New 3dS XL Damaged audio jack, damaged cable connector, can I just replace the mother board?

[caliskier]

Hi,

So my son broke off the headphones in the jack and I damaged the jack trying to remove it. I removed the motherboard to fix the jack and damaged one of the cable connectors. Specifically the one that has a little gray square the you flip up and the cable is close the the power port, its clear and has four wires. That little gray square on the connector for that cable broke and I could not get it back in. I see a couple of options...

1. I found someone on ebay that will sell me an audio jack. I could just glue or tape the cable back on and resolder the new headphone jack
2. I could just replace the entire motherboard, but I did not know if that was specific to the console, like the the operating system was on it and changing the motherboard causes some kind of error (kinda like when you change your processor on a windows machine). Can I replace the motherboard out right without any problems?

Thoughts? Thanks

 

[KleinesSinchen]

2. I could just replace the entire motherboard, but I did not know if that was specific to the console,

The motherboard is the console. Serial number, NNID linked (if any). Replacing the motherboard is replacing the identity.
If there is a purchased content you would have to call Nintendo to have the NNID unlinked to be able to link it to the new motherboard.
====

3DS are long out of production. If one can be salvaged, this is the batter way.

Please share pictures of the damage if possible. @IC_ has some experience with damaged connectors.

 

[caliskier]

The motherboard is the console. Serial number, NNID linked (if any). Replacing the motherboard is replacing the identity.
If there is a purchased content you would have to call Nintendo to have the NNID unlinked to be able to link it to the new motherboard.
====

3DS are long out of production. If one can be salvaged, this is the batter way.

Please share pictures of the damage if possible. @IC_ has some experience with damaged connectors.

The unit has been software modded, not sure if that makes a difference from the motherboard perspective.

Ok so kinda where my finger (top one) is pointing, the gray cable is supposed to plug into that slot (with 4 wires) to the left of the cable, or up in the picture. There is gray plastic flap that broke off of that connector. I am wondering how I can reconnect that connector without the flap.

 

[IC_]

Were you able to find the flap or is it long gone at this point? It's not that hard to re-attach it to the connector.
As written in one of my blog entries: "In case anyone needs to know how to install these locking pieces, you bend the pins on the connector up with some knife, get the locking piece onto them through the holes in the locking piece, and push it back down into the right position. At least that's how I do it." Unfortunately I don't have a fully detailed guide with photos for it, but it should be simple enough to figure out.

 

[FAST6191]

Several options to reconnect, each nothing I much like doing. If you can find the errant piece of plastic then there are a few better options/some might work better.

Some might find a replacement. More possible than some older devices where the connectors have not been made in 20 years but custom connector is still custom connector and you might struggle to find it on even the dedicated electronics suppliers. You could possibly pull it from a properly trashed other 3ds but such things rarely survive the desoldering, especially if you are new to this sort of thing (I consider myself good and still give myself say 60% odds/would want a stack of possibles).

Glue is a possibility. Probably go for epoxy myself but some might be able to pull off superglue (would suggest some activator as well for this one unless yours sets quick). If you have the bit of plastic now missing then that can make holding things down easier, prevent glue ingress to where you don't want it and such like. You can try to cut such a thing but tolerances are rather low.

4 wires in a connector? That is well within soldering territory. Sadly I don't see any test points nearby (don't know if any further afield) but easy enough to do for the connector itself or if the connector is removed then whatever pads it was connected to.
Wire choice can be a fun one for this. Three main ones will probably be some nice kynar wire (kynar is a heat resistant plastic as opposed to PVC or whatever that melts/burns under normal soldering temps, tends to be more expensive though), slice of a computer ribbon cable (all four things already there, pretty small, insulated and nice after all, though might be a bit fatter than is desirable) and headphone cable/enamelled cable -- enamel is the reason if you have ever pulled apart a set of old headphones that there might be very bright colours unlike normal metallic colours (You need to burn this off; I like fire myself, some will leave it in a puddle of molten solder which takes quite a while compared to not very long with a lighter and you need to throw away and clean the iron/pot for afterwards) but is a nice insulator and very very thin so easier to get into tight spots like a connector.

 

[IC_]

Several options to reconnect, each nothing I much like doing. If you can find the errant piece of plastic then there are a few better options/some might work better.

Some might find a replacement. More possible than some older devices where the connectors have not been made in 20 years but custom connector is still custom connector and you might struggle to find it on even the dedicated electronics suppliers. You could possibly pull it from a properly trashed other 3ds but such things rarely survive the desoldering, especially if you are new to this sort of thing (I consider myself good and still give myself say 60% odds/would want a stack of possibles).

Glue is a possibility. Probably go for epoxy myself but some might be able to pull off superglue (would suggest some activator as well for this one unless yours sets quick). If you have the bit of plastic now missing then that can make holding things down easier, prevent glue ingress to where you don't want it and such like. You can try to cut such a thing but tolerances are rather low.

4 wires in a connector? That is well within soldering territory. Sadly I don't see any test points nearby (don't know if any further afield) but easy enough to do for the connector itself or if the connector is removed then whatever pads it was connected to.
Wire choice can be a fun one for this. Three main ones will probably be some nice kynar wire (kynar is a heat resistant plastic as opposed to PVC or whatever that melts/burns under normal soldering temps, tends to be more expensive though), slice of a computer ribbon cable (all four things already there, pretty small, insulated and nice after all, though might be a bit fatter than is desirable) and headphone cable/enamelled cable -- enamel is the reason if you have ever pulled apart a set of old headphones that there might be very bright colours unlike normal metallic colours (You need to burn this off; I like fire myself, some will leave it in a puddle of molten solder which takes quite a while compared to not very long with a lighter and you need to throw away and clean the iron/pot for afterwards) but is a nice insulator and very very thin so easier to get into tight spots like a connector.

Both the locking piece and the entire connector should still be sold online, but in this case it's clear on the photo that it's just a matter of re-attaching the lost or a new locking piece. Soldering in this case would be too much of a risk.

 

[caliskier]

Were you able to find the flap or is it long gone at this point? It's not that hard to re-attach it to the connector.
As written in one of my blog entries: "In case anyone needs to know how to install these locking pieces, you bend the pins on the connector up with some knife, get the locking piece onto them through the holes in the locking piece, and push it back down into the right position. At least that's how I do it." Unfortunately I don't have a fully detailed guide with photos for it, but it should be simple enough to figure out.

Thank you, this one is actually different than all the others except the joystick pad one is the same. Its a little gray flap. yes i did find it but could not get it to go back in. After looking at these pictures i might be doing it wrong, looks like i have to slide it under not push it on top. I will try that ...Edit: I cracked the flap, I need to buy one. Thanks!

 

[caliskier]

Several options to reconnect, each nothing I much like doing. If you can find the errant piece of plastic then there are a few better options/some might work better.

Some might find a replacement. More possible than some older devices where the connectors have not been made in 20 years but custom connector is still custom connector and you might struggle to find it on even the dedicated electronics suppliers. You could possibly pull it from a properly trashed other 3ds but such things rarely survive the desoldering, especially if you are new to this sort of thing (I consider myself good and still give myself say 60% odds/would want a stack of possibles).

Glue is a possibility. Probably go for epoxy myself but some might be able to pull off superglue (would suggest some activator as well for this one unless yours sets quick). If you have the bit of plastic now missing then that can make holding things down easier, prevent glue ingress to where you don't want it and such like. You can try to cut such a thing but tolerances are rather low.

4 wires in a connector? That is well within soldering territory. Sadly I don't see any test points nearby (don't know if any further afield) but easy enough to do for the connector itself or if the connector is removed then whatever pads it was connected to.
Wire choice can be a fun one for this. Three main ones will probably be some nice kynar wire (kynar is a heat resistant plastic as opposed to PVC or whatever that melts/burns under normal soldering temps, tends to be more expensive though), slice of a computer ribbon cable (all four things already there, pretty small, insulated and nice after all, though might be a bit fatter than is desirable) and headphone cable/enamelled cable -- enamel is the reason if you have ever pulled apart a set of old headphones that there might be very bright colours unlike normal metallic colours (You need to burn this off; I like fire myself, some will leave it in a puddle of molten solder which takes quite a while compared to not very long with a lighter and you need to throw away and clean the iron/pot for afterwards) but is a nice insulator and very very thin so easier to get into tight spots like a connector.

Wow Thank you very much Fast6191, you are reminding me of "tronixfix" on youtube. I don't know if I am that talented. I think I have been installing it wrong and will try that. Edit: I broke the flap. Thanks for all your suggestions.