Hacking MT Card 1.2 Update Bricked!

5 days ago , sent them another one thirs morning

if they dont reply in 2 weeks, make sure you make a post in gbatemp on the right section with the website name on the title (first search if there is not one already) and post your feedback, so other people can see it and re-think about purchase and know what they expect when buy from that website
 
If mt card put out a faulty update and is not doing an official rma then the store has no obligation to take those cards back
 
From what I have read MT instructed people to request a replacement fro resellers, so I assume MT won't be funny with replacing the faulty stock for resellers.......but if it's a unofficial reseller I doubt they will want to take back cards as I doubt MT will be replacing them for un-official resellers
 
unofficial re sellers are very unlikely to take things back. I read most of the TOS
Contact the re seller before you buy it and ask them
 
If mt card put out a faulty update and is not doing an official rma then the store has no obligation to take those cards back

What planet are you on?

Have you ever shopped at say, target, Amazon or some other store?

Granted these aren't big box retail establishments, but there's quite a few small places that don't have a "FU not my problem!" mentality when things go wrong.

Products break, some are lemons, and sometimes things mess up.

I'd bet the retailers that do eat some of the $$$ from returning the cards, will get lifelong customers in return.
 
perhaps you missed the point that these are illegal piracy devices and not some electronic device from a big retail chain store
 
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I don't think you know what you are talking about...

It's the same thing whether it's boot leg whisky from Kentucky. If you make a product, that kills people, or say doesn't work... You probably won't be a successful business person.

Perhaps you missed the "point" that you're/we're/everyone is part of the free market. Bozos who think just because (insert reason here/example: quasi-legal flash carts) they don't need to provide decent service won't be around in the marketplace forever.
 
well i'm sure some unofficial resellers will indeed offer an exchange or whatever, but its more likely for a official reseller to offer it as they will be able to exchange it with MT.
shady business or not, they don't want too many negative reviews online or they will be loosing money, its not like bigger brand's offer warranties that cover bios updates etc pretty much every computer manufacture says they don't cover bios update failures...even if the update is to fix a problem with their product -_-
 
People around here seem to be not understanding that the 1.2 HW flash is what it is. A low level hardware flashing. Many a times things go wrong because of a flaky USB connection. Most likely the USB connection was somehow disrupting in the middle of flashing and hence causing the card to brick.

For other devices, this can usually be fixed by JTAG but for the MT-card, I can't even begin to comprehend how you could fix it.
 
People around here seem to be not understanding that the 1.2 HW flash is what it is. A low level hardware flashing. Many a times things go wrong because of a flaky USB connection. Most likely the USB connection was somehow disrupting in the middle of flashing and hence causing the card to brick.

For other devices, this can usually be fixed by JTAG but for the MT-card, I can't even begin to comprehend how you could fix it.

Original poster here - I believe I mentioned that I used a high quality USB cable, that was used previously in 1.0 to 1.1 upgrade. I'm quite familiar w/the concept of using a working cable (USB/whatever) for any flash process. If your cable is broke you are screwed.

MT Card has an FPGA I believe - I do not think it has any JTAG port. Regardless, thanks for sharing this (useless) JTAG info.

What other people don't seem to realize is that reading the whole post might be an invaluable part of replying... Regardless of whether you can loosely describe a flash process or not :)
 
Please, refer to the MT Card 1.2 post before replying to this post.

This is so you can a) save yourself embarrassment and b) be thoroughly informed that this is a legitimate issue.

There are quite a few folks experiencing this issue. Me thinks that something is broken with the flasher process, not the user.
 
GamingAori: yes agreed, but it's not supposed to be during the upgrade/flash process.

Something is very flaky in regards to the flash - it's supposed to wait 300 secs for the driver to detect?

I've flashed 100's of devices whether it's a router, to bios, to roms for a phone. MT Card's flash process seems extra special in regards to lack of stability.

Is Gateway's flashing process just as flaky?
AFAIK, Gateway's process is safer since the update is on the card itself (if you've recently bought a Gateway card). You can do the update manually if you have an older Gateway Card. The amount of bricks from people properly following flashing/updating procedures with Gateway is low. And if you are a victim of a brick Gateway will repair your 3DS for free providing you haven't modified any of the files or the Gateway itself.
 
Original poster here - I believe I mentioned that I used a high quality USB cable, that was used previously in 1.0 to 1.1 upgrade. I'm quite familiar w/the concept of using a working cable (USB/whatever) for any flash process. If your cable is broke you are screwed.

MT Card has an FPGA I believe - I do not think it has any JTAG port. Regardless, thanks for sharing this (useless) JTAG info.

What other people don't seem to realize is that reading the whole post might be an invaluable part of replying... Regardless of whether you can loosely describe a flash process or not :)

Erm. What now?

USB Port is also part of the entire process. It could be that the USB port is faulty, it has happened to me before.

Then again, it could be a shitty driver that's disrupting the connection.
 
I updated mine as soon as I got it, didn't experience any problems.

For those who haven't flashed yet, I'd recommend connecting the USB to the back of your computer, it draws more power and is less likely to disconnect.
 
I updated mine as soon as I got it, didn't experience any problems.

For those who haven't flashed yet, I'd recommend connecting the USB to the back of your computer, it draws more power and is less likely to disconnect.
That may not be true and is only accurate on a case-by-case basis. I know some manufacturers have a high power USB port (Apple tends to be closest to the power cord) but this isn't universal and probably inapplicable in the situation of flashing this device.
 
That may not be true and is only accurate on a case-by-case basis. I know some manufacturers have a high power USB port (Apple tends to be closest to the power cord) but this isn't universal and probably inapplicable in the situation of flashing this device.


From my experience, most manufacturer's put low-powered ports in the front, higher powered ones in the rear.
 
From my experience, most manufacturer's put low-powered ports in the front, higher powered ones in the rear.
Yes but again my point is that it isn't universal and for the purpose of this low level flashing, I highly doubt it's pulling the full 500mah from the port. If anything, it would be easier for someone to accidentally unplug it, from my experience, when plugged into the back.
 
Modchipfactory has accepted to replace my card.
If you have the same issues just contact your (official) reseller
 
did the brick occurs with the old packagin card or with the new ones ? (or both) ?
 
GamingAori: yes agreed, but it's not supposed to be during the upgrade/flash process.

Something is very flaky in regards to the flash - it's supposed to wait 300 secs for the driver to detect?

I've flashed 100's of devices whether it's a router, to bios, to roms for a phone. MT Card's flash process seems extra special in regards to lack of stability.

Is Gateway's flashing process just as flaky?

The time it takes to "flash" (that is actually a false term, the correct term would be to "program") (flashing means to "erase" whatever there is) a device depends on:
  • The amount of data that has to be sent
  • The clock speed
  • How many lines are sending (or sometimes also receiving data (see serial VS parallel)
  • Parity checks, verification
  • Older devices cannot be "flashed", you must erase them or even unlock them first before you upload your program.
If 100 problems are waiting to happen, the most critical part is the programming, especially if there is no direct way to program that device again (like upgrading your computer's BIOS/firmware without special equipment)


PS. I am not saying you did things wrong. I do not know the procedure you followed. I am just throwing some knowledge.
 

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