Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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must check it
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use other soldering point work better
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looks like wrong soldering job
Could it have been working fine three days before if it's the wrong soldering?
 
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it's not that complicated as you describing the whole install...if you want to uninstall just reverse the process witch is about 30 sec...i dont know what you have in mind...
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I never said it was complicated, I basically just said it 'adds unneeded steps', and you're forgetting about the time to reinstall it.

Think your fan is never going to die? Never want to replace the thermal paste again? Sure hope you only charge with an official charger and never mess up plugging it in.
Come on if you want to replace the fan or whatever you just unscrew the shield and lift a little bit the rp2040…
I can’t understand why you make it look like a problem
 
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I am looking to mod 2 Zelda Oleds. One for me and one for my friend. We both need a suitable modchip, ideally with a DAT cable premade.
Could someone recommend us a good chip? Perhaps in PM?
 
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I've fully resolder, make data wires shorter, but still got blue->pink(or purple?). After soldering GRB/RGB points together pico shows blue->green lights (and starts ofw with 2101-0001 error). Also, can someone say do my switch have toshiba emmc or not?
yes, its a toshiba but toshiba is supported
 
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I was soldring all point on v1 nintendo switch on motherboard only 3v3 on nand sd chip i tern on it was blue then red i soldering GND it was Disconnect after that blue then green in dock put nothing show dock blinking. The lite after try see what boot on tv. Then it is back purpel. No more tern on.i think some thing wrong on sd nand me be.
 
Last edited by Danook28,
Your 50 (49.9) ohm resistors threw me a little bit, but those should be alright, considering you were booting. Is it possible that your wire attached to the resistor on pin 26 is intermittently hitting the ground pad of your removed button, and foiling the picofly glitch?
yes, I noticed this problem at the assembly stage and fixed it, it's just that this is the first photo, 50 ohm resistors, other people put them, they also work like 47
 
must check it
I've just received the resistors in the mail and promptly replaced the old resistors with them.
51R (both 0603/0805 package) measure at about 50.2-50.4Ohms (sample size: 20 resistors) and the glitch times are expectedly just as good as with 100R in parallel and better than with the 47R resistors with the aforementioned SKHynix 64GB emmc.
I'd love to hear from rehius what his thoughts are on that matter though, before something goes electrically haywire in the long run, as I'd rather not fry my switch by assuming things.

Also: Pics of the installation because everyone and their dog seems to do it. :creep:
Fluffy bits were from q-tips, before I cleaned up the flux, everything relevant was afterwards gently tacked down using 3D printing resin (The solder mask I got in China a few years ago wasn't really reacting to UV light anymore. Ew.).
 

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I've fully resolder, make data wires shorter, but still got blue->pink(or purple?). After soldering GRB/RGB points together pico shows blue->green lights (and starts ofw with 2101-0001 error). Also, can someone say do my switch have toshiba emmc or not?
Is it charging?
Going through the thread it seems that in most cases the error you are seeing is caused by faulty M92T36 chip.
 
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Is it charging?
Going through the thread it seems that in most cases the error you are seeing is caused by faulty M92T36 chip.
Yes, percentage goes up
upd: forgot to mention - error disappeared after I solder ground to another point
 

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So @Haseo13 was right, using different soldering points fixed the issue?
At first I tried to solder on the one side of emmc and also resolder ground, but it didn't help with pico, same led colors. Will try different points later and post results. Also, is it fine if I solder on board only D0, CMD and CLK, leaving power and RST on emmc?
 
At first I tried to solder on the one side of emmc and also resolder ground, but it didn't help with pico, same led colors. Will try different points later and post results. Also, is it fine if I solder on board only D0, CMD and CLK, leaving power and RST on emmc?
Yes, you can mix-and-match the soldering points as you see fit for your installation.
 
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It seems that the problem was really in the resistor, but I don’t know which one, so I replaced everything and it helped. At least for a while)

Its not clear for me. So You replace the CMD resistor and now its working?

Anyway i'm almost sure purple screen is mostly caused by blown cmd resistor.
 
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At first I tried to solder on the one side of emmc and also resolder ground, but it didn't help with pico, same led colors. Will try different points later and post results. Also, is it fine if I solder on board only D0, CMD and CLK, leaving power and RST on emmc?
Also, when soldering to board, is it necessary to solder to one point, or i can solder to two nearby points(marked them on picture with red line on d0, cmd, clk lines)?
 

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