Hardware How different physically are the new and old models of Switch?

CheatJoker008

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From what I can tell from iFixit's teardowns of the OG(HAC-001) and the "new"(HAC-001(-01))Switch, the only hardware difference of any importance between these two models are their motherboards.
The thing is, I have a HAC-001 Switch, which was modified to have the digitizer and display fused together to prevent dust from getting inside. BTW, this mod also improves the brightness and visibility of the screen especially under sunlight, but I digress.
So If I want the extra battery life of HAC-001(-01) without sacrificing or having to re-do my modification, I can just replace the motherboard of my current OG Switch with that from a HAC-001(-01) right? Or did I miss something and the parts are actually not interchangable?
 

ZachyCatGames

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The board should be the only difference, everything else is identical to later HAC-001 units (besides the text on the backplate).
If you swap the board + emmc it should work fine.
 

CheatJoker008

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The board should be the only difference, everything else is identical to later HAC-001 units (besides the text on the backplate).
If you swap the board + emmc it should work fine.
Thanks for the reply man, but just to be perfectly sure, do I keep my original emmc or do I use the new one on the new Switch?
 

Jayro

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Thanks for the reply man, but just to be perfectly sure, do I keep my original emmc or do I use the new one on the new Switch?
You have to keep the same one with the board, as the eMMC is "married" to the motherboard. Use any other eMMC and you risk a brick.
 

CheatJoker008

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I'm curious how did you fuse the digitized to the lcd
The thing is, I don't know because I actualy did not mod my Switch by myself. I shipped my Switch to a video game store in China which also provides modding services, but the huge hassle of shipping electronics back and forth to China is also why I can't/don't want to just send another Switch for modding.
Here's a link to the video game store's page if you're interested.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

You have to keep the same one with the board, as the eMMC is "married" to the motherboard. Use any other eMMC and you risk a brick.
Got it. Thanks everyone, gonna change the motherboards as soon as I find myself with the free time to do it.
 
Last edited by CheatJoker008,

izy

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saying that it may be worth not changing the montherboards as the new switches display is better.
someone did a test of both displays
the old switch runs about 290 nits peak brightness and 7200k whitebalance
the new switch runs 320 nits peak brightness and 6700k whitebalance

so the newer switch has brighter more colour accurate display
 

Agilato

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s o the newer switch has brighter more color accurate display

Not Fully true i had 4 new switches on repair... all of them with different displays and colors, some really good some worst than original we have on v1 so it's really depends where console was assembled... Do not expect to get better scree think of it as a bonus.

Main difference is slightly tweaked Nvidia Tegra SoC with more optimized power consumption.
It has some changes in power boost converter MAX chip, there is one bigger chip left instead of 2 small.
Rest components are pretty much the same.

News about that Mariko architecture will be hardmodable soon by Xecuter chip.
 

ZachyCatGames

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saying that it may be worth not changing the montherboards as the new switches display is better.
someone did a test of both displays
the old switch runs about 290 nits peak brightness and 7200k whitebalance
the new switch runs 320 nits peak brightness and 6700k whitebalance

so the newer switch has brighter more colour accurate display
Wrong. How high quality the screen is (mostly) completely random. There’s different manufacturers with varying qualities and Nintys calibration is funky.
Like my Mariko unit has the worst display of any Switch I currently own, and my launch day unit has the best screen (JDI masterrace ;))
 
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izy

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Not Fully true i had 4 new switches on repair... all of them with different displays and colors, some really good some worst than original we have on v1 so it's really depends where console was assembled... Do not expect to get better scree think of it as a bonus.

Main difference is slightly tweaked Nvidia Tegra SoC with more optimized power consumption.
It has some changes in power boost converter MAX chip, there is one bigger chip left instead of 2 small.
Rest components are pretty much the same.

News about that Mariko architecture will be hardmodable soon by Xecuter chip.

Wrong. How high quality the screen is (mostly) completely random. There’s different manufacturers with varying qualities and Nintys calibration is funky.
Like my Mariko unit has the worst display of any Switch I currently own, and my launch day unit has the best screen (JDI masterrace ;))


Honestly searched this up because when we had the 3ds tn ips debacle it gave better results.like a dedicated thread to it.

Now it's like sifting through reddit posts.
Yeah jdi did the initial batch then it went to auto innolux.

I've yet to see a V2 switch though reported with a worse lcd tho and like a I said it's slightly warmer and its brighter.

The lack of actual dedicated comparison threads doesnt help.
Some even if the jdi one is good and people enjoy the really clear blues more noticeable on whites. Like mentioned before that isnt accurate is really tuned high.

I will admit I have seen extreme tint issues with the mariko lights they look so off by a major amount

Edit* btw this merged displaybdervoce you bought actually is the case that they dont fuse it themselves. Theybreplaxe your digitizer and lcd with another pre fused one.

Aliexpress actually sell this assembly for the same price the service costs and that includes not shipping out your console
 
Last edited by izy,

ZachyCatGames

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Honestly searched this up because when we had the 3ds tn ips debacle it gave better results.like a dedicated thread to it.

Now it's like sifting through reddit posts.
Yeah jdi did the initial batch then it went to auto innolux.

I've yet to see a V2 switch though reported with a worse lcd tho and like a I said it's slightly warmer and its brighter.

The lack of actual dedicated comparison threads doesnt help.
Some even if the jdi one is good and people enjoy the really clear blues more noticeable on whites. Like mentioned before that isnt accurate is really tuned high.

I will admit I have seen extreme tint issues with the mariko lights they look so off by a major amount

Edit* btw this merged displaybdervoce you bought actually is the case that they dont fuse it themselves. Theybreplaxe your digitizer and lcd with another pre fused one.

Aliexpress actually sell this assembly for the same price the service costs and that includes not shipping out your console
Here’s a little comparison of all the LCD types I know exist on Switch I guess:
JDI (ltps): ltps variant of the JDI displays, they’re considered to be the highest quality screen you can possibly get on a Switch and they have a very nice color temp (warm, but not to the point where everything is orange), unfortunately they’re not very common. They were used in production from 2016 to 2017.
JDI (a-si): a-si variant of the JDI displays. They’re the same as the other one but they use a-si instead of ltps.
Innolux rev1 (a-si): Innolux screens that were used at launch, they’re generally considered to be the lowest quality screens, their color temps are far warmer than other LCDs and a red/yellow tint isn’t uncommon. Used in production from 2016 to 2017
Innolux rev2 (a-si): Same as rev1 but slightly higher quality maybe(?) Used in production from 2017 to now
AUO rev1 (a-si): I’ve never seen one of these myself, but I’ve been told they’re better than Innolux, but worse than JDI. Used in production from ? to ?.
AUO rev2 (a-si): I’ve also never seen one of these, they’re probably basically the same a rev1. Used in production from ? to now.

My main unit has a ltps JDI screen ;)
My other Erista has a rev1 Innolux
And my Mariko (likely) has a rev2 Innolux
 
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The Real Jdbye

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I'm curious how did you fuse the digitized to the lcd
Probably by gluing them together using LOCA (liquid optically clear adhesive)
Dust should not be able to get in anyway, because there is glue all around the bezel, but I can see other reasons why you might want to glue the screen itself, decreasing the gap between the LCD and touch digitizer has some benefits as the OP mentioned, and it looks more sleek and modern.
In addition to that, you might need to mod the front of the case to get the screen and digitizer to touch.
 
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izy

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Probably by gluing them together using LOCA (liquid optically clear adhesive)
Dust should not be able to get in anyway, because there is glue all around the bezel, but I can see other reasons why you might want to glue the screen itself, decreasing the gap between the LCD and touch digitizer has some benefits as the OP mentioned, and it looks more sleek and modern.
In addition to that, you might need to mod the front of the case to get the screen and digitizer to touch.

Yeah from what I can see they basically just glue the directly to the digitizer probably with local.

No the only thing stopping that is the sponge dust filter.

The real downside is this, they most likely fitted the premade one instead of his stock lcd then kept original.

The problem with this is I looked again and every premade kit. Uses an innolux display.

On the upside you can also buy the jdi displays of aliexpress they really basic and have the lp serial
 

The Real Jdbye

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Yeah from what I can see they basically just glue the directly to the digitizer probably with local.

No the only thing stopping that is the sponge dust filter.

The real downside is this, they most likely fitted the premade one instead of his stock lcd then kept original.

The problem with this is I looked again and every premade kit. Uses an innolux display.

On the upside you can also buy the jdi displays of aliexpress they really basic and have the lp serial
Are those displays worse? They're still IPS I hope?
 

The Real Jdbye

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Innolux displays are the lowest quality displays you can get on Switch (and JDI ltps displays are the best). They’re also the most common.
They’re still IPS, yeah.
I didn't know they came with different screens out of the box. Can I tell which one I have without disassembling it? It was purchased a couple weeks after launch.
 

ZachyCatGames

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I didn't know they came with different screens out of the box. Can I tell which one I have without disassembling it? It was purchased a couple weeks after launch.
CTCaer made a payload awhile back that displays the vendor ID https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/522146032654614540/609824254464098314/iplctc_disp_id.bin

`[10] 96 [09]` is a-si JDI
`[10] 81 [26]` is ltps JDI
`[20] 93 [0F]` is rev1 Innolux
If you bought it near launch you likely have one of those.
 
Last edited by ZachyCatGames,

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