Hacking Chiip Opensource Modchip

[shtonkalot]

i would ALWAYS use the PI version

its suited for ROhS (like the wii)

Care to explain how that makes any sense?
Just because the IC is ROHS compliant how would that affect it's use with any device?
Do you know what ROHS compliance is?
Do you know some secret that eludes others?

You are suggesting people get advice from you so I hope you can explain. I'm sorry to say that it just sounds nutty to me to think ROHS compliant parts will work better with the Wii.

Please explain..?

 

[kai445]

i would ALWAYS use the PI version

its suited for ROhS (like the wii)Care to explain how that makes any sense?
Just because the IC is ROHS compliant how would that affect it's use with any device?
Do you know what ROHS compliance is?
Do you know some secret that eludes others?

You are suggesting people get advice from you so I hope you can explain. I'm sorry to say that it just sounds nutty to me to think ROHS compliant parts will work better with the Wii.

Please explain..?

Theres nothing wrong with him wanting to use RoHS compliant parts. Granted, theres nothing that makes an RoHS part "better" or "worse" for use with the Wii ... and you knew that already ... but if he wants to spend a little more then thats his business.

And if he doesnt want to use leaded solder, fine, there are lead-free solder alloys available (SnAgCu, among others) that have reliability data that is on par with PbSn.

 

[hazamatic]

Well another difference between the PI and PU version is that PI is 16Kb while PU 8Kb (according to futurlec). 16kB of what, I'm not sure. I'm assuming program(firmware) size, or maybe RAM, or maybe combined?

Either way I don't think we need more than 8kB for the chiip, as the author himself recommends the PU version.


And I didn't get my parts on Friday as I hoped....maybe Monday.

 

[badzoo]

i would ALWAYS use the PI version

its suited for ROhS (like the wii)

Actually, according to Atmel docs PU version is Pb-free, RoHS-compliant, Greenpeace-friendly and whatnot.

 

[blunty]

Any other recommended sources in the US besides Jameco and Digikey? I was planning on getting the parts from Futurelec but decided against after reading these comments on Reseller Ratings. Sounds like they are based in the land down under.

 

[anitabill]

Any other recommended sources in the US besides Jameco and Digikey?  I was planning on getting the parts from Futurelec but decided against after reading these comments on Reseller Ratings.  Sounds like they are based in the land down under.

Thanks blunty

Based on that feedback i cancelled my order with Futurlec. I just hope i cancelled in time.

 

[Smack]

Any other recommended sources in the US besides Jameco and Digikey? I was planning on getting the parts from Futurelec but decided against after reading these comments on Reseller Ratings. Sounds like they are based in the land down under.

Futurlec has a pretty bad wrap on that site. I ordered from these guys on the 27th and it says it was placed in the mail on the 1st. This is shipping to Vancouver, BC and it lists the carrier as USPS so it is coming from the USA somewhere. I will let you guys know how long it takes to get here and if everything is in order once it arrives. So far so good.

 

[Takrin]

heres my SP12 programmer + ATMEGA8-16PI.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/Red...ip/DSC00310.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/Red...ip/DSC00311.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/Red...ip/DSC00312.jpg

seems to work fine but i had hell of a time wondering why i kept getting errors on my programmer. tried using TwinAVR as chiip site said to try for windows and gave me hell. error after error, unsodered, tested with multimeter, multiple chips still no go, finally when i was about to dig out my old linux crap pc i found a windows compiled avrdude. anyhow dont use twinavr and try this pretty easy to use just click on bat files already created
http://www.sharebigfile.com/file/98885/ChiipWin32-zip.html

originally found on
http://www.gamefreax-forum.de/hardware-nin...re-modchip.html


need to etch it on a copper board and try making it prettier, maybe a enclosure too

 

[000orx]

Takrin did you use the 3.3v or 5v? I have installed my chiip today but it ain't working

I used the same IC as you and the 3.3v, flashed with chiipwin32 (successfully, supposedly).
My original wiisports loads but my zelda backup doesn't. Trying different media now but I thought the current code didn't let original games load?

 

[Takrin]

i run mine also at 3.3v, did you try the other beta version from the one your using?

yea current version shouldnt let your originals run, well wiisport at least shouldnt load, did you also install a LED? if its blinking something wrong

 

[000orx]

Well after checking the wiring for about the tenth time I found that a red and orange wire needed to be swapped around connecting to the IC. Glad I found that one

all working fine now, except of course my originals.

 

[nloding]

I ordered from Futurlec and I'm not too satisfied. They haven't given me a tracking number. I'm not terribly worried about it, as it was only an $11 order, but I'm not gonna order from them again, probably.

I'm going to order parts for a Wiip and some parts for a PIC programmer for the WiiFree hack ... prolly gonna use Jameco or Digikey.

 

[_zZz_]

Well after checking the wiring for about the tenth time I found that a red and orange wire needed to be swapped around connecting to the IC. Glad I found that one

all working fine now, except of course my originals.



you can try this:

QUOTEOh, I just see I received a mail from someone who has another temporary workaround for this problem: By setting the low fuse byte to 0xE1 Chiip will take about 30 seconds until it has finished patching. If you insert an original disc within that time it will run he says.

 

[fiver]

I am doing a chiip implementation using the DB9 external connector.

Today I built the chiip, built the programmer, built the module, and programmed the chiip. The programmer took a long time for me to make. I'm kinda wiped out so I'm not going to crack open the Wii until I get some sleep because I don't want to screw it up.

Hopefully the new version will be released tommorow along with the source code!

 

[hazamatic]

I received my order from futurlec today (ordered on the 27/02, received 05/03). I didn't have any bad experience with them at all. They emailed two days after i placed my order saying they had shipped it.

The package came shipped from Thailand, everything inside was well packaged and labelled.

The capacitor I was going to put on the chip itself (0.1uF) turned out to be very big (the connectors are too far apart). I'll head down to dick smith or something tomorrow and grab a smaller capacitor. Apart from that everything else looks fine.

 

[Takrin]

bend the pins on it, what i did with my metallized polyester.

 

[hazamatic]

Yeah I was gonna do that but I couldn't find any damn wire in the house. I was sure I had some....I looked everywhere, just cannot find any lol.

I just remembered I have to go a party tomorrow night too...I might not have time until Wednesday

 

[nloding]

WiiFree just released their v1.2, which full supports original discs and added GC backups and originals to their list of supported items. Hopefully Chiip will have all that he says it will on the News page.

I'm still disappointed with Futurlec ... it shouldn't have taken them almost 4 days to ship my items, and it should have already been here by now. If your timeline is correct, then my parts should have arrived Friday. I'm hoping they'll show up today/tomorrow.

 

[Hooya]

I don't think WiiFree 1.2 supports GC backups yet.

 

[ssj4android]

This all looks pretty confusing, not sure if I even want to try it, especially as I haven't even soldered anything before. Oh well, might as well learn sometime. What kind of wire should I buy for this? And what all should I buy if I don't care about the LED?