yes, but you can take the cap from RP2040, check previous pageView attachment 362000
I got red on program and cyan now.......But gg cap
Im guessing this is needed and can't be left like this?
yes, but you can take the cap from RP2040, check previous pageView attachment 362000
I got red on program and cyan now.......But gg cap
Im guessing this is needed and can't be left like this?
The 2.5 version checks the id of the SPI flash on the pico and doesn't work on any pico using different flash. Including the standard Pico. Wait until version 2.6 is released. It should work with 2.6.Does anyone know if this fw works with regular pi pico instead of this zero variant?
I understand it's too big, but it prolly works for testing purposes.
yes, but you can take the cap from RP2040, check previous page
Do you have flux? That will be helpful for such a task. Flux makes the solder flow and cleans the components connection points from dirt and corrosion. If you don't have that then this will be difficult.View attachment 362002
Bad I know, but should work in theory... Tried to get the cap back on from 2040 but it would not stick no matter what.... Still cyan
Ofc I have flux, its whats all over the place in the pictures. It was hard to solder to before it broke so I assume it absorbs more heat and thats why i had my temp higher which resulted in the cap being pulledDo you have flux? That will be helpful for such a task. Flux makes the solder flow and cleans the components connection points from dirt and corrosion. If you don't have that then this will be difficult.
The right wire on the mosfet is soldered badly.
add a second mosfet on the right cap, it seems your CPU requires more power to glitchView attachment 362002
Bad I know, but should work in theory... Tried to get the cap back on from 2040 but it would not stick no matter what.... Still cyan
Alright solder wire with flux core also leaves this kind of residue. Why is the black wire going to the metal casing? The right side of the capacitor is the voltage supply. If you ground this it will be a dead short.Ofc I have flux, its whats all over the place in the pictures. It was hard to solder to before it broke so I assume it absorbs more heat and thats why i had my temp higher which resulted in the cap being pulled
Why the MOSFET chip in your picture is so big, definitely not IRFHS8342. IRFHS8342 I have bought it, it is too small. What's the model of your successful MOSFET?It's the recommended IRFHS8342. I had also tried an AO3400, but that didn't work at all.
Some of those end connections don't look tinned, so no connection.
Still pink flash then ofw.....I can't see whats wrong
add a second mosfet on the right cap, it seems your CPU requires more power to glitch
(a thick wire from the same mosfet to the second cap might be also enough)
It's definitely that. It's 2x2 mm. What might be confusing you is the larger double sided tape it's stuck to to keep it from moving around.Why the MOSFET chip in your picture is so big, definitely not IRFHS8342. IRFHS8342 I have bought it, it is too small. What's the model of your successful MOSFET?
look at your MPHi guys, after having carried out all the weldings, what should I do to start hekate? does it start directly with the firmware on the rp2040? I think I have to prepare the sd card, can you give me a guide to do it? it's the first time I enter the "switch" world
Gonna be soldering / install - Never have had this issue with 47 ohm and hwfly flex's.So far im noticing what feels like every other boot it gives cyan mosfet led and boots to ofw, and other boots it loads hekate.
I think the double mosfet is a bit finnicky. Hopefully this is just a rare occurrence and others don't have this issue. But system is buttoned up and looking great
I would wait another month or so before having a picofly installed by someone else, right now the firmware is still being worked on and not all issues are known.Don’t really know a lot about modchips myself, I’ve got a local guy who probably modded more than 200 switches so far, talked with him about the picofly for a bit. Seems like a knowledgeable guy, talked about all the other stuff that I don’t understand about circutry (he works with other consoles too). He told me that it is still unkown if this is a safe choice in long run and that it was a bit more risky than the regular HWFLY chip installations. But he told me that he could install it in my v2 if I really wanted to (never installed it, my console will be his first experience with picofly). What y’all think, should I trust him with the picofly and let him install it or should I pay 100€ (chip and installation included) for the HWFLY (same guy, but for sure he is pretty darn good with hwfly, cheapest dude who mods switches too)? Is it worth taking that risk for 80 euros?
Try with the flex next time you open itSo far im noticing what feels like every other boot it gives cyan mosfet led and boots to ofw, and other boots it loads hekate.
I think the double mosfet is a bit finnicky. Hopefully this is just a rare occurrence and others don't have this issue. But system is buttoned up and looking great