 'shape' and reflowing the APU, rough estimate 50\50 chance of working again.
Yeah, I think it mostly happen to dropped Switches. So the solder joints crack
Not sure. Now that I'm more confident in my reballing technique, I can't wait to try a reball on a BSOD. Pretty sure I've read that it could be RAM related as well.ouch... it's really a dice roll then? Do you think it's the inner traces that taken damage or solder joints? Since in theory a reball would work (even if it's a pissing hell to fix)
Can probably be a lot. I hope you find a fix for it.From my experience, it's almost always that they're bent.
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Not sure. Now that I'm more confident in my reballing technique, I can't wait to try a reball on a BSOD. Pretty sure I've read that it could be RAM related as well.
YeahFrom my experience, it's almost always that they're bent.
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Not sure. Now that I'm more confident in my reballing technique, I can't wait to try a reball on a BSOD. Pretty sure I've read that it could be RAM related as well.
Yeah
.. all i read and videos i saw is related to cpu or ram...
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ANyone knows if this adapter works on a switch lite emmc? Really interested in do it but dont know if works...it will give me a lot of tjme if works
In my experience it doesnt need to be bridged at the time you flash, you can bridged it after flashed. I usually bridged them manually using rj45 just to see n test the led signature to know the flash is successfull. Then i remove manual cable and bridged it with solder tin at the time of instalation.Leave them bridged
If the whole point of your post was to say that you (bridged) the pins temporarily during flashing, and then ultimately soldered and bridged the two points at installation, then we are saying the same thing, no?In my experience it doesnt need to be bridged at the time you flash, you can bridged it after flashed. I usually bridged them manually using rj45 just to see n test the led signature to know the flash is successfull. Then i remove manual cable and bridged it with solder tin at the time of instalation.
I believe this adapter is only for the OLED. No need for the Lite or V2Yeah
.. all i read and videos i saw is related to cpu or ram...
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ANyone knows if this adapter works on a switch lite emmc? Really interested in do it but dont know if works...it will give me a lot of tjme if works
I left the console on a technic...if he cannot save it i will take the picture...but the cpu is intact...the console is brand new...Can you clean the APU and send us a picture of it and the surrounding area?
I need to get another clk and dat0 points on my switch lite since i fucked the pads near the emmc and its not connecting to the cpu anymore...this adapter (if works on switch lite emmc) would fit like a glove in what i'm planning to do... use points direct from emmcI believe this adapter is only for the OLED. No need for the Lite or V2
Hahaaha.. just clear the requirement that you need to bridge it before flashing.If the whole point of your post was to say that you (bridged) the pins temporarily during flashing, and then ultimately soldered and bridged the two points at installation, then we are saying the same thing, no?


you can solder it, it have VIA below pad, this is same with my caseI left the console on a technic...if he cannot save it i will take the picture...but the cpu is intact...the console is brand new...
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I need to get another clk and dat0 points on my switch lite since i fucked the pads near the emmc and its not connecting to the cpu anymore...this adapter (if works on switch lite emmc) would fit like a glove in what i'm planning to do... use points direct from emmc
Actually want to order that .. AON6512, as it is easier to purchase from my local e-shop. Will also try other simillar one just for the joyness of testing. Because not everyone can order/wait from aliexpress.. hahaha.This is my thinking:
The idea of the glitch is to cut the voltage that running the chip by Short Circuit it to the ground at a particular time. If it is not small then there is enough voltage for the tegra to kick in.
The RDS should be as small as possible to be working flawlessly. The more small, the better (but also higher current flow in the DS side). Ideally its 0 ohm which is totally cut the voltage that goes to the chip.
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How about AON6512 similar price. I read from datasheet [email protected] is 2.4 milliohm which is 10x lower than 8342 25 milliohm. And it has 10x higher Id 150A compared to the 8342 which is 19A. Vgs similar to 8342 around 4.5V, if i read from the graphic in the datasheet it work with the 3.3v (came from the pico).
For comparisson the original recomended mosfet is Infineon 8342 has RSDOn 20 uohm @4.5v ...Actually want to order that .. AON6512, as it is easier to purchase from my local e-shop. Will also try other simillar one just for the joyness of testing. Because not everyone can order/wait from aliexpress.. hahaha.
This looks like a good alternative, as well it would be easier to solder.I search the popular n channel mosfets with a reasonable price and the low rds, AON6512 is the champion. With similar price, outbeat all the spec at the same class, low Rds (2.4 mohm), high Id 120A, and low Vgs in the range of 2-4V (from the graphics). Also low gate current. Its the best suited for picofly. I am gonna test it too, bought 4pcs.
I hope the size will fit, it looks bigger than 8342.
Googling hwfly flex use np2016 (can't find the price seems similar around $1). The [email protected] is 9mohms lower than 8342 (25mohm), but lower amps 16A compare to 19A in 8342.
I ripped my own capacitors off on my first ever install on my own Pikachu/Eevee edition switchAnd then soldered two off the rp2040-zero that I robbed in order to fix it
Also, here ya go, watch from this time tag and he reballs/replaces this chip
You have solder Flux? just use it to clean that bridge, before you do anything else. As long as no ripped component then you should be able to undo using flux.Hi, i tried to solder the 3.3v wire to the point showed in the picofly guide ( in a mariko v2) but i accidentally soldered the cap with the one near above, making a bridge between them.
When trying to undo this bridge i damaged the bottom cap and wired to the upper one that seems to be 3.3v too. So now is a bridge between the two component made by the 3.3v wire.
Is this ok? Or i should try to undo this and change to the point in emmc board? I put a image to see where is now the 3.3v wire soldered
Thank you