Hacking Chiip Opensource Modchip

[nloding]

My parts are due in the mail tomorrow (I hope they arrive in time for the weekend) and I'll immediately start on it. I'm willing to try the beta 2 code even though it's been known to not work with originals. We'll see what happens.

 

[Stripey_Horse]

i dont see NOT booting originals a problem for long with the wiip

 

[Rake]

Mmm JayCar.. electrical candystore

I might just wait a little while before I decide on what I get, but when I do I imagine I'll be installing numerous. This is certainly tempting though, especially when I could have a effective modchip tomorrow from a store 5 mins away for pocket change

 

[nexx]

Just found out i travel pretty close to rapid electronics on my way to uni so im going to go pick up the parts tomorrow. Under £10 for enough parts to make 3 isnt a bad deal...

And looks good joe dodgy but any chance of seeing the inside? The pictures on the official website aint that great.

 

[joedodgy]

And looks good joe dodgy but any chance of seeing the inside?  The pictures on the official website aint that great.

here is the inside of the shell -



its a first attempt

- i have enough bits for a few more programmers...and i think i know what I would change on the next one

 

[nexx]

Thanks a lot for that picture, much easier to see stuff than on the official page.

 

[hazamatic]

Jaycar is a bit more expensive than it need be (but probably the fastest option if you live near by).

Like I said in the previous post, I ordered all my parts from www.futurlec.com. They ship locally to AUS and to the US (and some other places).

I even got the 3.3V version of the chip (ATMEGA8L-8PI), which the chiip author recommends. It was only $4.50 US.

All the parts together worked out to be ~$11 US, including shipping ($4 shipping).

I should be getting it today or tomorrow (I hope).

 

[hazamatic]

The chiip site now recommends ATMEGA8L-8PU (instead of 8PI), which is even cheaper (2.60 US).

 

[anitabill]

Thanks For the pic joedodgy. Very helpful...But I'm not seeing the electrolytic capacitor (C1) in the diagram. Is that optional?

hazamatic

Can you provide a parts list from the site you ordered from? I was thinking of ordering tonight but i'm not exactly sure what to search for.


Thanks
Bill

 

[bobrules]

Looks unsafe, better off buying a comercial one.

 

[hazamatic]

Qty ItemNumber Unit Price Total Price
----------------------------------------------------------
1 ATMEGA8L-8PI ATMega8 28-Pin 8MHz 16kb 8-bit Microcontroller
4.500 4.5
1 DSUBPCSM25 D-Sub 25 Cont. Male PC Straight Conn.
0.800 0.8
1 DSUBCH25 D-Sub 25 Pin Connector Hood
0.450 0.45
2 R220RMF 220ohm 1/4W 1% Metal Film Resistor
0.200 0.4
1 C047U25E 47uF 25V Radial Electrolytic Capacitor
0.080 0.08
2 ICS28N 28 Pin IC Socket - Narrow
0.130 0.26
1 C100UM 0.1uF 100V Mylar Capacitors
0.120 0.12
2 LED3R Red 3mm Round LED 0.080
0.16
1 R120RMF 120ohm 1/4W 1% Metal Film Resistor
0.200 0.2
----------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total 6.97
Postage 4.00
Total 10.97


That's my order lisit from the futurlec site. I got some extra resistors and an extra LED just in case. I should have probably ordered a second chip as well.

 

[bobrules]

This is too technical for my understanding.

 

[anitabill]

Qty  ItemNumber Unit Price Total Price
----------------------------------------------------------
1    ATMEGA8L-8PI    ATMega8 28-Pin 8MHz 16kb 8-bit Microcontroller      Â
            4.500     4.5
1    DSUBPCSM25    D-Sub 25 Cont. Male PC Straight Conn.            Â
      0.800     0.8
1    DSUBCH25    D-Sub 25 Pin Connector Hood                  Â
0.450Â Â Â Â Â 0.45
2    R220RMF    220ohm 1/4W 1% Metal Film Resistor               Â
   0.200     0.4
1    C047U25E    47uF 25V Radial Electrolytic Capacitor            Â
      0.080     0.08
2    ICS28N    28 Pin IC Socket - Narrow                  Â
0.130Â Â Â Â Â 0.26
1    C100UM    0.1uF 100V Mylar Capacitors                  Â
0.120Â Â Â Â Â 0.12
2Â Â Â Â LED3RÂ Â Â Â Red 3mm Round LEDÂ Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â 0.080Â Â Â
 0.16
1    R120RMF    120ohm 1/4W 1% Metal Film Resistor               Â
   0.200     0.2
----------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total              6.97
Postage             4.00
Total                    10.97


That's my order lisit from the futurlec site. I got some extra resistors and an extra LED just in case. I should have probably ordered a second chip as well.

Thanks a ton.

I'm ordering tonight...Please keep us posted on your results.

 

[joedodgy]

Thanks For the pic joedodgy. Very helpful...But I'm not seeing the electrolytic capacitor (C1) in the diagram. Is that optional?

yeah, the 0.1uF / 100nF elec-cap on the programmer is optional (i think that is what is missing from memory). it only helps 'smooth' out the power to the chip.. i just didn't have it around at the time.. next version will have it in there - just for sake on completeness..

 

[shtonkalot]

Jaycar is a bit more expensive than it need be (but probably the fastest option if you live near by).

Like I said in the previous post, I ordered all my parts from www.futurlec.com. They ship locally to AUS and to the US (and some other places).

I even got the 3.3V version of the chip (ATMEGA8L-8PI), which the chiip author recommends. It was only $4.50 US.

All the parts together worked out to be ~$11 US, including shipping ($4 shipping).

I should be getting it today or tomorrow (I hope).

I went to Jaycar today but opted to not buy the ICs there. $20 each was just too much.

Thanks for the info on futurlec.com. I just ordered 2 ICs from there.

 

[Stripey_Horse]

i would ALWAYS use the PI version

its suited for ROhS (like the wii)

and for those interested. i would buy them online. u can get the 8p 8 version damm cheap..

joedodgy - watch out for my tut soon. i took ur ideas on board and spent all day at work today going over it and looking at different ideas..

i used the double ended d25 case , fits in my zif 28pin socket perfect. very quick and easy to program.
i also brought a dremel like tool to make it easy. and some pref board.. IF anyone is interested. my next big project that im working on is a xmas light controller (512 channels, custom made solid state 8amp relays , all with jaycar part numbers). email me.. [email protected]

a 28pin ziff socket is cheap when u work there. (for my programmer)

IF u are unsure or dont have a credit card etc. Jaycar is a place u can visit and get EVERYTHING U NEED for this mod in 10 mins..
(u wont get much change from a $50 but)

U are all more then welcome to email me with questions etc. I can only provide basic advice.. eg. i did it this way , buy this cat no from jaycar. thats all..

[email protected] , please put chiip advice in the subject , or ill just delete them

 

[anitabill]

i would ALWAYS use the PI version

its suited for ROhS (like the wii)

and for those interested. i would buy them online. u can get the 8p 8 version damm cheap..

joedodgy - watch out for my tut soon. i took ur ideas on board and spent all day at work today going over it and looking at different ideas..

i used the double ended d25 case , fits in my zif 28pin socket perfect. very quick and easy to program.
i also brought a dremel like tool to make it easy. and some pref board.. IF anyone is interested. my next big project that im working on is a xmas light controller (512 channels, custom made solid state 8amp relays , all with jaycar part numbers). email me.. [email protected]

a 28pin ziff socket is cheap when u work there. (for my programmer)

IF u are unsure or dont have a credit card etc. Jaycar is a place u can visit and get EVERYTHING U NEED for this mod in 10 mins..
(u wont get much change from a $50 but)

U are all more then welcome to email me with questions etc. I can only provide basic advice.. eg. i did it this way , buy this cat no from jaycar. thats all..

[email protected] , please put chiip advice in the subject , or ill just delete them

Ok now i'm a bit confused. I just ordered the PU chip. should I change it to the PI chip? Will the PU not work or harm my Wii?

 

[Perplexer]

i would ALWAYS use the PI version
its suited for ROhS (like the wii)

There is NO NEED to use the PI version, unless you like spending more money than you have to.

So it's RoHS complant, big deal... you negate that the moment you use lead-based solder in your install anyway!

anitabill: you're just fine with the PU version

 

[nloding]

I went with the PI version, everything on the Chiip parts list, exactly as listed (prior to changing the recommendation) ... I ordered enough for two Chiips (in case I mess something up or whatever) ... I didn't order the DB25 connector/enclosure as I have an old cable laying around. Including shipping, cost me $14 (plus some change). That's two Chiip's ... I ordered from Futurlec.com

I am gonna try out WiiFree's solution too, and the Wiip ... cheap, DIY ... that's what I like in mods! So that's another ... geez ... $20 in parts!

 

[anitabill]

i would ALWAYS use the PI version
its suited for ROhS (like the wii)
There is NO NEED to use the PI version, unless you like spending more money than you have to.

So it's RoHS complant, big deal... you negate that the moment you use lead-based solder in your install anyway!

anitabill: you're just fine with the PU version

Thank you kindly.

The Futurlec.com only has email support, that would have been a pain to change.