I mean the one on the switch https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Ninten...nsor-Latch-Right-OEM-/173122709652?nav=SEARCH
Definitely works, i made my jig with one. I removed the little foam padding bridged the pin 10 pad with pin 1 ground and trimmed the excess ribbon cable.
That's what I use as mine, and I feel it's safer to use than anything else because it won't wear out the pins like a paperclip will.
D
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If you're in the UK, this is where I got mine I believe.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/For-Nintendo...57.m4084.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xjoycon+r.TRS0
https://m.ebay.com/itm/For-Nintendo...57.m4084.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xjoycon+r.TRS0
It's the same listing you posted.
So basically you want to set it up with a modded rail so it always boots into RCM?
It's definitely preferable to auto RCM IMHO but wouldn't bridging points on it stop a joycon from working?
uhm no,all I want is to solder together pin 9 and 10,insert rail(without the rest of the joycon) get to rcm and boot cfw. I do use autorcm but I'm thinking of ditching it since I'm always paranoid it's not off properly or that I just want to play a legit game without having to pull out cables just to boot a legit game.
So do you want to replace the rail on the console or the one on the controller?
Both parts are cheap and easy to find but they're different. IMHO modding the controller makes more sense because then you could boot ofw just by detaching that joycon.
If you're plan is just to buy a rail and use that as a jig though then that sounds like a good idea to me.
Last edited by BloodRose,
You can make replacement rail a jig. This is my jig and injector 2 in 1.
Jig from modded rail, pin 1 connected to pin 10
Injector by Trinket M0 powered by a super cap
The supercap can be charged from the rail. If you connect pin 3 to pin 5, Switch will output 5V on pin 4.
Jig from modded rail, pin 1 connected to pin 10
Injector by Trinket M0 powered by a super cap
The supercap can be charged from the rail. If you connect pin 3 to pin 5, Switch will output 5V on pin 4.
Attachments
Tinfoil? No, you break out the soldering iron, some solder and you bridge that sucker. Use a small wire if you're worried about clearing the distance from pad 10 to pad 1, 2, or 7.
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