Wires should be soldered flat, so when the case is squeezed back together the lateral force doesn't break off the pads.
There may be enough room though - someone else will clarify.

 

yea too much solder and it looks like the solder cooled while you were working still or not enough heat applied, usually forms weird peaks and non smooth look, sometimes it may look like its attached but isnt by just melting the solder on the wire instead of heating both the pad and wire, kinda looks like lead free solder in a ways, they require more heat and are harder to work with. ever since i converted to lead free alot of joints look so damn noobish. should lay out the wires flat, tape them or glue them. from the looks of it though it looks ok and would work fine leave it alone if it works.

oh also too much wire is exposed least enough for it to short if moved wrong

 

It's certainly not the best install I've seen but then again it's far from the worst. It is to be fair though a poor job. But that doesn't mean it won't work as well as a pro job.
I'd check the strength of your joints by tugging on the wires, if they don't come off then it's probably gonna work alright.
The wires sticking up is not a great thing but you should have enough clearance that it doesn't matter too much. The big concern is that when the wires are pushed over flat that you will stress the wire at the join and it may break.
As others have said insulation is needed to ensure you don't short any of the wires. You can use many things to get the job done, electrical tape can be hard too work with in such small places. given that the joins are a little iffy as to whether they will last you may want to avoid using something like hot glue. My mate is a fan of plasticine for insulation, I'm not advocating it in case it has some board eating properties that I'm unaware of, something like that may be easy to use and easy to remove too though.

I don't advise you de-solder the points though. Either (or both) your equipment or abilities are lacking for the job and you risk removing a solder pad if you do too much more. I hope it is fine as is but if not perhaps get some help before you do any real damage.

Good for you for taking the plunge though, good luck.

 

if you haven't already closed up your system, I would go back and resolder the leads lying flat. additionally, I'd trim off all the excessive bared wire to eliminate the potential for a short-circuit to occur (you really only need about .5mm of wire exposed).

you also used a plastic coated wire (rather than kynar coated) which makes it harder to keep the insulation from melting back and exposing more wire when you solder.

last:
when soldering, you should make sure that you are touching the soldering iron to both the point your soldering to and the wire and then add the solder to it. as the solder melts, stop feeding the solder and then slowly pull the iron back from the point up to help form a nice solder cone which should maintain a shiny look as it cools (rather than a dull look, which results from a bad weld).

 

looks like mine, and mine works.

 

ha ha ha thx for reply I guess I did ugliest job ever! My wiikey is still not here YET! DARN! Thx for everyone's feed back though One thing I learn is Make sure "Wires should be soldered flat."

 

100 times better than mine, and mine works