See below for updates.

IF YOU BREAK YOUR BOOT0 PIN. DO NOT DM ME ASKING FOR HELP. THAT'S IT. YOU BREAK THAT PIN AND YOU CANT FLASH. YOUR CHIP IS STUCK WITH WHATEVER HWFLY PUT ON IT


Pre-requisites:

---

• Raspberry Pi Zero W
  • You may use another flasher if you desire.
• Pinout Diagram
• Modchip Diagram
• FULL_CHIP_STOCK.bin
• Modchip Diagram, find the PA9(TX) and the PA10(RX) pins on your modchip, and do the following:
  • Connect GPIO14(TX) on your Raspberry Pi Zero W to the PA10(RX) pin on your modchip.
  • Connect GPIO15(RX) on your Raspberry Pi Zero W to the PA9(TX) pin on your modchip.

1. Solder a wire to each of the following pinouts on the Raspberry Pi Zero W:
   • 3.3V
   • Ground
   • GPIO 14 (UART TX)
   • GPIO 15 (UART RX)
2. Do the following to prepare the modchip:
   1. Lift pin 44 (also known as BOOT0).
   2. You will need a way to power the chip, so you need to find two 3.3v points. It can be on a MOSFET, but it will differ based on the revision of the modchip.
   3. Connect Ground on your Raspberry Pi Zero W to the Ground pin on your modchip.
   4. Check the Modchip Diagram, find the PA9(TX) and the PA10(RX) pins on your modchip, and do the following:
      • Connect GPIO14(TX) on your Raspberry Pi Zero W to the PA10(RX) pin on your modchip.
      • Connect GPIO15(RX) on your Raspberry Pi Zero W to the PA9(TX) pin on your modchip.
3. Boot your Raspberry Pi Zero W and do the following:
   1. In the terminal, type the following command, and press enter:
      

      sudo nano /boot/config.txt

   2. Add the following line to the end of the file:
      

      dtoverlay=pi3-miniuart-bt

   3. Press CTRL + X to save and exit the editor.
   4. In the terminal, type the following command, and press enter:
      

      sudo nano /boot/cmdline.txt

   5. Remove the following line from the file:
      

      console=serial0,115200

   6. Press CTRL + X to save and exit the editor.
   7. Restart your Raspberry Pi with this command
      

      sudo /sbin/reboot

   8. In the terminal, type the following commands, and press enter after each command:
      
      

      git clone https://github.com/Pheeeeenom/stm32flash.git
      cd stm32flash
      sudo make install

4. Now you will flash the modchip.
   Note: This will remove read protection, and the modchip will wipe itself (that is what we want).
   1. In the terminal, type the following command, and press enter:
      

      stm32flash -k /dev/serial0

   2. Now to flash Spacecraft-NX Version 0.2.0, type the following, and press enter:
      

      stm32flash -v -w ./FULL_CHIP_STOCK.bin /dev/serial0

5. Once you're done flashing your modchip, remove the wiring from the modchip, and restore the 3.3v pin on the modchip to its original position.

Please post pictures of your work here to further the identification of the different board revisions!


UPDATE: So it seems like stitching the spacecraft bootloader and firmware together from the repo causes unstable glitching behaviors. For now, consistent glitching behavior works with this bootload/firmware combo. This is the original file on the OLED variant chip which has 0.2.0 spacecraft. As for glitching, I'll figure it out, give me some time...unless someone else wants to hop in and reverse the differences.

For now, this at least solves the 0.1.0 HWFLY gen 3 issue. More to come.

UPDATE 2: This is only going to work on some HWFLY chips. Older ones use higher protection than the new revisions that seem to use the QFN FPGA.

UPDATE 3: This should fully work on OLED modchips with the QFN FPGA. https://github.com/Pheeeeenom/firmware

 

[PirulazuL]

Guys, can someone explain the difference between mv1-6, mv1-7.1 and mv1-7.2 chips? Its for the core version. Thanks in advance.

I'm in the same boat. I got 2 mv1-7.2, tried to flash one of them through usb but it failed. Now, I flash it using STLink, but it doesn't work.
Don't know if mv1-7.2 are loaded with something making them incompatible with spacecraft-nx or hwfly-nx.

BTW, the process completes and the info gets downloaded into the chip. If I verify it, it passes the check. Also, using the offsets provided in the hwfly-nx github.

Does anyone have a STLink dump of a mv1-7.2?

 

[mathsw]

I learned that there was code on the last page often in the chip on the hwfly lite the code and wrote and locked on page 127 I assumed that on your chip there must be similar code if you compare the bin files to the internal memory of the chip you will see the additional code written in 0x0801FC00 maybe you have it and more written further you will see in red if you have additional code but be careful not to delete this code otherwise the chip will be unusable. but maybe what and corrupt at this level?. there is also a manual reset on the chips.

Hi. My case is about a Hwfly Lite v4.2, in first install when power on console the orange led was blinking forever, after 35 minutes I gave up waiting and decided to update the firmware to hwfly-nx 0.7.2, when i turned on the console the led flashed several colors, then stopped at solid blue and the screen showed nothing. I removed the chip again and updated the firmware to the original 0.31 that Ali's seller gave me, but without the bootloader.bin file. Apparently the chip is with the bootloader of version 0.7.2 hwfly-nx which I updated earlier. Can I leave it like this? Another question is, would you know how to manually reset this hwfly lite 4.2 chip? Thanks in advance.

 

[mathsw]

Where did you hear that you're supposed to have the chip train before flashing the new 0.6.0 release? That's not been my experience, just flash both bootloader (which is needed for the new LED status indicators) & firmware. Connect over USB serial with putty to whichever COM port it is listed under Device Manager, USB Devices. In Putty type V for version to make sure the chip is connected. Then E to erase the payload on boot0, followed by P to program the new payload to boot0, finally T to train the chip which is much faster with this new release.
Hopefully the new LED indicators can help you to tell where to look to fix your issue.

Novice question: This procedure with PUTTY is with the chip disconnected from console? Or does it necessarily have to be connected to the console board? Sorry, this payload, boot0, all confuse to me, because I don't know if the terms refers to the chip or the console. I just wanted to know how to reset Hwfly Lite 4.2 to retrain, because I thought it was enough to update the firmware and it would be automatically reset. PS: I have a Lite console.

 

[fragged]

Novice question: This procedure with PUTTY is with the chip disconnected from console? Or does it necessarily have to be connected to the console board? Sorry, this payload, boot0, all confuse to me, because I don't know if the terms refers to the chip or the console. I just wanted to know how to reset Hwfly Lite 4.2 to retrain, because I thought it was enough to update the firmware and it would be automatically reset. PS: I have a Lite console.

Most commands you'd be running with Putty over USB serial to the chip would require that the chip be installed & working correctly along with having the console turned on

 

[mathsw]

Most commands you'd be running with Putty over USB serial to the chip would require that the chip be installed & working correctly along with having the console turned on

Right, thanks for reply.

 

[pedroka26]

Owner of a second-hand Lite w/ Xecuter SX lite but it came without the usb cable to reflash the chip for Spacecrafter-NX. any of the usb adapters selling on aliexpress for those HWFLY chips work?

 

[rkayd]

Hello fellow masters of the universe,

I updated my V6 to a new firmware (dumb) and now I the OLED switch boots directly to OFW. Unfortunately, the chip is no longer in DFU mode and is no longer detectable on my PC so I can't flash it back. I have this programmer (in pic) but I'm not sure how to hook it up to the new V6 chip. I have no idea what pins are Rx and Tx.

Can anyone help me out by being an absolute boss and find the pinout for these pins so I can program it? Thx

 

[notSoMadHatter]

I tried to update my V5 switch with firmware 0.7.2, then when the switch was one it would only go into OFW during which the hwfly LED was fully white. The usb breakout ribbon cable must have microfractures because it doesn't work properly so I was thinking of using my j link or stlink to update the firmware.

this is the chip

And I was planning to use this pinout

Was there a general consensus on which firmware should work for this? Is that sthetix video even relevant for flashing the older v5 clone ?

If so, can anyone point me in the right direction for the firmware file ?

 

[realtimesave]

I updated the FW on two that didn't work and guess what, they still didn't work. sent em back to China and they got lost in the mail.

 

[notSoMadHatter]

I updated the FW on two that didn't work and guess what, they still didn't work. sent em back to China and they got lost in the mail.

I ended up soldering to the SWI bus and programming the stock firmware via stlink and it worked! then i got confident and tried to reinstall 7.2 with the stlink and proceeded to break everything. hello darkness my old friend. HWfly picofly rp2040 for me so i don't have to redo the flex ribbon cable.

 

[realtimesave]

I ended up soldering to the SWI bus and programming the stock firmware via stlink and it worked! then i got confident and tried to reinstall 7.2 with the stlink and proceeded to break everything. hello darkness my old friend. HWfly picofly rp2040 for me so i don't have to redo the flex ribbon cable.

I ended up buying more chips. At least Nintendo isn't preventing me from getting chips any more since the whole SX fiasco and DHL lol. I still see in my aliexpress where I got my $120 back haha.

 

[notSoMadHatter]

I ended up buying more chips. At least Nintendo isn't preventing me from getting chips any more since the whole SX fiasco and DHL lol. I still see in my aliexpress where I got my $120 back haha.

how long was it between buying them and it breaking? I just assumed if it's more than a couple of months then aliexpress won't care

 

[White_Raven_X]

I updated the FW on two that didn't work and guess what, they still didn't work. sent em back to China and they got lost in the mail.

NEVER send anything back to China.... Read this:

"Prohibited items importing into china.
items marked "Made in ROC" (Republic of China). The label "Made in Taiwan" is acceptable."

https://www.canadapost.ca/tools/pg/manual/PGIntDestDetails-e.asp?table=tblCountry&txtLetter=CN


I have always received a refund even though I never return anything to China. I quote the above and they will give me my money back every time. China will purposely destroy packages returned from anywhere around the world.