Picofly AIO Thread

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I've fixed a few by bending the Switch back into 'shape' and reflowing the APU, rough estimate 50\50 chance of working again.
ouch... it's really a dice roll then? Do you think it's the inner traces that taken damage or solder joints? Since in theory a reball would work (even if it's a pissing hell to fix)
 
Yeah, I think it mostly happen to dropped Switches. So the solder joints crack

From my experience, it's almost always that they're bent.
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ouch... it's really a dice roll then? Do you think it's the inner traces that taken damage or solder joints? Since in theory a reball would work (even if it's a pissing hell to fix)
Not sure. Now that I'm more confident in my reballing technique, I can't wait to try a reball on a BSOD. Pretty sure I've read that it could be RAM related as well.
 
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From my experience, it's almost always that they're bent.
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Not sure. Now that I'm more confident in my reballing technique, I can't wait to try a reball on a BSOD. Pretty sure I've read that it could be RAM related as well.
Can probably be a lot. I hope you find a fix for it.
 
From my experience, it's almost always that they're bent.
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Not sure. Now that I'm more confident in my reballing technique, I can't wait to try a reball on a BSOD. Pretty sure I've read that it could be RAM related as well.
Yeah
.. all i read and videos i saw is related to cpu or ram...
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ANyone knows if this adapter works on a switch lite emmc? Really interested in do it but dont know if works...it will give me a lot of tjme if works
 

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Yeah
.. all i read and videos i saw is related to cpu or ram...
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ANyone knows if this adapter works on a switch lite emmc? Really interested in do it but dont know if works...it will give me a lot of tjme if works

Can you clean the APU and send us a picture of it and the surrounding area?
 
Leave them bridged
In my experience it doesnt need to be bridged at the time you flash, you can bridged it after flashed. I usually bridged them manually using rj45 just to see n test the led signature to know the flash is successfull. Then i remove manual cable and bridged it with solder tin at the time of instalation.
 
In my experience it doesnt need to be bridged at the time you flash, you can bridged it after flashed. I usually bridged them manually using rj45 just to see n test the led signature to know the flash is successfull. Then i remove manual cable and bridged it with solder tin at the time of instalation.
If the whole point of your post was to say that you (bridged) the pins temporarily during flashing, and then ultimately soldered and bridged the two points at installation, then we are saying the same thing, no?
 
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Yeah
.. all i read and videos i saw is related to cpu or ram...
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ANyone knows if this adapter works on a switch lite emmc? Really interested in do it but dont know if works...it will give me a lot of tjme if works
I believe this adapter is only for the OLED. No need for the Lite or V2
 
Can you clean the APU and send us a picture of it and the surrounding area?
I left the console on a technic...if he cannot save it i will take the picture...but the cpu is intact...the console is brand new...
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I believe this adapter is only for the OLED. No need for the Lite or V2
I need to get another clk and dat0 points on my switch lite since i fucked the pads near the emmc and its not connecting to the cpu anymore...this adapter (if works on switch lite emmc) would fit like a glove in what i'm planning to do... use points direct from emmc
 
Last edited by Flaviocarvalho,
If the whole point of your post was to say that you (bridged) the pins temporarily during flashing, and then ultimately soldered and bridged the two points at installation, then we are saying the same thing, no?
Hahaaha.. just clear the requirement that you need to bridge it before flashing.
Although you need to do that anyway to test it or install it and to make it even work. Either way yeah its the same.. 😁

Anyway i have one theory that alternative mosfet requirement not only the Voltage and Current rating but the most important is the RSDOn rating/value.
The working one is between 15-10 uohm.
Because ive tested the one with 30 uohm and it didnt work.
For the love of science i will order new mosfet with < 10 uohm, let see how it will go. It will be different brand so maybe cannot directly compared the specsheet alone, but let see, i can be wrong though, but hey its a hobby and science right?
,🤗
 
I left the console on a technic...if he cannot save it i will take the picture...but the cpu is intact...the console is brand new...
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I need to get another clk and dat0 points on my switch lite since i fucked the pads near the emmc and its not connecting to the cpu anymore...this adapter (if works on switch lite emmc) would fit like a glove in what i'm planning to do... use points direct from emmc
you can solder it, it have VIA below pad, this is same with my case
 
This is my thinking:

The idea of the glitch is to cut the voltage that running the chip by Short Circuit it to the ground at a particular time. If it is not small then there is enough voltage for the tegra to kick in.

The RDS should be as small as possible to be working flawlessly. The more small, the better (but also higher current flow in the DS side). Ideally its 0 ohm which is totally cut the voltage that goes to the chip.
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How about AON6512 similar price. I read from datasheet [email protected] is 2.4 milliohm which is 10x lower than 8342 25 milliohm. And it has 10x higher Id 150A compared to the 8342 which is 19A. Vgs similar to 8342 around 4.5V, if i read from the graphic in the datasheet it work with the 3.3v (came from the pico).
Actually want to order that .. AON6512, as it is easier to purchase from my local e-shop. Will also try other simillar one just for the joyness of testing. Because not everyone can order/wait from aliexpress.. hahaha.
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Actually want to order that .. AON6512, as it is easier to purchase from my local e-shop. Will also try other simillar one just for the joyness of testing. Because not everyone can order/wait from aliexpress.. hahaha.
For comparisson the original recomended mosfet is Infineon 8342 has RSDOn 20 uohm @4.5v ...
But the one i used three times in a row with single mosfet, the OnSemi 7672 has 6 uohm @4.5v.
Maybe sometime need to double the mosfet install because you will cut the resistance when you paralell it. So it make sense. .. maybe .. i dont know..
Need to wait for next week to new component arrive and test.
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I just ordered these mosfet to test. All are Alpha Omega.
AON7400A @ .4$
AON6414A @ .5$
AON36312 @ .8$
AON6512 @ 1$
AON6792 @ 1.1$
Will update next week for the test result.
 
Last edited by cgtchy0412,
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I search the popular n channel mosfets with a reasonable price and the low rds, AON6512 is the champion. With similar price, outbeat all the spec at the same class, low Rds (2.4 mohm), high Id 120A, and low Vgs in the range of 2-4V (from the graphics). Also low gate current. Its the best suited for picofly. I am gonna test it too, bought 4pcs.

I hope the size will fit, it looks bigger than 8342.

Googling hwfly flex use np2016 (can't find the price seems similar around $1). The [email protected] is 9mohms lower than 8342 (25mohm), but lower amps 16A compare to 19A in 8342.
This looks like a good alternative, as well it would be easier to solder.

Though the package size of the AON6512 seems to be 5 x 6 mm (VS 2 x 2 mm of the IRFHS8342), probably the shield between SoC and RAM needs to go down. I suppose we'll find out soon, looking forward for your results.
 
I ripped my own capacitors off on my first ever install on my own Pikachu/Eevee edition switch :yayswitch: And then soldered two off the rp2040-zero that I robbed in order to fix it :rolleyes:

Also, here ya go, watch from this time tag and he reballs/replaces this chip

did you use hot air for installing the capacitors? will it not damage the apu?
 
Hi, i tried to solder the 3.3v wire to the point showed in the picofly guide ( in a mariko v2) but i accidentally soldered the cap with the one near above, making a bridge between them.
When trying to undo this bridge i damaged the bottom cap and wired to the upper one that seems to be 3.3v too. So now is a bridge between the two component made by the 3.3v wire.
Is this ok? Or i should try to undo this and change to the point in emmc board? I put a image to see where is now the 3.3v wire soldered
Thank you
 

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Hi, i tried to solder the 3.3v wire to the point showed in the picofly guide ( in a mariko v2) but i accidentally soldered the cap with the one near above, making a bridge between them.
When trying to undo this bridge i damaged the bottom cap and wired to the upper one that seems to be 3.3v too. So now is a bridge between the two component made by the 3.3v wire.
Is this ok? Or i should try to undo this and change to the point in emmc board? I put a image to see where is now the 3.3v wire soldered
Thank you
You have solder Flux? just use it to clean that bridge, before you do anything else. As long as no ripped component then you should be able to undo using flux.
 

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