Gaming Laptop recharge plug broke

bradzx

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My laptop samsung recharge plug is broke. Now where I can buy it at store? Btw my battery percent is 50. So please hurry before I miss it your post.
 

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My laptop samsung recharge plug is broke. Now where I can buy it at store? Btw my battery percent is 50. So please hurry before I miss it your post.
Is it a normal barrel plug? If so then you can get it in any electronic chip store, just show them the plug that broke, they will know the correct diameter.
 

bradzx

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No on box plug thing. Then somehow it start loose and I look at plug to plug box, there are 2 metal struck in where box plug thing is. I will show u on video in sec.
 

Foxi4

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Okay, let's get one thing clear... A recharging circuit is ended with a few plugs - there is a barrel plug you put into your laptop connected to a wire leading to the charger which usually has a tri-prong proprietary connector to which you connect a power cable ending with a standard power plug. Which one is broken? The one in the recharger? Then you need a new charger. The one on the power plug on either end? You can get a new plug. The one in the laptop? It's a standard female barrel, also replacable.
 

bradzx

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Shit, battery low. Guess I have to use my phone to get here. See you on my phone and check my edit when I get here. Sorry for double post.
 

Foxi4

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Actually it 2. Not 3. I know mostly they do 3. Sometime do have 2. Like PS2 plug. Here you go.
No biggie - you just need a new charger, unless this is the standard twin-pronged plug (like the one in a PS2 or a DVD player or a radio. It looks like it but I'm horrible at judging size unless I hold the thing myself), then you can find prongs like this in any electronic chip store (if you have those where you live) or order it online. Stores like Radioshack carry that kind of stuff.


C7/C8 coupler



The unpolarized coupler is commonly known as a figure-8 or shotgun connector due to the shape of its cross-section. It is also known as a euro-connector in electronic shops. The polarized C7 (C7-PW) is asymmetrical, with one side rounded (neutral) and the other side squared off (live).


This coupler are often used for small cassette recorders, battery/mains operated radios, some full size audio-visual equipment, laptop computer power supplies, video game consoles, and similardouble-insulated appliances. Unpolarised C7 connectors can be inserted into polarized C8 inlets; however, doing so might be a safety risk if the device is designed to expect polarized power.


A C8B inlet type is defined by the standard, for use by dual-voltage appliances; it can hold a C7 connector in either of two positions, allowing the user to select voltage by choosing the position the connector is inserted. ~Wiki
 

Foxi4

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I posted you a reference sheet, it looks like a standard "shotgun" connector. I bet they have those, you just need to buy the female one and solder it to the charger.
 

FAST6191

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So the "brick" side of the power adapter has the socket damaged?

Sure you can fix it but know that it can be very annoying to do so- most of those power bricks are welded together (ultrasonic plastic welding) meaning you get to break them apart (usually with a knife or similar wedged in the line around the middle and tapping it with a hammer) which has a nasty habit of breaking any ferrite blocks used in the transformer side of things.

To this end unless you are up for fixing it the easier route might be to find one of the generic laptop power blocks (and maybe slice the end of the broken power brick and solder that on instead to make sure you have a good fit).
 

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When people break their power cords, I do 2 things. First I look for the power cord model number (usually printed on the transformer/power brick). Then I go on eBay/Google to find listings that match the specs printed on the transformer. I even did this for Subways the other day (power surge fried half their electronics, so I just fished up a list of model numbers and sites with replacements for them).
 

FAST6191

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Yeah never assume maplins/frys/radioshack has a good deal vs the real prices online (if you are in the real world you either do not know better or are desperate which is advantage real world shop either way).

They are made in various manners but usually I see a ferrite core transformer attached to some regulation circuitry- not cheap and nasty wall wart tech but far from proper switch mode loveliness (although that some go switch mode these last couple of years) but this is somewhat irrelevant for you. Some will do it properly and have wires allowing the socket to float (if you can fish it out you just need to attach the new socket on) but others will attach it with solder to the PCB allowing it to break probably as seen here meaning you get to pull apart the case.
As mentioned in the previous post the PSUs are usually not built to be opened. Around the middle will be a line where the halves join and that is what gets welded. Get a knife or a wallpaper scraper or something along those lines (thin and able to take an impact) and set it in the gap before giving it a tap with a hammer*- go all around and you should break the seal allowing you access to the board but as mentioned such supplies will tend to use a ferrite core to do the stepping down of voltage and well it is a great example of a brittle material.

Some also prefer to try a hot knife (as in blowtorch heated) instead or in addition to a hammer. I am not a fan of this but I guess it can work just make sure you do it somewhere well ventilated if you do head down this path.

I will also echo the root around old laptops people might have assumed broken and tossed- most will be say 19V and 3 or 4 amps but do check your broken supply for numbers. The voltage really wants to be the same and the amps want to be the same or better unless you say do not use a battery (the amp rating is arguably for full theoretical power draw plus a bit) but do try to find an equivalent amps supply. If you want to match the end do so but chances are it is two wires inside the cable and you already have a perfect end on your broken supply so slice that off and figure out the polarity ( http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/68/AC_adaptor_polarity.png has a rough overview) before soldering that onto your new supply.
 

FAST6191

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Unless you can fish out the socket part then yeah it is not something I would do without otherwise knowing a bit about electronics repair.

If you mean the find a replacement and solder the old end on the new adapter thing then that is not hard at all once you grasp what is going on.
 

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