I think I killed my switch trying to install the HWFLY chip. What now?

[Stealsfromhobos]

I tried installing the HWFLY chip for my V2 switch and it wouldn't power on. Nothing on the screen and no LEDs on the chip lighting up. I desoldered it all to troubleshoot and the Switch still doesn't power on. Battery was fully charged beforehand. I'm guessing I screwed something up. I'm not a professional but I do have some experience with soldering small (but not this small) components.

Any clue what's going on? At this point I'm willing to accept defeat and have a professional fix the switch and install the chip if possible. Is there a good vendor that can do that? I'm in the US.

I didn't get any pics of the solder job but I've attached pics of how SP1 and SP2 looks right now.

 

[Nagaa]

SP1 & SP2 doesn't prevent the switch from booting, you probably damage your nand / the nand connector on the switch motherboard

 

[Stealsfromhobos]

SP1 & SP2 doesn't prevent the switch from booting, you probably damage your nand / the nand connector on the switch motherboard

I'm no expert but I don't see any obvious damage on the connectors.

 

[CMDreamer]

I'm no expert but I don't see any obvious damage on the connectors.

Assuming from your answer to Nagaa's question, you should get a new Switch. No offense meant ofc.

 

[dehydrated_lemur]

Check around the apu. Maybe you broke a capacitor or a resistor removing the shielding. Possibly damaged a trace somewhere. It's very easy to do when removing the shielding.

 

[binkinator]

Is that solder splash on the sides of the cover rim in the first 3 pictures?

 

[cowboy619]

Is that solder splash on the sides of the cover rim in the first 3 pictures?

Nope those are mounting points for the chip


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DankBreak270]

Is it me or is the nand connecter look wrong I don’t think that’s what the original solder looks like to me all of the left side look disconnected could just be the angle tho

Post automatically merged: Mar 28, 2023

Check the power button if you look on the connector you can short the top 2 together and and should power on

Post automatically merged: Mar 28, 2023

I'm no expert but I don't see any obvious damage on the connectors.

To make sure you are plugging in the nand right

 

[KarimPolska]

Bad pictures. Try to make better HQ pictures from around the APU. Maybe you knocked off something while tearing the metal shield.

 

[Stealsfromhobos]

So here's an update.
I sent it off to be fixed by a repair shop suggested to me. After a long wait here's their response:

Hi. I’ve replaced almost all components on the motherboard and still the same. Each time I replaced the power management ic , it keeps blowing it. It works only for 3-5 sec and then it blows the chip. I’ve had many similar situations in the past and the problem was the APU. It prevents the system against further damage and keeps blowing one of the power management ics. To we did one important test in the past with our console. When we removed the faulty Apu and soldered it to the good motherboard for testing purposes, it kept blowing the same ic which was very interesting. There were no shorts on the motherboard, Apu looked good but it was sending the signal to damage power management ic each time we plug the battery or charger.
I wasted 4 power management ics on your console but there was no other way to check it

Long story short I still have a super dead Switch. At this point I either buy a whole new console or Hail Mary it over to Nintendo support for an out-of-warranty repair/replacement and hope they don't notice the tampering. Has anyone tried that? Not like I have anything to lose at this point.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

So here's an update.
I sent it off to be fixed by a repair shop suggested to me. After a long wait here's their response:

Long story short I still have a super dead Switch. At this point I either buy a whole new console or Hail Mary it over to Nintendo support for an out-of-warranty repair/replacement and hope they don't notice the tampering. Has anyone tried that? Not like I have anything to lose at this point.

I guess the shop should be able to replace your APU and get the console working again, but NAND would need to be rebuilt, and you would lose all data, and the cost for replacing the APU may not be worth it.... Might be cheaper than buying a new console though.