Few questions with building a computer

Discussion in 'Computer Games and General Discussion' started by Zetta_x, Nov 14, 2010.

Nov 14, 2010
  1. Zetta_x
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    Member Zetta_x The Insane Statistician

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    Black Friday is coming up and I am going to snag a bunch of deals for computer parts to build a computer and had a few questions.

    1) A motherboard question: Can you use unsupported processors? If yes, with using them, is there no guarantee that you can get full functionality out of it? Or will it just not work at all?

    2) When deciding a graphics card are there any more things I should worry about other than correct port, power consumption, and making sure it fits in the case?

    3) How do I calculate power consumption so I know what type of power supply to get?

    Thanks in advance,
    Z
     
  2. exangel

    Member exangel executioner angel

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    1) What exactly do you mean by unsupported? Do you mean OEM?
    2) If you want to "game" there is an awful lot more you should worry about aside from hardware compatibility. Assuming that you do, tell me more about your plans, and I'll offer specific advice.
    3) Power consumption for a system is not an exact science, choosing a good power supply for your build is going to be based on the amount of allowance you intend to provide for having multiple devices or upgrades to more consumptive devices in the future. Certain components that are primarily set up as the preference of the user will affect power consumption as much or more than just the components that produce all the computing, and those components would be the heatsink/fan on the CPU, any number of cooling fans, and any number of power drawing USB devices once the system is set up..
     
  3. myuusmeow

    Member myuusmeow GBAtemp Advanced Maniac

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    1. What do you mean? You mean like using an older AMD motherboard with a newer 6 core processor? There's no guarantee it would work at all. It might, but it probably won't. Check the manufacturer's compatibility lists. Or do you mean like using a LGA1366 CPU in a LGA1156 board? That won't work either.

    2. You can pretty much ignore correct port, 99% of motherboards will have at least one PCI-e 2.0 x16 slot. Power consumption is important, size is important. Balancing out the power is something you need to consider. Don't get a super powerful CPU and a weak graphics card or vice versa. Heat is a concern. If you don't get a card that exhausts outside the case, you will need to make sure your case can pump out the hot air.

    3. Ask on the power supply forums at overclock.net . Most people will tell you to buy something way over what you need. A Corsair, Antec, Cooler Master, or Seasonic (no particular order) PSU at 550W or so will pretty much be more than enough for any single graphics card system. Most PSUs will have the needed PCI-e power plugs for graphics card, and if they don't your graphics card should have adapters.


    Make sure everything is compatible. AM3 CPU on an AM3 motherboard. DDR3 memory in a DDR3 motherboard, etc.
     
  4. Zetta_x
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    Member Zetta_x The Insane Statistician

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    Thanks for the quick reply!

    I was looking up motherboards on Newegg (for example http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...82E16813128456) and under details it says "Supported CPU: ______". So I was wondering if I didn't get the i7 in this case, would I run into problems.

    Yeah, this is meant for a gaming build and possibly dual monitoring it.

    If I were to get a 600+ power supply, will it use more power if it doesn't use all of its allowanced watts?
     
  5. murkurie

    Member murkurie GBAtemp Fan

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    Yea, if you got a "unsupported one, it wouldn't fit, that list shows what fits in the board. just make sure it the proc uses the proper socket, like some i7's use a 1366 and some use a 1156.

    If you get a PSU bigger then you need, then it will only draw what your using, but if you use more then it can, the system you probably crash.
     
  6. exangel

    Member exangel executioner angel

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    The item link you provided didn't return a product when I clicked it, but you have to get a motherboard with the same CPU socket type as the CPU you're going to get. There's no assurance of compatibility otherwise, I'm guessing that was an erroneous product description, which is why the link is dead now (at least at the time of my post).

    I pretty much agree with myuusmeow on the points about PSU, every enthusiast will try to tell you to get more than you'll use, and if you do that then you may not wind up investing the cash in a good brand of PSU. I've had good experience with Antec PSU's.. though I do run with a 750w in my tower because I had planned to use more drives than I wound up with in addition to not ever wanting to have to replace it in the case I have, and wanting the ability to power a Crossfire (double video card) setup if I wanted in the future. All of which are enthusiast concerns. Don't spend extra on a 750w (or higher..) if you this is your first "from scratch" custom build.

    From what I understand/been told, PSU's wattage draw regardless of internal device usage. The PSU's job is to have that power continuously available. If you're running a 600w that's what its going to pull from your outlet when it is on.


    edit: I forgot to discuss specific.. information I wanted to mention to help you select a video card. There's four very important criteria in selecting a video card for 3d gaming, aside from brand and the price range. But I don't wanna copypasta all I said on the Ask GBAtemp question about budget graphics. I was actually fully awake when I wrote that so the details are all there if you want more.
    I don't know what budget you're trying for, or what generation of games you'll be trying to play, but the choice on which card to get will depend heavily on your budget and your performance goals. If you're building a budget rig primarily for gaming, then it's likely that it will be worth allowing the video card to be the most expensive component. If you want to do moderately recent 3D games at good* framerates in 1920x1080 or 1650x1080 res, then you will have to spend over a hundred bucks.
    I'm passing out now, awake over 24 hrs straight is rough with no caffiene supply
     
  7. meornot0

    Member meornot0 GBAtemp Regular

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  8. myuusmeow

    Member myuusmeow GBAtemp Advanced Maniac

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    Link is also dead for me.

    I agree with everything but that last statement. A 600W PSU thats 80% efficient (that is what the 80% Gold/Silver/Bronze ratings mean) powering components that only need say 400W of power will draw 400/.8 = 500W from the wall with the extra 100W wasted as heat.

    Don't cheap out on the PSU. A bad PSU can destroy your entire system (blows up, supplies too much or too little voltage, etc). I've had a PSU blow up on me. Don't let it happen to you. [​IMG]

    Basically checklist:
    • CPU is the same socket as motherboard (this is important, for example an AM2+ motherboard will take some AM3 CPUs (dependent on BIOS updates from manufacturer), but an AM3 CPU will NOT take an AM2+ CPU)
    • CPU cooler that is the same socket as the motherboard (unless you are okay with the stock ones, which are usually hot and loud, hot=bad)
    • Thermal paste. MX-2 or MX-3 for under $10. Everyone will reccomend Arctic Silver 5 (aka AS5) but it makes your CPU run about 3C higher than other pastes
    • RAM is the type the motherboard takes, also if its an Intel build using a 1366 mobo, triple channel RAM (this means instead of getting say 2 2GB sticks, you get 3 2GB sticks)
    • PSU is a good brand and enough to power your system, 550W is more than enough for a single GPU system, 750W for dual
    • Graphics cards. If you get 2 or more make sure you get a SLI (if Nvidia cards) or CrossfireX (if AMD/ATI cards). Make sure they balance well with the rest of the system. Don't SLI on a weak processor or if you're running a not super high resolution
    • Hard drive and DVD drives. Just make sure they are SATA and you get SATA cables if you need them. Any modern PSU will have SATA power cables
    Be ready for DOA (dead on arrival) hardware. It happens. This is why its important to buy from good brands that will replace it for you.
     
  9. Fishaman P

    Member Fishaman P Speedrunner

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  10. Zetta_x
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    Member Zetta_x The Insane Statistician

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    Sweet!

    Thanks for all the advice! My cousin came over today to replace his motherboard and CPU. Unfortunately the new motherboard didn't fit in his tower so we got a new one of those. Spent a couple hours learning how to change up a mother board and making sure how to connect everything.

    Moment of truth, I turned it on and it couldn't find the harddrive. Forgot to plug in its power =P
    Second moment of truth, it randomly shut off. CPU got way to hot (We had to modify the giant metal thing on the CPU to fit into the new tower). Adjusted that.

    It started running then BSOD. Remembered that I had to repair windows. Didn't have a start up disk. So I finally ran the start up disk and everything worked fine after that except it was running pretty slow...

    Interesting day!
     
  11. Urza

    Member Urza hi

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    Fyi, "Black Friday" has been pretty awful the last three years.

    I wouldn't get too set on great deals, lest you end up with nothing at all.
     
  12. Originality

    Member Originality Chibi-neko

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    I'm a little worried by the line "had to modify the giant metal thing on the CPU to fit into the new tower". The metal thing is supposed to be the HSF (heatsink fan), which is supposed to come with a fan as well as a heatsink. If it doesn't fit (normally by either being screwed into a backplate on the motherboard or sometimes using push-clamps to stay there), then it can't do its job of taking heat away from the CPU. Also if you had to adjust it (namely take it out and put it back in), you'll probably have ruined the thermal paste application (you want a very thin layer without any flaws, bubbles or inconsistencies in order to provide optimal heat transfer).

    Reasons why a system can run slow: Slow processor (possibly due to throttling from high temperatures - or just badly configured power options in Windows), slow RAM (only happens really if the RAM hasn't been put into dual/tripple channel configuration), slow HDD (depends how old it is really), full HDD (the more data on the drive, the slower it gets), or too much stuff Windows is trying to load on bootup (background processes, random update processes, or even random programs like music management and antivirus programs, all slowing down bootup). It could also be the data cable for the HDD that's not in properly, but that usually results in Windows not loading.
     

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