Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[twins333]

My emmc is samsung.
I have never seen anything about extra resistors in the guides I have seen.

Toshiba is the best Nand out of the all the Nands out there.

I did a kamikaze on a Toshiba Nand Oled recently with rp2040 zero original board (none hwfly) and I didn't even need to replace the cmd and dat0 resistors at all.

Like I said, it's all over this thread.
For example here: https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10271533
Some used the 100/100/47 by default without issues some are using 47/47/47. from what I've seen, a good install with quality parts will work fine with both. the 100/100/47 can help with slow emmc init errors, so why not use that by default.
This is a very long thread and Abal has deleted his messages, but I think you will find some info on why it might be better to stick with higher value resistors.
Cheers!

 

[westleyaaj]

Like I said, it's all over this thread.
For example here: https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10271533
Some used the 100/100/47 by default without issues some are using 47/47/47. from what I've seen, a good install with quality parts will work fine with both. the 100/100/47 can help with slow emmc init errors, so why not use that by default.
This is a very long thread and Abal has deleted his messages, but I think you will find some info on why it might be better to stick with higher value resistors.
Cheers!

I have a 3 in 1 mod chip how can I add more resistors?

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

I have a 3 in 1 mod chip how can I add more resistors?

By replacing the existing resistors on the modchip pcb if you used the flex cables.
If you are using wires, you put the extra resistor just in between the wire and the PCB.

 

[MikaChan]

Hey all. There's a weird issue I've been experiencing since I modded my Switch.

So, basically, I have an OLED with a generic Picofly (the kind from AliExpress that comes with the flex cables and whatnot, I have an actual Waveshare RP2040-tiny as backup as well but it's not installed).

Anyway, when I boot my OLED, it only actually boots about 10% of the time. Because of this, when I want to restart my Switch, I sometimes spend hours hard rebooting it until the chip successfully glitches again. When the chip glitches correctly, my Switch does boot straight into Hekate but otherwise, the chip seems to go into training mode and the Switch stays on a black screen. When I connect it to my PC, it shows up as "APX". I assume this means it's in recovery mode, so I hard reboot it again and repeat until it boots successfully. Eventually it does, especially if I leave it on recovery mode for about an hour and then reboot again.

Usually, no error code is given by the chip. The LED goes off after it boots into the black screen recovery mode. Occasionally, it will give me a solid red light or a solid green light (it seems to use the old HWFly coloured error codes, even though it's a picofly with Rehius' firmware flashed to it but neither of the solid lights seem to be relevant or congruent with the error codes displayed in the famous HWFly error code chart). Any ideas what might be going on? Restarting my Switch is such a pain and I don't generally get to enjoy my Linux install or update any overlays etc because of the nightmare of restarting it.

I should also add that, though I have tons of experience with modding, I didn't install the chip myself. I wasn't brave enough to take a soldering iron to my OLED's motherboard so I got a professional to do it lol

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

So, basically, I have an OLED with a generic Picofly (the kind from AliExpress that comes with the flex cables and whatnot, I have an actual Waveshare RP2040-tiny as backup as well but it's not installed).
Anyway, when I boot my OLED, it only actually boots about 10% of the time.

Picofly's generate error codes with short/long pulses these days, not color codes.
So maybe you have a Hwfly clone?
Maybe it's time to take a look inside and take some pictures.
We were just talking about adding resistors for certain emmc brands.
Maybe that can also solve your issue.

 

[MikaChan]

Picofly's generate error codes with short/long pulses these days, not color codes.
So maybe you have a Hwfly clone?
Maybe it's time to take a look inside and take some pictures.
We were just talking about adding resistors for certain emmc brands.
Maybe that can also solve your issue.

I thought so too but it works fine with picofly firmware and it works with picofly toolbox but not with hwfly toolbox. I suppose it might be time for a revision. I know someone else I can send it to. Maybe I can even have him swap the chip out for the Waveshare one.

 

[elTwingo]

Hi everyone,
I have an issue with an oled switch (sry for my english, i'm french and i'm doing my best). I did several v2 chip mod (5) and one oled switch successfully. I tried another oled switch and for some reason I have issues with it. I am asking some help here because I had no reason on reddit thread =(

My case is:
- Picofly mod with flex cables on Oled switch
- Adaptater solution
- Good diode values except for C point : 0.4 which is very stable but a bit low
- EmuNand working fine
- Glitch working most of the time but some times I have *== error code
- Still have 2002-3539 error code when the glitch failed
- Check all solders many times and everything seems good
- eMMC benchmark is good
- sd benchmark is good
- OFW is working for minutes and then randomly crash with error code 2002-3539. I can play some games before crash happens
- Some times instead of crashing with error code, the OFW freeze and I can heard a "poc" sound when turning the switch off
- Same issues with another chip
- Switch is working fine with the chip unplug

I read that the solution should be to add resistors but I don't really know what resistors and where put them. Can someone help me ?

Thanks in advance

 

[cowboy619]

Hi everyone,
I have an issue with an oled switch (sry for my english, i'm french and i'm doing my best). I did several v2 chip mod (5) and one oled switch successfully. I tried another oled switch and for some reason I have issues with it. I am asking some help here because I had no reason on reddit thread =(

My case is:
- Picofly mod with flex cables on Oled switch
- Adaptater solution
- Good diode values except for C point : 0.4 which is very stable but a bit low
- EmuNand working fine
- Glitch working most of the time but some times I have *== error code
- Still have 2002-3539 error code when the glitch failed
- Check all solders many times and everything seems good
- eMMC benchmark is good
- sd benchmark is good
- OFW is working for minutes and then randomly crash with error code 2002-3539. I can play some games before crash happens
- Some times instead of crashing with error code, the OFW freeze and I can heard a "poc" sound when turning the switch off
- Same issues with another chip
- Switch is working fine with the chip unplug

I read that the solution should be to add resistors but I don't really know what resistors and where put them. Can someone help me ?

Thanks in advance

add 47ohm resistors to dat0 and cmd - both points need to have a total of 100ohms so dat 0 100ohm and cmd 100ohm

 

[elTwingo]

add 47ohm resistors to dat0 and cmd - both points need to have a total of 100ohms so dat 0 100ohm and cmd 100ohm

Thank you for the response, for the dat0 I can solder a resistor on the cable but for the CMD, how should I do ? I don't really know how to mesure resistor values, is it like diode values, black on GND + red on points on the chip ?

I see that there is wattage with resistors, which one should I take ?

 

[cowboy619]

Thank you for the response, for the dat0 I can solder a resistor on the cable but for the CMD, how should I do ? I don't really know how to mesure resistor values, is it like diode values, black on GND + red on points on the chip ?

I see that there is wattage with resistors, which one should I take ?

you add the resistors to the resistors on the chip itself. Not on the wires - check the resistors on the chip

 

[elTwingo]

you add the resistors to the resistors on the chip itself. Not on the wires - check the resistors on the chip

Ok so I have to solder a resistor on existant resistors on the chip itself ? Do you think you can do a little schema base on a chip pictures ? I found 0 pictures about this on internet =(

 

[twins333]

Ok so I have to solder a resistor on existant resistors on the chip itself ? Do you think you can do a little schema base on a chip pictures ? I found 0 pictures about this on internet =(


View attachment 496671

I guess you can use diode mode. put one probe on the chip's CMD point and check connectivity with all resistors on the modchip. one of them should bip on one side and give a 47ohm reading on the other side. set the multimeter to the ohm sign an verify the identified resistor's value, it should be 47 ohms. replace that resistor with a 100ohm one.

 

[elTwingo]

I guess you can use diode mode. put one probe on the chip's CMD point and check connectivity with all resistors on the modchip. one of them should bip on one side and give a 47ohm reading on the other side. set the multimeter to the ohm sign an verify the identified resistor's value, it should be 47 ohms. replace that resistor with a 100ohm one.

Okay thank you very much I see exactly what to do then, what kind of resistor should I buy as replacement ? I see different Wattage on internet.
I dont have warm air gun, can I solder it with a good iron ?

I found this on internet its 0402 1/16 W, is that good ? If yes, there is the same box ±1% tolerance at same price

 

[twins333]

Okay thank you very much I see exactly what to do then, what kind of resistor should I buy as replacement ? I see different Wattage on internet.
I dont have warm air gun, can I solder it with a good iron ?

I found this on internet its 0402 1/16 W, is that good ? If yes, there is the same box ±1% tolerance at same price
View attachment 496853

0402 might be ok, but you can always check the guide here: https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/download

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

Okay thank you very much I see exactly what to do then, what kind of resistor should I buy as replacement ? I see different Wattage on internet.

But I would recommend getting the same size as the original ones if you're going to replace them on the pcb. Then it will be a perfect fit.
The guide mentions 0805 resistors but that is because those are a nice fit for the pads on the RP2040/Waveshare board. Custom RP2040 modchips usually have smaller sizes.
Of course, technically speaking you can take any resistor :

I dont have warm air gun, can I solder it with a good iron ?

The trick is to have the resistor stick to your soldering iron or wipe it to the edge of the board.
Practice that on some old PCB first.
It can be a bit tricky of you need to wipe a resistor from it's location if that resistor is in between other resistors. Nearby resistors do heat up as well sometimes.
Sometimes adding some flux and fresh solder helps loosening up the resistor.

 

[elTwingo]

Thank you, for sure it is 0402 resistor on my picofly, I will try to change it

 

[voltron4lyfe]

I have an OLED Switch that I attempted the Kamikaze mod on and I went way too deep resulting in severing at least the Dat0 line and the one next to it. I then rebuilt the traces and think I did that correctly but the screen is black and it won't boot into the original firmware or glitch successfully. The picofly gives a "*==" error code which means "bad wiring". I also have a Dat0 adapter installed and I verified continuity between the trace I repaired and the dat0 adapter.

This is probably beyond saving but I'm wondering what steps I should walk through to try and diagnose the issue. Mostly as a learning experience.

I also replace the CMD resistor and it measures as 4.7k.

 

[elTwingo]

Here is news !

This is what I found on my picofly OLED chip :

The three 0201 resistors on top are located between the chip and the switch, and they follow the same order as the points on the left.


In my case, I had:
D: 47
A: 47
C: 250


As @cowboy619 suggested, and according to what I found here: https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly...sappear-after-rebooting.657060/#post-10447635,
I needed to change the resistors to better-suited values.


Most of the time, you shouldn’t touch these, but if your setup is otherwise fine and you're still getting the 2002-3539 error, try replacing the A resistor with a 100Ω or 150Ω one.
In my case, I used a 0402 resistor, which is slightly bigger, it was easier to solder.
Be careful when removing the old one; you can damage the trace if you apply too much force. I used a lot of flux and copper wick.


Since doing this, I haven’t seen the 2002-3539 error in the past three days.

Another issue:


I was also getting a random *== error code on boot sometimes, not a big deal, but I wanted to fix it.
I did two things, and the issue disappeared, though I’m not sure which one actually solved it.

1. I tried changing the C resistor to 350Ω. I didn’t have one of that value, so I used a 500Ω resistor instead, and everything still works fine.
2. I noticed the flex cable coming from the CPU was too close to the CPU shield. I thought it might be putting too much pressure on it, so I added some Kapton tape in between.

Question:
Quick question if anyone knows
Is it risky to use a 500Ω resistor for point C?
It works fine for me, but in the thread I read, the recommended value was 350Ω, not 500Ω.

UPDATE:

Its more rare but I still have som
e times *== error. I dont know at all where this issue comes from. I think its more like interferences between flex cables and CPU shield. I think changing C resistor was useless.

 

[SilcVale]

Could anybody help me find which components around the RST point i have just accidentally removed on my Mariko V2 board (HAD-CPU-01)
I Know it was 2 small resistors below the RST pad though i dont know there values.
Above the RST pad was a larger black components (diode maybe?) whose value i also do not know.
Here is a photo of the stripped area, just besides the EMMC connector (also removed)

I had been using a picofly for around 2 years and it worked really well.

I have compared this area to my older Erista V1 board but there is a difference between the two baords in that the older erista does not have a larger black component in that same area.

 

[Danook28]

is there bluetooth part can fix or replace inside nintendo switch v1 coz every time disconect joycon from console it is not connect wiresless or bluetooth same every nintendo switch. wifi is working fine so what happend!!!!