Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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Possibly I'm wrong, but I think it's 100% sure that it doesn't turn on since that capacitor is missing.

I have tried to turn it on several times and it does not respond.

A few moments before when it was, if it started and without problems.
I think what @abal1000x is suggesting, is that you could simply bridge the pads to remake the circuit and it should power on. I can't specifically recommend this for long-term, but it could be done to prove that all you need is a replacement capacitor that you could order from digikey, mouser, possibly even Amazon or AliExpress
 
I think what @abal1000x is suggesting, is that you could simply bridge the pads to remake the circuit and it should power on. I can't specifically recommend this for long-term, but it could be done to prove that all you need is a replacement capacitor that you could order from digikey, mouser, possibly even Amazon or AliExpress
I have tried what you mention and I have not succeeded, although perhaps I have not done it well. Is there a way to tell if the board is totally dead? That is, if there has been a short circuit or if, on the contrary, it can be easily solved (by me or by a professional).
 
Now before you power it again,measure the 3.3v to gnd,check any sc.Without the 3.3V cap,it is still can power on.It only clean out the 3.3V power output.
 
Now before you power it again,measure the 3.3v to gnd,check any sc.Without the 3.3V cap,it is still can power on.It only clean out the 3.3V power output.
Sorry I'm spanish and I can't understand what "sc" means. I guess shortcut, but not sure.

If there's continuity between 3.3V and ground is ok?
 
Mine without the 3.3V cap,but no issue at all.But I would like to find the value of this cap but nobody knows the value is.This is not a recommended point to solder,you can solder the alternate 3.3V point,it is much easier to solder.
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i think SC is for Short Circuit
Yes,it is.
 
Some reference on temperature when working on the apus cap.
I use 350 degrees C but it seems difficult to melt the factory tin in the cap.
Maybe someone could give some reference on the temperature.
Proper soldering skill isn't exactly covered in the guide, but I can see how that would be useful. Most folks don't seem to have an issue, and if they do, it's typically indicative of a lack of skill. They just need more practice and this project was a little more difficult than they were likely ready for.
 
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It doesn't fit at the APU's right side? Near of ground's lite soldering point.

It was my intention, because I will start this night hopefully.
Yes it does fit to the right of the apu - This is where I put mine as it has slighly more room over emmc but I still cut alumi sheild and put kapton tape over chip - No bluge no pressure fits perfect.
 
Proper soldering skill isn't exactly covered in the guide, but I can see how that would be useful. Most folks don't seem to have an issue, and if they do, it's typically indicative of a lack of skill. They just need more practice and this project was a little more difficult than they were likely ready for.
Hnec emy warning on the aio thread :O
 
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See my post in the AIO thread, we'll try to help you over there.
welp, it works, everything works now but for the life of me i cant make an emmunand or backup my toshiba nand. it always gets stuck somewhere. No error, no nothing, just gets stuck. I tried exfat and fat32 formats but nothin seems to work
 
I wanted to share valuable lesson I learned today as I know that might help other troubleshoot the issues with glitching.

I was testing my mosfets from Aliexpress using method shown in this video

So I charged the mosfet by putting positive lead of my multimeter on gate and negative on source.

As expected multimeter was showing 0.000 voltage drop between drain and source.

Then I wanted to discharge the mosfet so I shorted gate and drain and it should show 0L when checking drain and source but no matter what I tried it was showing all the time voltage drop of around 2.9V. Resistance was very high around 3.7 MegaOhms but it should be infinite.

I was pulling my hair as to what is going on. Nothing worked, all the time the mosfet was partially charged, it wasn't fully On but it was impossible to completely turn it off.

And then in struck me... @rehius mentioned about problems when there is flux on RST line. Suddenly I remembered that there is flux on my mosfet too.

I cleaned it with IPA alcohol and Voilà - mosfet started to act as expected. Charging and discharging on each try.

Moral of the story, some of you have problems with glitching sometimes not working. CLEAN YOUR FLUX!!!
 
@KarimPolska So all I need for my Lite is the "Lite curved cable" for $14 Canadian. That makes sense! For whatever reason, the Ali link I was on only showed me the set that included the "lite straight cable" as well for more money. Thank you!!!
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@KarimPolska Can you confirm that these cables also have the integrated MOSFETs?
Yes, they do have the mosfets otherwise they would be of no use. The mosfets are housed under the shiny end on the right
 
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I think what @abal1000x is suggesting, is that you could simply bridge the pads to remake the circuit and it should power on. I can't specifically recommend this for long-term, but it could be done to prove that all you need is a replacement capacitor that you could order from digikey, mouser, possibly even Amazon or AliExpress
A capacitor is usualy placed between VCC and Ground to smoothen or to reduce noise/ripple.
So one side is positive voltage, the other side is ground. If you've damaged the trace or accidentally removed the cap then it's probably ok to leave it as is without the capacitor, it could cause instability though. But you don't want to bridge the 2 pads. Bridging these will cause a short cirquit and will cause damage to the system.
 
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