Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

  • Thread starter Thread starter mathew77
  • Start date Start date
  • Views Views 3,672,161
  • Replies Replies 17,052
  • Likes Likes 15
Maybe for Toshiba the value suited is not 47ohm but 100ohm, need more confirmation for people who actually install on Toshiba nand.

Its one for all solution, so there could be some nand not suited with the resistance value.
Post automatically merged:


I used what people used (under the flex cable), its worked.
This also confirmed:
View attachment 370834
Toshiba works with 47ohm
 
  • Like
Reactions: abal1000x
Maybe for Toshiba the value suited is not 47ohm but 100ohm, need more confirmation for people who actually install on Toshiba nand.

Its one for all solution, so there could be some nand not suited with the resistance value.
Post automatically merged:


I used what people used (under the flex cable), its worked.
This also confirmed:
View attachment 370834
I used this
Maybe for Toshiba the value suited is not 47ohm but 100ohm, need more confirmation for people who actually install on Toshiba nand.

Its one for all solution, so there could be some nand not suited with the resistance value.
Post automatically merged:


I used what people used (under the flex cable), its worked.
This also confirmed:
View attachment 370834
i used this
 

Attachments

  • lite 3v3 alternate.png
    lite 3v3 alternate.png
    191 KB · Views: 96
  • Like
Reactions: abal1000x
Yes ir cyna problem with mosfer.Make now over 30 + oled check install
Post automatically merged:

Solved. The problem caused by the DAT0 adapter. I encoutered this issue a few times when the adapter bridges more ball or balls even if the adapter is not soldered by hot air. Simply the little half ring at the adapter touch more balls then needed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Takezo-San
(I am not an expert of EMMC)

Read from the datasheet of toshiba and samsung seems like CMD/CLK/DAT-N need to be 50 Ohms impedance (the default).View attachment 370835

Maybe for toshiba, try to use 50 ohms (maybe they strict with the value)
or use the others like 33ohms 66ohms 100ohms or 40ohms.
This basically coincides with my findings about the SKHynix H26M74002HMR in its datasheet.
47Ohms was *a bit* fluky when it came to glitching, 2x100Ohms in parallel (~=50Ohms) per emmc line works a bit better.
I'm currently evaluating if using 51R (given 10% manufacturing tolerance, so hopefully they'll measure at =<50,5R when they arrive) will have the same effect, as using stacked 1206 resistors isn't quite the solution I've had hoped to use in the long run.
 
Greetings! Another problem. Yesterday my switch was working fine. Today I turn on - a purple screen. After the reboot, it was possible to start the drain, but after a couple of seconds an error occurred. Through time it is possible to get into the recovery menu, even did a reset to the factory settings. But still purple screen or error.
20230512_100842.jpg

20230512_100729.jpg

After another reboot i have this:
20230512_112536.jpg

But then:
20230512_111644.jpg
 
Last edited by nqtal,
First, check that different cards are not really working. Second, open your switch to check if at any time you did any damage in any area when you were installing the picofly. Third, check components near the SD slot. Fourth, If you still have the same problem, you can upload close-up images of everything you were touching so we can see and help better.
I have a pictures lite.
What to check when the micro card does not work?
Before picofly running, i create emunand. But next day, picofly not working and lite only run OFW.

345057616_9156258544448807_4180293219196401475_n.jpg
345070875_577694750857733_8280810447767619328_n.jpg

345115272_618104083533083_294229363869836835_n.jpg

Today, i remove pico but fault microsd still showing error.
 
Tried to install picofly, but got blue then pink (purple) light (and on switch got 2101-0001 error code). What could be causing this?
I've fully resolder, make data wires shorter, but still got blue->pink(or purple?). After soldering GRB/RGB points together pico shows blue->green lights (and starts ofw with 2101-0001 error). Also, can someone say do my switch have toshiba emmc or not?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230512_123211.jpg
    IMG_20230512_123211.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 90
  • IMG_20230512_122837.jpg
    IMG_20230512_122837.jpg
    6.5 MB · Views: 68
This basically coincides with my findings about the SKHynix H26M74002HMR in its datasheet.
47Ohms was *a bit* fluky when it came to glitching, 2x100Ohms in parallel (~=50Ohms) per emmc line works a bit better.
I'm currently evaluating if using 51R (given 10% manufacturing tolerance, so hopefully they'll measure at =<50,5R when they arrive) will have the same effect, as using stacked 1206 resistors isn't quite the solution I've had hoped to use in the long run.
must check it
Post automatically merged:

I've fully resolder, make data wires shorter, but still got blue->pink(or purple?). After soldering GRB/RGB points together pico shows blue->green lights (and starts ofw with 2101-0001 error). Also, can someone say do my switch have toshiba emmc or not?
use other soldering point work better
Post automatically merged:

Greetings! Another problem. Yesterday my switch was working fine. Today I turn on - a purple screen. After the reboot, it was possible to start the drain, but after a couple of seconds an error occurred. Through time it is possible to get into the recovery menu, even did a reset to the factory settings. But still purple screen or error.
View attachment 370857
View attachment 370858
After another reboot i have this:
View attachment 370868
But then:
View attachment 370869
looks like wrong soldering job
 

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum